Trucksareforwork
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2022
- Posts
- 248
- Reaction score
- 480
- Location
- Spartanburg SC
- First Name
- Geoff
- Truck Year
- 1985
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 305
So if you have read my “Nemo” thread you know that I had to move out of my shop in July. That leaves me in a state of flux without shop air or the tools that go with it.
So, because I was bored, I decided to tackle my truck Rusty’s ball joints today, with only an electric grinder and hand tools.
The truck’s ball joints were still stock (1985). And, a prior owner had installed lowering springs. I had made a lot of improvements to the truck (there’s a thread about it), but had assumed the excessive negative camber she had was because of the lowering. I put new (smaller) tires on and figured I had to address the front end or else my tires were going to be mincemeat.
The lowering springs used by the PO were from “Classic Performance” and they were really soft. The truck bottomed a lot and had a nose down attitude. So, I decided to put in some bell tech springs. The bell techs (left) are a thicker spring and so I hoped to get a firmer ride.
Have to admit to a lot of cussing today trying to remove the upper ball joints with only an electric grinder, 6 lb hammer and chisel. That really took it out of me. The lowers were relatively easy, just used a press from Autozone loaner. I had to resort to the torch to get the spindle loose after my pickle forkery was ineffective.
The before looked like this (best shot I could find which was while I was doing some paint correction last year. Don’t Mind the dog). You can see the rake which was bothersome to me. The rear has HD springs and lowering shackles (so 2 in). The front was just saggy.
Here’s the after from today.
It’s a much better truck. What I’m surprised about is what a total change to not only the stance but to the driving experience it has been. The nose is a bit higher, and of course the front end is a lot tighter and stable. I don’t get the occasional clunk when hitting a bump or turning into a driveway.
I’ve done ball joints before but always press in kinds. Those rivets were a pain. If my shop weren’t in boxes I think it would have been quick work with a plasma cutter, but with regular garage tools I beat on those things like a couple of borrowed mules. I eventually won but it took me a good 6 hours from start to finish (with probably an hour each for the upper removal) today.
Well worth the time. A few takeaways:
- heat is your friend
- moog is good stuff still
- cutting all the way through the stock upper head when cutting the rivets is a ok. Just don’t cut the control arm (I did not)
- those classic performance springs were mush.
- when bored try something easier.
So, because I was bored, I decided to tackle my truck Rusty’s ball joints today, with only an electric grinder and hand tools.
The truck’s ball joints were still stock (1985). And, a prior owner had installed lowering springs. I had made a lot of improvements to the truck (there’s a thread about it), but had assumed the excessive negative camber she had was because of the lowering. I put new (smaller) tires on and figured I had to address the front end or else my tires were going to be mincemeat.
The lowering springs used by the PO were from “Classic Performance” and they were really soft. The truck bottomed a lot and had a nose down attitude. So, I decided to put in some bell tech springs. The bell techs (left) are a thicker spring and so I hoped to get a firmer ride.
You must be registered for see images attach
Have to admit to a lot of cussing today trying to remove the upper ball joints with only an electric grinder, 6 lb hammer and chisel. That really took it out of me. The lowers were relatively easy, just used a press from Autozone loaner. I had to resort to the torch to get the spindle loose after my pickle forkery was ineffective.
The before looked like this (best shot I could find which was while I was doing some paint correction last year. Don’t Mind the dog). You can see the rake which was bothersome to me. The rear has HD springs and lowering shackles (so 2 in). The front was just saggy.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here’s the after from today.
You must be registered for see images attach
It’s a much better truck. What I’m surprised about is what a total change to not only the stance but to the driving experience it has been. The nose is a bit higher, and of course the front end is a lot tighter and stable. I don’t get the occasional clunk when hitting a bump or turning into a driveway.
I’ve done ball joints before but always press in kinds. Those rivets were a pain. If my shop weren’t in boxes I think it would have been quick work with a plasma cutter, but with regular garage tools I beat on those things like a couple of borrowed mules. I eventually won but it took me a good 6 hours from start to finish (with probably an hour each for the upper removal) today.
Well worth the time. A few takeaways:
- heat is your friend
- moog is good stuff still
- cutting all the way through the stock upper head when cutting the rivets is a ok. Just don’t cut the control arm (I did not)
- those classic performance springs were mush.
- when bored try something easier.
