Frame rot

[Midnightmoon]

A friend purchased a 83 K20 and the frame looked like the surface of the moon like yours. It was Ziebart rust proof coated when new. The coating trapped in moisture and rusted out. The coating eventually fell off.

The frame on my 2007 Ram Cummins was Ziebart coated when new and then every year afterword. It rotted through under the cab and I now have it plated. I would never use Ziebart again.

I've started using Fluid Film the last couple of years, even on my new vehicles. I like what I see with it so far.

 

[Dlefler]

As a disclaimer and due to the abundance of rust free frames id have to agree with the majority and say junk it but ive cleaned up rust jacking similar to that on semi frames that gross 100k without issue. Would definitely have to clean it up to see whats actually going to be left before forming a final opinion

I'm not trying to do a full blown restoration of my truck I just want to get it fixed up and somewhat solid til I can find a good frame and find a place to do the swap. I showed my local welding/ truck fabrication shop some pics and they seemed pretty confident they could help me out. I know it maybe a waste of money to fix this frame but I do not have the capability right now to do a frame swap by myself or the room to do it. Hopefully I can get this one fixed enough to last a couple years til I can do something more drastic like a frame swap.

 

[Juggernaut]

Anything can be fixed; it just depends on if you have the skill level and or want to spend the time and money to fix it. The spring hanger and hanger support are no big deal. LMC has both and they should be replaced. The frame itself is the big problem. From what I can see, it is rusted through at the bottom bend at the spring support. That will need to be fixed and reinforced. The top of the frame where it has rusted and delaminated probably isn't as bad as it looks. You may be able to pull the cross member, clean it up, and reinstall it. If this were my frame, I would use a needle scaler or small ball peen hammer and remove all the heavy, flaking rust and see how thin the metal is getting. Anything that's not solid will need to be replaced and fish plated. If the rest of the frame is as bad as this, it's time to replace it. But if not, I don't see anything that can't be fixed.

 

[Dlefler]

Anything can be fixed; it just depends on if you have the skill level and or want to spend the time and money to fix it. The spring hanger and hanger support are no big deal. LMC has both and they should be replaced. The frame itself is the big problem. From what I can see, it is rusted through at the bottom bend at the spring support. That will need to be fixed and reinforced. The top of the frame where it has rusted and delaminated probably isn't as bad as it looks. You may be able to pull the cross member, clean it up, and reinstall it. If this were my frame, I would use a needle scaler or small ball peen hammer and remove all the heavy, flaking rust and see how thin the metal is getting. Anything that's not solid will need to be replaced and fish plated. If the rest of the frame is as bad as this, it's time to replace it. But if not, I don't see anything that can't be fixed.

The front of the frame is pretty good seems oil leaks kept it clean. The spots that I took pictures of are by far the worst. Im going to have the hangers replaced and the bad metal cut out of the frame and new welded in I'm going to take it to my local welding truck fabrication shop. I'm just want to get a couple more years out of the frame until I can replace it. I know i could find a better frame cheaper than fixing this one but I don't have the room of means to do a frame swap at this time. Hopefully in the near future I will. Thanks for you input it is much appreciated.

 

[Juggernaut]

Save the money and change the brackets yourself. Hammer, chisel, and a good punch are all you need. Get the chisel under the head of the rivet and keep beating till it breaks off. Then just punch it out. Frame bolt kit from LMC is only about $20. Fix it right and seal it up good and you won't have to replace it.

 

[80BrownK10]

I agree. Pull the hangers off go at it with a hammer and angle grinder and wire wheel and see what's left. If you need to weld patches in let them do that if you don't weld or have the stuff. But I agree, think it will need to be done eventually but maybe not today. Once you remove the spring hangers it may still be serviceable and you just just put new hangers on and go after some good rust converter and paint.

 

[RoryH19]

The front of the frame is pretty good seems oil leaks kept it clean. The spots that I took pictures of are by far the worst. Im going to have the hangers replaced and the bad metal cut out of the frame and new welded in I'm going to take it to my local welding truck fabrication shop. I'm just want to get a couple more years out of the frame until I can replace it. I know i could find a better frame cheaper than fixing this one but I don't have the room of means to do a frame swap at this time. Hopefully in the near future I will. Thanks for you input it is much appreciated.

I had to replace the hanger and hanger supports on my 78 k10. It's a bad design. The small space between them fills up easily with dirt and rots them away. My frame had a little scale but nothing like yours.
It takes some effort. Had to use a cutoff wheel and reciprocating saw. Of course a hammer and chisel too. Used grade 8 bolts to assemble since I don't rivet.
Here's my build thread:
https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/78-k10-silverado-build.35206/

 

[Dlefler]

I agree. Pull the hangers off go at it with a hammer and angle grinder and wire wheel and see what's left. If you need to weld patches in let them do that if you don't weld or have the stuff. But I agree, think it will need to be done eventually but maybe not today. Once you remove the spring hangers it may still be serviceable and you just just put new hangers on and go after some good rust converter and paint.

I agree thanks for the input!