Fuel Hose OK ?

[TotalyHucked]

The problem with a pre bent tube is that I have a '95 C1500 350.
that truck did not come with a carb nor mechanical FP.
But it has all serpentine brackets/accessories.
So.............

Just get some hard line and a bender kit and make one

 

[CountKrunk]

Tagging along, i have a leaky trans cooler. Leaking where it attached to the rad.

Plan is to use a wee bit of rubber line to connect up a new line for plugging into the rad. Flare the ends to extra make sure the rubber line doesnt come off. Thoughts?

 

[ali_c20]

Rubber line for atf cooling is ok, many of the universal line kits use hoses. You have to use a hose rated for atf.

 

[Buck69]

I've seen cars catch fire from a pin hole in a rubber fuel hose,more than once. Bend up a new hardline with a different route if you have to. Probably the same route you planed for your rubber,if you have to use rubber use very short pieces to connect your hardline. There's a reason gm used hardline and there's a reason Nascar and nhra limit how much rubber fuel hose can be on the car total. They don't care if it's new or not or how it's rated.

Doing the same as op with a tbi block with carb. There is not much clearance behind the aluminum serpentine bracket and the plastic timing chain cover. Going to look into this. The thought of a steel line rubbing/vibrating against the plastic in a blind spot concerns me.
Was considering running a steel line straight back next to distributor, secured to intake and bellhousing stud? Away from all heat anyway.

 

[RanchWelder]

Buck69 the TBI block with a carb runs at 7 psi.
You can use regular fuel line with abrasion resistance and make it work.

Double layers of heat protection or flex fiber casing and a thermal shield over good quality hose is way cheaper than quality race track grade braided lines.
But they look cool.
Use good quality crimp clamps, instead of screw clamps on the hose ends, where they hit barbs or connectors.
The cheapo metal fuel clamps with the nut and bolt style compression have been known to strip or leak.
The good old days of the quality stainless fuel line threaded style circular fuel line clamps are gone.

Anything shiney blue-ish stainless-ish steel is crap pot metal.

You barely get the hose tight and the threads and the clamp have been known to multilate.

Push Lock is great for the 7 psi fuel systems.
Would never use it on the 48 psi system, though.

Anything above 10 psi should be crimped pex style stainless rings, compression fittings, Quick-Connect (with o-rings), or -an fittings, in my humble opinion.

 

[Octane]

I bought a pre-bent fuel line from Summit for $23.Loosened alternator,slid it over out of the way, and line went right where it needed to be.1977 350 K10.

 

[Ricko1966]

Doing the same as op with a tbi block with carb. There is not much clearance behind the aluminum serpentine bracket and the plastic timing chain cover. Going to look into this. The thought of a steel line rubbing/vibrating against the plastic in a blind spot concerns me.
Was considering running a steel line straight back next to distributor, secured to intake and bellhousing stud? Away from all heat anyway.

You don't have to go behind the front brackets you can down the passenger side frame rail then up and come up and over passenger side valve cover with hard line.

 

[Buck69]

Thanks guys. I will update my project with some pics over the weekend so you can see what I'm working with. I am doing a temp install with a marine built engine using an electric fuel pump for temp mock up and break in/testing. Have another 880 roller cam block with mechanical pump for a permanent power plant if happy with the performance.

 

[Ricko1966]

You don't have to go behind the front brackets you can down the passenger side frame rail then up and come up and over passenger side valve cover with hard line.

I wish I thought your post through better,it's late, my brain didn't process it right. Tbi going to carb. You can use your existing lines,get a bypass regulator. Use your existing supply and return lines plumbed to the bypass regulator. Make a hardline from regulator to carb. dial in whatever pressure you need for the carb you use. Use your in tank tbi fuel pump.

 

[RustyPile]

Reread post 8 and you can get the tubing at the parts store, with fittings already on it. As in post 11. Any guesses how many pages we can go Rusty?

Rick, I've posted my advice based on 35 years' experience as a mechanic.. He chose to ignore it. Any more discussion on my part I consider a waste of my time..

 

[Octane]

Tagging along, i have a leaky trans cooler. Leaking where it attached to the rad.

Plan is to use a wee bit of rubber line to connect up a new line for plugging into the rad. Flare the ends to extra make sure the rubber line doesnt come off. Thoughts?

I've done it several times thru the years.I double clamped the ends.No issues

 

[CountKrunk]

Back on subject of fuel line, i noticed today the last 1' or so of fuel line, where it connects to the carb, is rubber.

This was likely done as the fella added a removable filter in front of the carb, that dude rescued this truck from a field.

Anyone have experience with these?

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[AuroraGirl]

Tagging along, i have a leaky trans cooler. Leaking where it attached to the rad.

Plan is to use a wee bit of rubber line to connect up a new line for plugging into the rad. Flare the ends to extra make sure the rubber line doesnt come off. Thoughts?

use fuel injection hose clamps, use the ID of the hose as the OD of the tubing, flare the end on the pipe, dont make a sharp turn, and dont make the sections long.

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use the fuel line clamps NOT worm clamps, and oppose one clamp to the other, and have that all behind the flare. This will prevent it from popping off and from ruining the hose. YOu can repair leaky crimped OEM cooler lines where the barrels/hose leak but the metal isnt rusted out, YOu just flare the end and slip a hose on, clamp opposed.
Make sure to use transmission cooler/power steering hose SAE j1019 hose
I highly recommend using sunsong low pressure hydraulic hose for this job, because its got a tough exterior wrap that helps prevent damage, and prevent kinks/wear/ keep sturdy.

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[Ricko1966]

You can also repair factory crimp lines just by cutting the crimp off, slit the hose 3/4 of an in inch,cut that 3/4 inch off, slide the hose back on the factory fitting, use a fuel injection style hose clamp and your done. Those factory crimped fittings are barbed fittings with a sheet metal crimp ring,same with your shop air hoses. Cut the outter sheath off and you have the fitting you need.

 

[AuroraGirl]

You can also repair factory crimp lines just by cutting the crimp off, slit the hose 3/4 of an in inch,cut that 3/4 inch off, slide the hose back on the factory fitting, use a fuel injection style hose clamp and your done. Those factory crimped fittings are barbed fittings with a sheet metal crimp ring,same with your shop air hoses. Cut the butter sheath off and you have the fitting you need.

I forgot they had that little barb under neath, so what I said minus the extra step.