Frame Rivet Replacement

[greencountry05]

Getting ready to pick up a spare Suburban frame to do a frame off restoration on my 4x4 Suburban. To take it to the powdercoater & to have it done right I need to take off all the mounts & have a smooth frame (no accessories/body mounts/etc etc). After I take off all of these rivets what is the best method for re-attaching them? Wasn’t sure if it’s gonna be bolts or find some gigantic aftermarket rivets lol. Anyone ever had to do this?

 

[bucket]

Just use quality grade 8 bolts. Make sure to use hardened washers and use the pinch type lock nuts, also hardened.

If you want to go the extra mile, you can drill everything out for 7/16 bolts, one at a time as you are fitting it all together. This eliminates any slop that you might have from using 3/8 bolts in the existing holes. On the other hand, if it's all getting powder coated, the holes may have zero slop due to the coating.

 

[greencountry05]

Thanks Bucket! I think my phone wigged out & posted this topic twice so you may have to delete the other thread. I may go ahead & drill it all out anyway. Definitely something to think about. Recommend lock tite on all them?

 

[Grumpy]

I highly recommend using a reamer to finalize the bore of the holes.

You have inferred this is a project you wish to be done correctly, and I applaud you.

Unless you are replacing with hot rivets, any out of round condition will affect the soundness of the fastener. Remember to SLIGHTLY deburr/chamfer both edges of the holes, as this will reduce the probability of shunts along the edge of the bore.

Your fasteners MUST be of known quality. As much as I know they are horribly expensive, however for the frame fasteners I have only ever used Caterpillar brand or ARP Fasteners - and that is all I have used for the past thirty-plus years. Remember, the frame is the basis for everything you are riding on, and failures there are most often catastrophic.

 

[bucket]

I highly recommend using a reamer to finalize the bore of the holes.

You have inferred this is a project you wish to be done correctly, and I applaud you.

Unless you are replacing with hot rivets, any out of round condition will affect the soundness of the fastener. Remember to SLIGHTLY deburr/chamfer both edges of the holes, as this will reduce the probability of shunts along the edge of the bore.

Your fasteners MUST be of known quality. As much as I know they are horribly expensive, however for the frame fasteners I have only ever used Caterpillar brand or ARP Fasteners - and that is all I have used for the past thirty-plus years. Remember, the frame is the basis for everything you are riding on, and failures there are most often catastrophic.

Shooowee! Caterpillar bolts are $$$. They are indeed quality though!

 

[shiftpro]

Just weld it, eff the bolts.


JOKE ^^^^

 

[SquareRoot]

Just weld it, eff the bolts.


JOKE ^^^^

Agree. No joke.

 

[bucket]

Agree. No joke.

Oh jeez... here comes the structural engineering discussions!

 

[mtnmankev]

Oh jeez... here comes the structural engineering discussions!

At least it won't include clutch start switches, gearshift lockouts, or guardrails.

 

[Grit dog]

I would think if you are going for a “done right” restoration, you would want all the factory looking rivets. And they are undoubtedly strong enough.
And you won’t have any worry about corrosion behind the brackets where they don’t get coated unless it’s already a rust bucket or planning to go bathe it in salt on winter roads. But those cases seem to defeat the purpose of a frame off powder coated frame resto.

 

[bucket]

At least it won't include clutch start switches, gearshift lockouts, or guardrails.

Not yet anyway. Give it time, give it time.

 

[greencountry05]

The frame itself is in good condition & we don’t get much road salt here in Oklahoma. I don’t really care if it doesn’t have that “factory” riveted look. I just want it to be safe & secure when I put it back together. I’ve had my burb for about 8 years now & I just want to preserve it & take good care of it. It also helps to have a nice looking ride. Haven’t had a “hot rod” or a “custom” in many moons. It would be nice to have a cool vehicle again.

 

[Grit dog]

Maybe I don’t understand powder coating then. You can’t have parts attached to each other?

 

[greencountry05]

I have only ever used Caterpillar brand.../

Tell me more. I’ve never worked in the heavy equipment field.

 

[greencountry05]

Maybe I don’t understand powder coating then. You can’t have parts attached to each other?

Yea they can touch. The reason for me taking everything off & then re-attaching later is just for sake of ease on the frame’s finish. If I were to leave the body mounts on I would not get a good coat. Not only would there be metal behind the mount without a coating it would also be difficult to coat in the areas around the mounts because of the goofy angles & tight spaces (faraday cage effect). I do powdercoat & Cerakote work on the side so I can do all the other pieces on my own. I just can’t fit a giant Suburban frame in my oven lol.