ESC need someone that knows more about ESC system than I do

[Bextreme04]

They are around $125 - $150 used on E-bay, I haven't seen one locally.


Yes that would be the style I need but there is no way in heck I'm paying $317.00 for it.

Yeah, I agree $300+ is stupid. I got a 2101 locally for $75 and it is factory powdercoated. My truck didn't have EGR on it from the factory though, so I wasn't worried about it.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Yeah, I agree $300+ is stupid. I got a 2101 locally for $75 and it is factory powdercoated. My truck didn't have EGR on it from the factory though, so I wasn't worried about it.

My plan is to paint it Chevy blue so it matches the rest of the engine. It is very stock looking under my hood and I'd like to keep it looking stockish at least to the casual look. My edelbrock carburetor sits under the factory air cleaner housing and snorkel. It feels like it was yesterday that you could pick up a new edelbrock intake manifold for $100 and a 1406 for $75, but I think I'm showing my age by stating those prices lol.

 

[AuroraGirl]

My plan is to paint it Chevy blue so it matches the rest of the engine. It is very stock looking under my hood and I'd like to keep it looking stockish at least to the casual look. My edelbrock carburetor sits under the factory air cleaner housing and snorkel. It feels like it was yesterday that you could pick up a new edelbrock intake manifold for $100 and a 1406 for $75, but I think I'm showing my age by stating those prices lol.

If you want to go fun color, JD yellow, IH Red, Kubota Orange, Ford Grey... im naming those krylon colors again lol

 

[SirRobyn0]

I eked out about an hour at the end of the day at the shop today to work on getting the knock sensor out of the block. Tried with various sockets and pliers on the sensor. Heated it, tried it, cooled it, ect. Basically pulled out all the stops. The only thing I seceded at was breaking the housing of the sensor off the stud that goes into the block. I then tried again, with heating cooling and trying to grip the stud with various plier and vice grips. No dice. It's fused in and will need to be drilled out.

So when I have a weekend that isn't packed I'll bring drill bit, and a tap home, drain the coolant and go to town on it. I may shift gears and try to get the EGR handled first though.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I eked out about an hour at the end of the day at the shop today to work on getting the knock sensor out of the block. Tried with various sockets and pliers on the sensor. Heated it, tried it, cooled it, ect. Basically pulled out all the stops. The only thing I seceded at was breaking the housing of the sensor off the stud that goes into the block. I then tried again, with heating cooling and trying to grip the stud with various plier and vice grips. No dice. It's fused in and will need to be drilled out.

So when I have a weekend that isn't packed I'll bring drill bit, and a tap home, drain the coolant and go to town on it. I may shift gears and try to get the EGR handled first though.

Where does the knock sensor reside? Passenger head? no room to get a pipe wrench? I know seems odd but if the sensor body is iron and the only thing in the way is a manifold, if its not too much work itself, maybe a new gasket for the exhaust and then access with a pipe wrench

at least avoids getting abrasive shavings in the cooling passages

 

[Turbo4whl]

Where does the knock sensor reside? Passenger head?

On my 1982 it is threaded into the passenger side block drain.

@SirRobyn0 If you drain the coolant, applying heat would work better. Unfortunately the block drain/sensor will make that difficult.

 

[Itali83]

Why can’t it be put in the drivers side coolant plug? Just leave the old one alone before you make a mess of it. Extend the one wire and problem solved

Ben

 

[SirRobyn0]

On my 1982 it is threaded into the passenger side block drain.

@SirRobyn0 If you drain the coolant, applying heat would work better. Unfortunately the block drain/sensor will make that difficult.

Yes, that is where mine is located as well. I suppose once the coolant is drained, I could drill a hole in the sensor base, let the block drain and heat it. Yea, I thought the same thing when I was at work, all that coolant in there makes it about impossible to really heat that area up.

Why can’t it be put in the drivers side coolant plug? Just leave the old one alone before you make a mess of it. Extend the one wire and problem solved

Ben

I have no idea. Why couldn't it? I have to wonder if the passenger side of the engine is more prone to pinging, and maybe they knew that at the factory, IDK just speculating. Well I might just pull the D/S drain and screw it in there, lengthen the wire and see how it behaves.

What do the rest of you guys think about that idea?

 

[AuroraGirl]

Yes, that is where mine is located as well. I suppose once the coolant is drained, I could drill a hole in the sensor base, let the block drain and heat it. Yea, I thought the same thing when I was at work, all that coolant in there makes it about impossible to really heat that area up.


I have no idea. Why couldn't it? I have to wonder if the passenger side of the engine is more prone to pinging, and maybe they knew that at the factory, IDK just speculating. Well I might just pull the D/S drain and screw it in there, lengthen the wire and see how it behaves.

What do the rest of you guys think about that idea?

Well, the only reasoning I can think of is possibly due to coolant direction of flow/ being away from most PS pumps, (distance wise), and maybe firing order related.

LT1 the way to check their knock sensors involved bashing the driver manifold and that engine reverses coolant flow (it also has 2 of them)

But never use any sealants, tapes,on a knock sensor, be sure to torque them properly, and make sure to source one for a 305 like yours as best as can/

basically, I dont know why but GM was very very very keen on the passenger side and then it flipped for the LT1 which could be nothing but hard to say

 

[Turbo4whl]

Why can’t it be put in the drivers side coolant plug? Just leave the old one alone before you make a mess of it. Extend the one wire and problem solved

Ben

The (wire) is actually a coaxial cable. Don't cut it. I believe the sensor sends an RF signal. On my 1982 the cable goes straight to the processor with no other intercepting connections. Or in other words, the cable and processor are one part.

 

[SirRobyn0]

The (wire) is actually a coaxial cable. Don't cut it. I believe the sensor sends an RF signal. On my 1982 the cable goes straight to the processor with no other intercepting connections. Or in other words, the cable and processor are one part.

Well that would kill swapping sides. In thinking about what the connector looks like on the knock sensor I think mine is like that as well.

 

[Ellie Niner]

The (wire) is actually a coaxial cable. Don't cut it. I believe the sensor sends an RF signal. On my 1982 the cable goes straight to the processor with no other intercepting connections. Or in other words, the cable and processor are one part.

You're close. The knock sensor is basically a piezoelectric microphone, which produces a small amount of voltage when it's vibrated... I'm guessing the sensor is probably "tuned" to pick up the range of frequencies and sounds that make up abnormal combustion (detonation). This can be likened to the voodoo involved with oxygen sensors, which produce between 0 and 1 volt on their own, which is monitored by and reacted to by the ECM.

I'm pretty sure that the knock sensor uses conventional wire to transmit its signal, which may be protected by an outer jacket... probably to resist heat? I actually have only seen knock sensors in my peripheral vision... they're there, but I've never had to deal with or replace one. As far as why they're put in the right hand cylinder bank... Probably just GM trying to save 0.45 cents worth of wire because the RH bank is closer to the ESC module located above the glove box. Just my semi-uneducated guess

 

[AuroraGirl]

You're close. The knock sensor is basically a piezoelectric microphone, which produces a small amount of voltage when it's vibrated... I'm guessing the sensor is probably "tuned" to pick up the range of frequencies and sounds that make up abnormal combustion (detonation). This can be likened to the voodoo involved with oxygen sensors, which produce between 0 and 1 volt on their own, which is monitored by and reacted to by the ECM.

I'm pretty sure that the knock sensor uses conventional wire to transmit its signal, which may be protected by an outer jacket... probably to resist heat? I actually have only seen knock sensors in my peripheral vision... they're there, but I've never had to deal with or replace one. As far as why they're put in the right hand cylinder bank... Probably just GM trying to save 0.45 cents worth of wire because the RH bank is closer to the ESC module located above the glove box. Just my semi-uneducated guess

I would think its protected for EMI or other variables but as always another guess lol

 

[Turbo4whl]

I would think its protected for EMI or other variables but as always another guess lol

Yes Taylor, Your young brain is much smarter than my old brain:

Electromagnetic interference (EMI) is unwanted noise or interference in an electrical path or circuit caused by an outside source. It is also known as radio frequency interference. EMI can cause electronics to operate poorly, malfunction or stop working completely. EMI can be caused by natural or human-made sources.

@Ellie Niner
And Tory, I certainly would not remember piezoelectric, but now that you said it...... I read all about the electronic spark control 40 years ago when I bought my '82.

Piezoelectric Effect is the ability of certain materials to generate an electric charge in response to applied mechanical stress. The word Piezoelectric is derived from the Greek piezein, which means to squeeze or press, and piezo, which is Greek for “push”.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Yes Taylor, Your young brain is much smarter than my old brain:

Electromagnetic interference (EMI) is unwanted noise or interference in an electrical path or circuit caused by an outside source. It is also known as radio frequency interference. EMI can cause electronics to operate poorly, malfunction or stop working completely. EMI can be caused by natural or human-made sources.

@Ellie Niner
And Tory, I certainly would not remember piezoelectric, but now that you said it...... I read all about the electronic spark control 40 years ago when I bought my '82.

Piezoelectric Effect is the ability of certain materials to generate an electric charge in response to applied mechanical stress. The word Piezoelectric is derived from the Greek piezein, which means to squeeze or press, and piezo, which is Greek for “push”.

I wasnt trying to imply I was smarter nor do I feel thats the case. Im sorry I came off that way.


Im sorry..


I havent seen knock sensors on anything other than my 3800s

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