Here's a dare for you NP205 connoisseurs...

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nvrenuf

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Gotcha, I skimmed and didn’t look at the pics.

Should you be checking the end play with the yoke installed? The yoke pulls tight against the bearing which is held tight by the external lock ring, once the yoke is tight the assembly shouldn’t be able to move.

Without the yoke isn’t the shaft loose (as in unassembled)?
 

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NP & not an issue. We'll joke some but we're not fighting. I've had an NP205 that the thrust washer was missing from the front output & caused severe leaks & play, but none on the rear.
 

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There's a shoulder on the shaft. From there is the speedo gear ( in my case a steel reluctor ring for the vss ) and then the base of the yoke (new). With the yoke tightened down, the whole assembly moves in/out over an 1/8th inch. The output shaft slides on the inner race of the ball bearing. With it all the way in, the bearing c-clip is tight against the case but there's nothing holding it from moving outward. There's enough movement that it creates slop in the CV joint which I believe is causing my vibration in the driveline.
 

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NP & not an issue. We'll joke some but we're not fighting. I've had an NP205 that the thrust washer was missing from the front output & caused severe leaks & play, but none on the rear.
It's an issue with my CV. It's not drivable over 60 mph. Pretty sure GM didn't sell them that way back in the day. I've pulled the rear shaft twice and can drive on the front shaft only at 80 mph with zero issue.
 

nvrenuf

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Have you corrected the rear pinion angle yet?
 

SquareRoot

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If I pull the rear shaft, lock the hubs and engage the front output, I can run it up to 80 mph with zero vibration. This fact convinces me the issue is not with the transmission, clutch or tires. It should also rule out any issue with the T-case when the power is flowing thru the front output. Only thing left is the T-case when power is going thru the rear output or the driveshaft balance or angle. Again the shaft is brand new with all new Spicer 1350 components and balanced.
 

nvrenuf

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Yes and it didn't make a difference.

I saw Friday’s post where you pulled the 3 degree shim but I didn’t see where you pointed the pinion at the driveshaft, this was the final result?
 

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It's an issue with my CV. It's not drivable over 60 mph. Pretty sure GM didn't sell them that way back in the day. I've pulled the rear shaft twice and can drive on the front shaft only at 80 mph with zero issue.
I meant an issue between us, as people. I get the mechanical issue & that's why I mentioned the thrust washer on the front output. 1/8th inch play is an awful lot. I know the bearing has a groove for the lock ring so it won't go but so far. Is this a fixed or slip rear output NP205?
 

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I saw Friday’s post where you pulled the 3 degree shim but I didn’t see where you pointed the pinion at the driveshaft, this was the final result?
It's actually 2.5 degrees lower than driveshaft angle. Basically back to stock where it worked fine with the u-jount setup. Everything I read says that's correct at static and will zero out under load.
 

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I meant an issue between us, as people. I get the mechanical issue & that's why I mentioned the thrust washer on the front output. 1/8th inch play is an awful lot. I know the bearing has a groove for the lock ring so it won't go but so far. Is this a fixed or slip rear output NP205?
Fixed.
 

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calredneck

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So what did you do flip the drive line or what?
 

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Update. Pulled the rear housing tonight. The investigation begins! Well, I expect I'll get flamed for saying this but, the design on the rear housing regarding end play is about the most stupid thing I've ever seen! The protrusion that's part of the case rubs against the side of the low gear. It also collects and directs oil to the rear bearing. So the more this point wears over time the bigger the end play becomes. I don't see any way to correct that short of buying a new rear housing and hoping it's better. Seems like a gamble. What really pisses me off is I spent a good amount of $$$ to have ORD machine the housing for the VSS.
Second point: The shoulders on the output shaft locates the speedo gear, rear bearing and yoke. Doesn't matter how tight you get it, it's a set distance. If the sun of all those pieces is greater than the depth of the rear housing.....that's your end play. Again, maybe a new shaft is better but it's a gamble.
The only way I see to fix this is by making a metal shim that locates between the snap ring on the rear bearing and the housing. Gonna think about this for a bit. Im not wanting to keep throwing $$$ at this hoping for lucky break.
 

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SquareRoot

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