Headlights go on and off

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82sbshortbed

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Well now I got 2 more problems I found at break. Small radiator leak.

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When I removed the cap it's now brown and Kind a foamy. It's not slick or smell like oil in there. Smells rusty. Hopefully a good flush and bar leak will fix it. I was thinking of getting a new radiator with electric fans. We'll see.

Knew I shouldn't have drive it in but, just really wanted to. Lol

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AuroraGirl

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Well now I got 2 more problems I found at break. Small radiator leak.

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When I removed the cap it's now brown and Kind a foamy. It's not slick or smell like oil in there. Smells rusty. Hopefully a good flush and bar leak will fix it. I was thinking of getting a new radiator with electric fans. We'll see.

Knew I shouldn't have drive it in but, just really wanted to. Lol

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rustyyy
 

mtnmankev

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If you add a can of Barr's leak to try and stop the leak, be prepared to replace your heater core as it will get plugged up.
Ask me how I know, the PO of my truck used it to try and stop a leak.
Cost me money and a lot of extra work.
 

82sbshortbed

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That's good to know. I'm really thinking about getting a new one with electric fans since my shroud don't fit after the BBC swap.
 

mtnmankev

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I have found that chemical additives RARELY do what they are supposed to, and often cause unwanted side effects.
Stop leaks MIGHT plug a leak, but they also plug small orifices and passageways that fluid needs to travel through.
As my auto shop teacher would preach, a chemical additive cannot make up for mechanical wear (simple physics).
The only two chemical additives I will use are fuel system cleaners for crudded up fuel systems or lightly fouled spark plugs, and zinc for the oil.
 

82sbshortbed

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The floor switch isn't hooked up is it? Guessing the tilt wheel and the lights came together.

Yesir they did come like that. No floor switch it's on the tilt wheel. Seats, belts, center console and grille all off a burb.
 

82sbshortbed

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Ok, so the ride home was much better. Moving down the road at 180 to 185. In town 190 to 200. Think the fan clutch is wore out too. Because at idle it looks to be turning to slow and has no shroud.

It ran bad and sputtered one time about half way home while just crusing at about 2000 rpm. When I say studder it's like it won't take throttle and takes a while to speed up. So it might be electoral. It ran like that for about a mile or so at 2k rpm but sounding bad then cleared up and ran normal after that. Idled when stopped and i made it home fine.

Here's the stumble I talk about in this video I made last weekend. Best way y'all can hear it and maybe get a better idea of what I'm saying.

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Poppy 87

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Doug, sounds like a ground issue. Big block and small block can use the same distributor. Good luck
 

82sbshortbed

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Haven't run a full tank through it yet. About 10 gal run thru it. I've got a filter before the pump and one before the carb so I don't think trash is getting in it. Found a lot of rusty ground connections. Loose wires to the headlights.

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Missing the plugs for the lights. Po soldered the wires on to lights.

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2 loose wires on drivers side. Both seem to be the same color. Orange or yellow.

I hate this **** but, I'm gonna do it anyway. I'm c leaning up all grounds to lights and battery. I bought new battery cables and an extra ground wire to go from motor to frame. Wanted a braided one but this one will do.

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Gonna go get 4 new head lights and plugs for them tomorrow if they have the plastic plus for the lights.
 

82sbshortbed

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Funny thing is I just passed inspection and here's high and low beams. Lol

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I really don't know which is which. I thought all 4 were high beam.
 

Goldie Driver

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Funny thing is I just passed inspection and here's high and low beams. Lol

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I really don't know which is which. I thought all 4 were high beam.

I believe the inboard ones are the high beams.
 

AuroraGirl

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I have found that chemical additives RARELY do what they are supposed to, and often cause unwanted side effects.
Stop leaks MIGHT plug a leak, but they also plug small orifices and passageways that fluid needs to travel through.
As my auto shop teacher would preach, a chemical additive cannot make up for mechanical wear (simple physics).
The only two chemical additives I will use are fuel system cleaners for crudded up fuel systems or lightly fouled spark plugs, and zinc for the oil.
I can test to the flush... I used it in a radiator that was aluminum on my car and wow it ate the buildup of corrosion on it.. and it came out as a liquid! I have no idea what it does to old rads, but i imagine it would be effective. sure, if you got a bad head gasket you could start burning but that was goonna happen anyway if that is what set it over the edge.
 

gotyourgoat

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c10
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smokin' 305
Haven't run a full tank through it yet. About 10 gal run thru it. I've got a filter before the pump and one before the carb so I don't think trash is getting in it. Found a lot of rusty ground connections. Loose wires to the headlights.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


Missing the plugs for the lights. Po soldered the wires on to lights.

You must be registered for see images attach


2 loose wires on drivers side. Both seem to be the same color. Orange or yellow.

I hate this **** but, I'm gonna do it anyway. I'm c leaning up all grounds to lights and battery. I bought new battery cables and an extra ground wire to go from motor to frame. Wanted a braided one but this one will do.

You must be registered for see images attach


Gonna go get 4 new head lights and plugs for them tomorrow if they have the plastic plus for the lights.
'I hate this **** but I'm going to do it anyway' hahaha :happy175:
Looks like a hasty wiring job is the root of the headlights winking.


Yep when on high all 4 should be shining!:cheers:
From the factory?
 

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