Ahh... I actually haven't checked out any of the blue tinted bulbs for many years, so have only speculated on their actual performance for the last 15 years or so. The tinting is a subtractive process, so it always takes light away... how much it subtracts is down to how deeply the bulb envelope is tinted... but it's always much more than the yellow tint, as a halogen beam produces much more light in the red-orange-yellow (what blue glass filters out) range than it does in green-blue-violet (what yellow glass filters out). Being that they were outperforming stock bulbs, they must have been driving those pretty damn hard (hence the very sh¡tty life). Just out of curiosity, how long were you getting out of those Silvertars in the Olds? If you were able to get the same Silverstar bulb without the blue tint, you'd have been really impressed.
For whatever it's worth, I wouldn't go trying to scrape the blue coating off a halogen bulb, though I've heard of people successfully doing it before (though some bulbs actually have the glass itself tinted instead of a coating), but after having a (burned out with a partially melted envelope) 575 watt theater projector bulb explode in my face, I've been a lot more careful with halogen bulbs, which I later found out are pressurized to about 100psi. Had quartz glass shrapnel stuck in my forearm, and it also hit my forehead and one cheek... fortunately missed my eyeballs (I wear safety glasses now).
The Silverstars were great for vision but ****** for bulb life. Hours... I really don't know but I couldn't get though a year. 6 - 9 months was probably the average life. I always assumed the gas was tinted, but I wouldn't try getting off any tinting. Even a little 1157 taillight bulb will make an impressive sound when dropped on concrete. Now I just run the brightest Phillips in everything, and I've been happy with that.
So tonight's report on the headlights. I got them adjusted properly earlier in the day but had a power outage at the farm so I had to run straight there after work, and then made my run north, which requires me driving that before mentioned curvy road both directions in the dark, in heavy rain. So no time for fog light install. I can firmly say the light is much, much better, but yes I can see the fogs being useful on the twists and turns at least. Also got the replacement +50 headlights from hella. My thoughts is they are fine. No tinted glass but seems to be a little whiter light than the regular bulbs. Probably won't buy them again, but I'll run them until they burn out.
@DoubleDingo I want to see better but not blind other drivers, I completely agree with that! One of the many reasons I didn't even consider LEDs. The hella kit has a much, much better light spread, and firm cut off line. Unlike the sealed beams we are use to where the bright part of the beam shines out and then whatever is left in the peripheral just blobs out everywhere the low beams on these hella lights with the H4 it's brighter where the headlights are aimed but there is almost like a hard cut off of light on the low beam so the light is nice and bright, and wider than the sealed beam, but does not go any higher than you aim them. That's the best way I can explain it. I'm also going to say pictures don't do it justice but here are some.
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Above: This picture is taken in pretty heavy rain, heavy enough you can make out the beam of the lights a little bit, but plenty of it is hitting the road for good visibility.
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Above: At the farm, the truck is facing down hill so you don't get the full spread of light but you can see the brightness well.
Below: head shot with the lights on
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@77 K20 My headlight switch gets considerably hotter with 55W lows, vs the 35w seal beams, so for at least that reason I'll be happy to get the relay kit installed.
