ESC need someone that knows more about ESC system than I do

[newguy11]

Thanks guys.

Timing is at 4 deg btc. The engine runs best at this spot and more advance she acts up real bad and any less the power is gone.

Egr functions. When vacuum is applied it opens but. I have to check and see if the engine “responds”

I’m running 93 octane in the north east. I suspect that ethanol may also be contributing. Overall I’m leaning toward compounding problems.

Carbon + over lean + not enough timing coming out under load.

I’ll keep tinkering but unfortunately dollar for dollar a 350 is likely in order

 

[SirRobyn0]

Well sure changing engines would fix it.....

It's not the ethanol. Ethanol is actually very high in octane. If you took your truck and filled it with E85, probably the only drivability problems you'd have is lack of power and hard starting. But the pinging would probably stop. Ethanol is high octane.

Carbon is very possible. over lean, could be. Check that EGR to see if the engine responds.

What are you running for an air cleaner housing? The factory air cleaner housing with tube to grill brings in the cooler outside air which will help with ping as well.

 

[48hd]

JUST SPLICE THE TWO WIRES TOGETHER.........

 

[AuroraGirl]

JUST SPLICE THE TWO WIRES TOGETHER.........

please do tell, what drove you to replyto this dead thread, and what makes you so passionate. There are two wires you say, show us your two wires. Dont be rude or we might show you some wires without insulation on it. take that.l

 

[48hd]

I WILL HAVE TO GO LOOK, BUT LEAVE THE 4 WIRE PLUG UNPLUGGED AND SPLICE A & C TOGETHER ON DIST. SIDE OF HARNESS. EST BYPASS.

 

[SirRobyn0]

JUST SPLICE THE TWO WIRES TOGETHER.........

please do tell, what drove you to replyto this dead thread, and what makes you so passionate. There are two wires you say, show us your two wires. Dont be rude or we might show you some wires without insulation on it. take that.l

HA HA! I'm still hanging around so I'll tell him why this is a bad idea.

I WILL HAVE TO GO LOOK, BUT LEAVE THE 4 WIRE PLUG UNPLUGGED AND SPLICE A & C TOGETHER ON DIST. SIDE OF HARNESS. EST BYPASS.

So what you are suggesting does in fact bypass the ESC module. The problem is that the distributors built for the ESC systems have a much steeper advance curve with the idea that the ESC module pulls the advance down to the maximum that the engine can handle. So basically by splicing those two ESC wires together your going to have the distributor in full advance without the ESC module to pull the advance down to where it doesn't ping. And that knock sensor is way more sensitive than you ear. Bypassing the module like this is a good idea in an emergency situation where the ESC has failed and you need to get home. Bypassing it like this and driving it like that forever is a bad idea. You'll either end up with a motor that pings, or having to retard the base timing to kind of compensate for all the advance in the distributor.

As far as I'm concerned the only right thing to do is to either keep the ESC system functional or swap to a non-ESC distributor.

Oh and some folks will see all caps as yelling so maybe take the cap lock off for your next post.

 

[AuroraGirl]

HA HA! I'm still hanging around so I'll tell him why this is a bad idea.

So what you are suggesting does in fact bypass the ESC module. The problem is that the distributors built for the ESC systems have a much steeper advance curve with the idea that the ESC module pulls the advance down to the maximum that the engine can handle. So basically by splicing those two ESC wires together your going to have the distributor in full advance without the ESC module to pull the advance down to where it doesn't ping. And that knock sensor is way more sensitive than you ear. Bypassing the module like this is a good idea in an emergency situation where the ESC has failed and you need to get home. Bypassing it like this and driving it like that forever is a bad idea. You'll either end up with a motor that pings, or having to retard the base timing to kind of compensate for all the advance in the distributor.

As far as I'm concerned the only right thing to do is to either keep the ESC system functional or swap to a non-ESC distributor.

Oh and some folks will see all caps as yelling so maybe take the cap lock off for your next post.

I was gonna say, I believe your curve is meant for that system

 

[Bextreme04]

HA HA! I'm still hanging around so I'll tell him why this is a bad idea.

So what you are suggesting does in fact bypass the ESC module. The problem is that the distributors built for the ESC systems have a much steeper advance curve with the idea that the ESC module pulls the advance down to the maximum that the engine can handle. So basically by splicing those two ESC wires together your going to have the distributor in full advance without the ESC module to pull the advance down to where it doesn't ping. And that knock sensor is way more sensitive than you ear. Bypassing the module like this is a good idea in an emergency situation where the ESC has failed and you need to get home. Bypassing it like this and driving it like that forever is a bad idea. You'll either end up with a motor that pings, or having to retard the base timing to kind of compensate for all the advance in the distributor.

As far as I'm concerned the only right thing to do is to either keep the ESC system functional or swap to a non-ESC distributor.

Oh and some folks will see all caps as yelling so maybe take the cap lock off for your next post.

The obvious solution here is that if you ever have the ESC system fail, you just need to LS swap it. At 20 mpg, it will pay for itself in about 4 months of daily driving with these gas prices

(joking.... joking..... kinda)

 

[AuroraGirl]

The obvious solution here is that if you ever have the ESC system fail, you just need to LS swap it. At 20 mpg, it will pay for itself in about 4 months of daily driving with these gas prices

(joking.... joking..... kinda)

The Only LS swap I would endorse out of curiosity is an LS4.
If sirrobyn can do that I will give him 5$

 

[Bextreme04]

The Only LS swap I would endorse out of curiosity is an LS4.
If sirrobyn can do that I will give him 5$

Do you mean LT4?

 

[SirRobyn0]

Well I'll never LS swap my truck. A carbed vortec.... Maybe, probably not though. Would I like better gas mileage, well yes of course I would, especially these days. Now I'm looking at parking the square more and driving other slightly more fuel efficient vehicles. I'm also looking about doing other things like carb work, and dist work to hopefully help out my mileage on the square, but I just want to keep old school old school, but that's me. I live in the world of modern cars everyday at the shop and even though the old carbed rigs have disadvantages, I enjoy the simplicity of the old square.

@AuroraGirl $5 huh wow I thought you'd offer $2 lol.

Maybe we can get SquareRoot to give his opinion on the LS swap? Or Palandin to tell us which carb to use?

LOL just to be clear all of that is meant in fun and I am not upset at all.

 

[Catbox]

Not that you asked, but I am volunteering some information for ya.
If you want to get away from the ESC system, but still want more control, look at this doo dad.

Enter the CB Performance Black Box.
While it is mainly advertised for air cooled VW's, it will operate a V8 with no problems. Read the description on the page and watch the video they provide.

CB Performance Black Box Programmable Timing Control Module

Turns your old school mechanical advance distributor into a high-powered programmable ignition with CB Performance's new Black Box Programmable Timing Control Module!

www.cbperformance.com

It is super simple to use and install.
My kid @Maxwellvis has installed one on our VW bug and it works like a champ.

Just another option for you to peruse...

 

[SirRobyn0]

Not that you asked, but I am volunteering some information for ya.
If you want to get away from the ESC system, but still want more control, look at this doo dad.

Enter the CB Performance Black Box.
While it is mainly advertised for air cooled VW's, it will operate a V8 with no problems. Read the description on the page and watch the video they provide.

CB Performance Black Box Programmable Timing Control Module

Turns your old school mechanical advance distributor into a high-powered programmable ignition with CB Performance's new Black Box Programmable Timing Control Module!

www.cbperformance.com

It is super simple to use and install.
My kid @Maxwellvis has installed one on our VW bug and it works like a champ.

Just another option for you to peruse...

No, no one asked, but I'm glad you shared. I'm seriously interested in this and will do some more research on it this evening. I don't like spending money, but it does look pretty attractive. The only thing that would be nice is if it ran a knock sensor.

This is and has been the catch 22 for me on the ESC system. I either need to rebuild a system with a lot of obsolete parts in it, or go to a standard HEI distributor, of which I have one waiting to be installed, but with that standard HEI distributor comes a much tamer advance curve, which generally results in lack of power and economy in the 305. So for less cost than attempting to rebuild the ESC system I could run this box.

YES I know I could run an adjustable vac advance can, and change weights and springs to a similar effect, but it looks like the CB box has the ability to provide a much more variable advance curve.

I will think about this thanks!

 

[Bextreme04]

No, no one asked, but I'm glad you shared. I'm seriously interested in this and will do some more research on it this evening. I don't like spending money, but it does look pretty attractive. The only thing that would be nice is if it ran a knock sensor.

This is and has been the catch 22 for me on the ESC system. I either need to rebuild a system with a lot of obsolete parts in it, or go to a standard HEI distributor, of which I have one waiting to be installed, but with that standard HEI distributor comes a much tamer advance curve, which generally results in lack of power and economy in the 305. So for less cost than attempting to rebuild the ESC system I could run this box.

YES I know I could run an adjustable vac advance can, and change weights and springs to a similar effect, but it looks like the CB box has the ability to provide a much more variable advance curve.

I will think about this thanks!

Haha, just messing with you about the LS. That is a pretty cool box. I know MSD has a really cool one that you can fully program in any advance curve you want too, but I think it also doesn't use a knock sensor.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Haha, just messing with you about the LS. That is a pretty cool box. I know MSD has a really cool one that you can fully program in any advance curve you want too, but I think it also doesn't use a knock sensor.

This is actually a really interesting topic and I might start a separate thread on it. I've never been much of a fan of spark boxes. My main reasons I'm not keen on them is cost for perceived little return and one more thing to fail. So for that reason I've learned little about them. Also I had no idea a fully programmable box existed and even without a knock sensor I could see it being working out better than a standard HEI in 305 at least.