got a square body!!!!!!!! s10

[Swims350]

just an update on this bad vibration....

I first found out the new distributor cap had a couple towers that would wiggle, and I'm pretty sure they should not, yanked it found a couple of them had black marks on the flat terminals tabs inside the cap.

I changed it seemed better. Tried it again after hooking upp the driveshaft flexplate to converter etc. Still same vibration seemed abit better.

carb tuning didn't go so well, kept not making much change to vacuum turning the idle mixture screws.

Checked timing, it was WAY advanced. I never touched it from the time got it. I mean by way off, with it running at idle in park the timing tab on this one is at 12 o clock type right in middle of the timing cover. Well my first though was blancer slipped, because the thing at idle was like 2 inches past the furtherest mark on the tab towards the pass. side, WAY WAY advanced. I checked the motor, pulled plug bumper it around until it blew my rag out, checked it, sure enough balancer was reading right, so I had backed the timing back down to nroaml specs, around 8 degrees advance at idle. still skaes, tried carb again no real change or luck, at one point it started wanting the idle mix screws completely screwed in, which is the leantest mosr setting on the edelbrock carb, it's a 600cfm manual choke wired open, vac. sec.

Checked plugs again because before they were lean, very clean not black crap, this time they were completely black. So I began checking the distributor out more, turns out vac. adv. doesn't do ****. So today I swapped distributors. When I removed th eold one I found the vac. adv. stuck in between, it was right in the middle and would not move. the new one works great.

Well she liked it, sounds much better, revs alot faster, still shakes in gear. Carb still wants to be fully shut off on the mixture screws, it will idle up and smooth and just going like 1 turn out she drops idle starts to stumbe like or run rough.

So now I'm back to carb issues LOL FML

Now aother question for our trans guy @HotRodPC

I have the lil gear holder for the speedo removed from the trans, and at one point I had the driveshaft out, it's a th350 short shaft non lockup numbers matching to the 79 camaro. Ok with the shaft out and the speedo driven gear holder removed, running the truck in gear, which is sitting downhill in the back end, on stands, no fluid leaks out WTF is up with that? I checked fluid in gear same spot idling it's on add. pt. So I know I ned to add some but does tat sound like th epumps not working fully? I mean should it not be loosing fluid with the shaft gone or the speedo gear holder out? We could tell the truck was down on power and it has a b&m shift kit installed in the stage 2 formation with the stacked plates and the 2 middle holes drilled in the plate per the instructions, nothing else changed. Well when driving it does exactly like my monte carlo with that kit and that th350, going easy the monte carlo would go from 1st to 2nd and right into 3rd, like no time at all in 2nd, well the monte carlo the harder you were on the gas then the more it would let 2nd run, if you were on it hard it'd hold second out and bang into third and bark tires. Car had 342's out back. this truck has 4.10's and even doing a burnout no brake torque but pedal to the metal, it shifters from 1st into second and right into third no time spent in second so it makes me think maybe the pump is failing not putting out enough pressure.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Make sure you got a good fuel filter on your fuel line, when the idle air circuit clogs on edelbrocks they show all the signs you mention. You can remove the idle air screws and springs and put compressed air on the ports to unclog them.

 

[Swims350]

Make sure you got a good fuel filter on your fuel line, when the idle air circuit clogs on edelbrocks they show all the signs you mention. You can remove the idle air screws and springs and put compressed air on the ports to unclog them.

I'm glad you chimed in, that's exactly what happened. I went out and tried it, since they would not adjust, removed, air pressured em, got one to work, th eother nothing still. It looks like the idle circuit is plugged up. I've got a filter on it in line back at the tank, along with the in tank sock it's all new, line and all, but looks like something got thru it and is now in the carb or dirt, since it won't adjust

Now I guess I get to remove the carb so I can see it better, and take the top off to clean and check it.

 

[crazy4offroad]

You can take the 2 little covers off the metering rods and pull them out, and if you got a little tubing that will go on your air gun put pressure on those primaries to blow them out. If you have rubber fuel lines the ethanol is eating it up and little bits are going in the carb. You can probably take the fuel line off the carb inlet, take a straightened-out coat hanger and run it back in there and pull out a bunch of rubber debris. I had to convert all my rubber lines to neoprene. Get another filter up there close to the inlet, something like an ac delco or wix, not those cheapies.

 

[Swims350]

yep she was dirty pulled it off took off the top and it had crap all in it again.

now I need carb cleaner, and another filter with some line and rerun my fuel lines to be able to put a filter right near the inlet of the carb along with all th eother crap that's already there

 

[Swims350]

uuuugggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm done with this sombitch. I'm going to jerk the drivetrain out and start on the big truck push this outside.

Toe the carb down cleaned it all put it back on with new good filters, still won't adjust the mixture as it should. It still shakes bad and yes I know it could be because of the carb not tuned right but I'm worried it's transmission related torque converter or something. I've got no cash to put into it and just wasted $75 getting it legal to drive, now it looks like to save $40 a month on insurance I'm gonna have to drop insurance to have a lil bit of cash to work with. Oh and not to mention the $50 I spent on a battery too. Junk the whole MFING thing as is or rebuild everything in it motor and get trans redone to be sure it's right which might happen 20 years from now.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Screw the air screws all the way in (not tight, just till they stop) then out 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 turns. That's a good place to start. You got your timing dialed down but it might need 12 degrees instead of 8. Might want to check the plugs and make sure they're burning clean.

 

[Swims350]

they weren't they were black, not wet but black and smelled of fuel.

that's why it liked running with them mixture screws all the way in. I had it set around 3 turns out before and tweaked em down to around 2, then found out all the rest, and now this.

I think my ******* might have forgot to tighten down the carb base screws, I put i ton last night, or this morning one early, then came in for a bit to cool down and then had to re route all my fuel lines from pump to carb to make room for another filter. I think along the way I forgot about the base screws, I'll check them tomorrow and re try

 

[Swims350]

yep its junk, tightened carb bolts nothing, removing the ims and cleaned them again did nothing again, this SOB is plugged up or just won't trim it down enough to run right. This is a 600 cfm carb I'd think it'd be good enough ran em on 305's and done fine but not this one.

I'm done, it's down to either tear the motor down and check the cam and lifters, change intakes and then try it, or find another carb first to try.

I need to remove the distrubor and move it a tooth anyways, plus doing so the first time tore the gasket and it leaks oil back there now, so those need fixed.

 

[Swims350]

oh and I sprayed everything with carb cleaner running, no change even unhooking the cap on the full vacuum port on front doesn't change idle. Sometimes it'll whistle when I unhook that sometimes it won't. I sprayed the intake sides the carb base and the adapter base as well as the vacuum hoses to try and check for leaks, found nothing no change

 

[Swims350]

she's junk, caught on fire, gonna call insurance and cancel it and most likely turn in the tags.

waste of $75 getting it legal, not gonna keep wasting $40 a month on insurance.

Now I have to try and snake around to get the wiring out from underhood to check it out and replace/repair what's damaged, or pull the motor out and do it. Plus get a new carb, not even gonna try and get a used one to rebuild or take chance on.

I may tear the whole thing down or build something else for it.

I swear I'm still thinking about pushing it outside and start on the big truck

 

[crazy4offroad]

Man that sux. If you got something you can transfer the license plate to, you might keep from losing money on that. Black plugs meant it was running rich which is the sign of stopped up idle circuit. Tightening the idle air screws down and not hearing any draw-down in idle is more proof the idle circuit is stopped up. Wish you weren't so far down the G, I'd help you **** with it.

 

[Swims350]

yea I know it was plugged up but removing the carb and cleaning it all made no difference, and then reinstalling, running no adjustment, same crap, removed, checked no dirt, but still no work.

I wanna know how it caught fire with no backfire, something caused a spark somewhere, could be my whole miss, a plug wire or something. it wasn't hot, it didn't miss, it cranked over fired up, was running, then poof. So i shut it down and beat on it with a rag with no luck, had to get the hose. I didn't down the motor, it never even came from up top of the carb, only down the pass. side on the intake. It has an egr block off plate and one of those heat riser or hot air choke plates, makes me wonder if that causes it to light

 

[Honky Kong jr]

yea I know it was plugged up but removing the carb and cleaning it all made no difference, and then reinstalling, running no adjustment, same crap, removed, checked no dirt, but still no work.

I wanna know how it caught fire with no backfire, something caused a spark somewhere, could be my whole miss, a plug wire or something. it wasn't hot, it didn't miss, it cranked over fired up, was running, then poof. So i shut it down and beat on it with a rag with no luck, had to get the hose. I didn't down the motor, it never even came from up top of the carb, only down the pass. side on the intake. It has an egr block off plate and one of those heat riser or hot air choke plates, makes me wonder if that causes it to light

Is it electric choke?

 

[Swims350]

no manual chokle vac. secondaries. No wires run down that side either my alternator wires run along side my oil pan and up the front of the block to the alt.