Engine Backfire Diagnosis Led to Wiped cam Lobes

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Skweegle89

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I don't understand how these skip white distributors are $40 and everything comparable is at least three times that much.


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350runner

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It's all about marketing bud :) of course you could always go and buy one more expensive like D.U.I.:) honestly that would be my only other choice. But that price tag tho ouch...

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Skweegle89

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No I'm going to buy this one. The lifetime warranty is what sold me. I just wish somebody in town stocked them I so I didn't have to wait on shipping.


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350runner

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I think I got mine in 2 or 3 days :) of course I ordered b4 10 :)

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Skweegle89

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I just got mine ordered. I'm sure with the holidays and crap it will delay shipping a bit, but I have plenty of things to do to the truck while I'm waiting.


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Skweegle89

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Well my dizzy will be here today. How big of a pain are they to swap out?


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350runner

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Life is only as hard as you make it. :) skip the advice of putting the piston @tdc advice :) just note the rotor position when you take the old one out. You well need a long shaft flat head screw driver to turn the oil pump shaft if the dizzy won't seat on the intake manifold. I usually just take enough wires off to get the cap to sit to the side. Timing the ignition is necessary. Right after the install is complete! :)

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350runner

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When you get the new dizzy look at the gear. On the bottom is a notch that rotates the oil pump shaft. That will give you an idea of what and where you need to turn if need be.

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Skweegle89

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85swb "Fancy"

10-4


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350runner

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Remember to leave the vac advance unhooked and capped for now

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Skweegle89

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Yea you said something about having to adjust it after I get everything installed,
So I will hit you up when I get to that point.


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350runner

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Cool deal :)

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DoubleDingo

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Idk where else I could have a leak. I have checked all my lines and all the way around the intake and haven't found one.


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It's possible to have one in the brake system or cruise control system too. The check valve on the booster can leak and most people wouldn't think to look at that, and that is a huge port for vacuum. Also, if you have the old style cruise control it has a bunch of vacuum lines that can leak and they are large lines as well.

When I put my rebuilt carb back on I installed a new line from the tee on the back of the intake manifold to the cruise control transducer. The truck started up fine, idled fine, so I got the carb adjusted, the truck was warm, and I wanted to test drive it. Got in, pressed the brake, and it made a loud hissing sound as the brake pedal slowly went to the floor. I thought the booster went bad so I looked into getting a new one. The next day during lunch, instead of getting a nooner:hump:, I had my girlfriend press the brake with the truck running while I listened under the hood. Nothing, but the pedal went to the floor. Turns out the vacuum line that goes inside the cab from the transducer, besides being old, attaches to a vacuum release valve on the brake pedal and that was leaking when the pedal was pushed down. I disconnected the new vacuum line I ran and plugged it, and the brakes work great, but the carb needed to be readjusted because there was enough of a leak inside the cab that couldn't be heard and caused some issues under the hood.

So tracking down a vacuum leak is far more involved than just checking vacuum lines off the carb for distributor, etc., especially if you have things operated by vacuum like cruise control.
 
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DoubleDingo

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Remember to leave the vac advance unhooked and capped for now

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And every other vacuum port too....
 

Skweegle89

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85swb "Fancy"

It's possible to have one in the brake system or cruise control system too. The check valve on the booster can leak and most people wouldn't think to look at that, and that is a huge port for vacuum. Also, if you have the old style cruise control it has a bunch of vacuum lines that can leak and they are large lines as well.

When I put my rebuilt carb back on I installed a new line from the tee on the back of the intake manifold to the cruise control transducer. The truck started up fine, idled fine, so I got the carb adjusted, the truck was warm, and I wanted to test drive it. Got in, pressed the brake, and it made a loud hissing sound as the brake pedal slowly went to the floor. I thought the booster went bad so I looked into getting a new one. The next day during lunch, instead of getting a nooner, I had my girlfriend press the brake with the truck running while I listened under the hood. Nothing, but the pedal went to the floor. Turns out the vacuum line that goes inside the cab attaches to a vacuum release valve on the brake pedal and that was leaking when the pedal was pushed down. I disconnected the vacuum line and plugged it, and the brakes work great, but the carb needed to be readjusted because there was enough of a leak inside the cab that it caused some issues under the hood.

So tracking down a vacuum leak is far more involved than just checking vacuum lines off the carb for distributor, etc., especially if you have things operated by vacuum like cruise control.


It came with cruise from the factory, but somewhere down the line it was taken off. I hope this dizzy fixes my problem and that I indeed do not have a vac leak.


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