Failed PA State Inspection :(

[usar17]

Ok well I finally got around to taking my Truck for it's overdue inspection. As some of you know I'm been piecing it together for months now.

Well they failed both my upper ball joints, Passenger side Tie Rod End....and the Parking Brake.

Well I'm pissed at myself now because i didn't know cutting the brake cable for the 14 Bolt Disc Brake Conversion would go against State Law!

Thoughts on a solution? and how hard are replacing the ball joints? I'm gonna do upper and lower while I'm at it.

 

[89Suburban]

PA is a bitch, I hate it. They always find something.

 

[usar17]

This is what i get for not taking it to my buddy. I can understand the joints, probably better to replace. but the Parking Brake!!! I've never seen that gigged

 

[87sierra]

if they are still original ball joint they are tuff i did my lower ball joints and they took awhile to get them out they are even harder with out the special ball joint press since C claps are not strong enough

 

[animal]

Tops are easy. Grind off 4 factory rivets and the old one comes out. The new one bolts in using the holes where the rivets came out. The lowers you are much better off to go to a local parts store and borrow or rent the tool to remove. You can do it with out the tool but its much harder to do.


Never mind. I am an idiot And just noticed you are 4X4. Ive never done those.

 

[Old77]

Never mind. I am an idiot And just noticed you are 4X4. Ive never done those.

 

[bigcountryguy19]

They are not too hard, first pull tire, and then caliper,and steering tie rod. then take your lockout hub off and removed the wheel bearing nuts. After that pull the rotor and bearings off, then unbolt your spindle from the knuckle and remove it. Then loosen the nuts on your ball joints top and bottom. You may have to pull axleshaft from housing, not too shure, i pulled mine out cause i was replacing seals also. Then slap the inner c with a hammer on the side of the ball joint stud, should pop loose. Mine did, maybe I just got lucky. When those are loose take nuts off and remove, pull snap rings from ball joints. I used a big 1/2 drive socket and an old extension as a driver and drove the old ball joint from the outer c. After that just put back in in reverse order. The upper ball joint should come with a new accentric for castor camber adjustment, I didn't use mine cause the old ones looked good still and I didn't want to mess with alignment. Then reassemble in reverse order.

 

[yenner]

Thoughts on a solution?

Move.

 

[89Suburban]

 

[HotRodPC]

This is what i get for not taking it to my buddy. I can understand the joints, probably better to replace. but the Parking Brake!!! I've never seen that gigged

I can actually see letting the ball joint go, but not the parking brake. If you've built auto transmission, and see what little piece of steel is holding the whole weight of your truck, you'd understand. Have you ever noticed in a Medium Duty truck that has an Auto Trans, the Gear Selections are R N D 21 of R N D 3 2 1? Notice NO P? The reason for that is so that you do NOT put it in Park and trust it and MUST use a Parking Brake of some sort. A ball joint can rattle it's ass off, but the odds of it breaking are slim. (YES, they can break too).

How do they test the park brake? Is it visual under the truck? In the past, I have gotten by with tieing off one cable, and have the pedal only pull on wheel so it was a 1 rear wheel park brake, not 2. If they just push it down to see if it holds the truck, 1 wheel will work fine.

You're learning Grasshoppa !!! This is why when I pull I rear end I NEVER EVER cheap out to save 5-10 minutes to cut a cable. I take the time and do it right. It's a real PITA to replace those cable, not to mention, not the easiest thing to find and KNOW you have the right one. I'm also the same way about wiring harnesses, I do NOT butcher wiring harnesses UNLESS, I myself am taking a vehicle over the scale and know nooone needs it. If I plan on selling it as a rolling chassis, or it's going to Pull A Part, or I might have some buddies that are going to come over and pick some parts off of it.

It's like this, Phuk my dad and his ******** of, "Stop and Smell the Roses", , But, do always take the extra 5-10 minutes to do **** right. It all comes back in the end one way or another. Maybe not on this project, but maybe on another. Same goes for those stupid little retainers or brackets that you THINK are NOT necessary so you don't reinstall them. REINSTALL THEM !!! They have a purpose or they would not be there in the first place. It may only be a .25 cent part, but if GM used 2 on every vehicle they built for a total of .50 each vehicle, and they built a million vehicles that year, that's a Half a Million Dollars. Now do you think if they could have save a Half a Million dollars they woudl have put that part in if it wasn't necessary???

Best 2 examples of this, is #1, the starter heat shield. It serves a purpose. If it's there, put it back. Next, is the heat shields around the spark plugs. I see guys throw them away all the time. Then wonder they're eating up plug wires. Deeta Fuggin Dee !!!

 

[89Suburban]

PA is the phuckin Cali of the east coast

 

[HotRodPC]

Move.

That's what I'd do. I moved out of Cali in 91. A past bootycall/love almost had me talked into moving back. After some thought, that booty wasn't that damn good !!! Cali !!!

 

[skysurfer]

PA is the phuckin Cali of the east coast

Don't drag Cali into your East Coast mess, we don't have safety inspections.

 

[89Suburban]

Don't drag Cali into your East Coast mess, we don't have safety inspections.

 

[HotRodPC]

Don't drag Cali into your East Coast mess, we don't have safety inspections.

They damn sure have emission inspections that can get very ridiculous.