How can i separate my rotor from hub? Looks like its all one piece need help!

[Quinn_Hanifan]

I’ve recently decided to re do my brakes on my 1978 C20, and ive got new rotors for the front but im not sure if i need to get a new hub or if i can get the rotor off this one

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Radiohead]

I thought the c20 had one piece hub/rotor assemblies? I could be wrong, haven't got that far on mine yet. If not, you have to punch all the studs out to separate the hub from the rotor, kinda like the rear drums IIRC.

Or are those threaded holes a place to push against the hub?

Am I right fellas?

 

[Quinn_Hanifan]

Thats what ive been thinking, sucks I already bought rotors. Silly me

 

[AuroraGirl]

The studs have to be pressed out and then you have to likely separate whats left from rust/adhesive type wear, then once it is youd have to clean it up, put the hub to the new rotor, and press studs

You cant do it like you can with stud replacement where you use a few lug nuts, you need a press

 

[AuroraGirl]

If you have any wear to your spindle or you plan to use new bearings, id Just get new hubs/rotors personally. But if you reuse bearings or have no wear to your spindle, then pressing would be economical since you have the rotors, just ask a shop to do it quick

 

[bucket]

What rotors did you buy? Sounds like you bought rotors for a 4x4. 2wd trucks have a 1-piece rotor/hub.

 

[Quinn_Hanifan]

What rotors did you buy? Sounds like you bought rotors for a 4x4. 2wd trucks have a 1-piece rotor/hub.

New rotors
Link^

 

[Quinn_Hanifan]

Why would they be different? Not doubting, just curious.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Why would they be different? Not doubting, just curious.

4x4 have larger centers because an axle shaft has to poke through while a 4x2 has to handle less weight on the front and has no axle shaft, just a spindle to support the bearings and thus the hub /rotor itself.

 

[Radiohead]

The studs have to be pressed out and then you have to likely separate whats left from rust/adhesive type wear, then once it is youd have to clean it up, put the hub to the new rotor, and press studs

You cant do it like you can with stud replacement where you use a few lug nuts, you need a press

Could use an air chisel with a mushroom head bit. Probably how I would do it just cuz I'm lazy like that. I'm sure that's how changing the drums will play out.

But here's what I find. This is Rock, but it has the picture. One piece unit.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[bucket]

New rotors
Link^

Looks like they sent you the wrong kit. The application list in the description is correct for what you need. Imho, it's always a crap shoot buying automotive parts on Amazon.

 

[bucket]

Older trucks have completely different front suspensions between 2wd and 4x4. It's not at all like most modern trucks with IFS and unit bearings, where the only difference is whether or not the unit bearing has an axle shaft poking through it.

 

[Grit dog]

Confirmed yes those look like 4wd rotors.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Older trucks have completely different front suspensions between 2wd and 4x4. It's not at all like most modern trucks with IFS and unit bearings, where the only difference is whether or not the unit bearing has an axle shaft poking through it.

only recent advances allow those bearings to go without a spindle of some kind, or shaft, which applies preload on the bearings. The OEM ones without shafts as 2wd are new age design stuff!

 

[Turbo4whl]

The OEM ones without shafts as 2wd are new age design stuff!

Yes, they are cheap junk too. My 2 cents: I know it's hard to find someone to resurface those rotors. Clean and inspect your bearings and races. Pack the bearings with quality grease. New grease seal and put those rotor/hubs back on and run them. Burnish the new brake pads, truck will stop fine!