Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

[iamtherealJayy]

The advance weights look fine. I had both ports capped off on the carb but the line going to the vacuum canister was open not plugged does that matter? And I’d bet the truck was running at 200 rpm lol it was like you could pinpoint which cylinder was firing. It was a slow slow idle

 

[AuroraGirl]

I dont think you showed the advance weights for this truck(that was a different one maybe?) but this truck seems to have 2 fuel filters. 1 before the pump and 1 after. is this still correct?

Also, the plugs, have you sorted those out or do you still have the older plugs in? I rememebr you got a new set but were waiting to put them in until you had it running. Id pull #1 and see what it looks like, check the gap. if youre running pig rich and engine was running slowly(your tach is probably not correct...) you may have just fouled them really quickly. because slow rpm, cold, choked, and retarded.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

It was this truck, ill pull a plug tomorrow since it’s dark now, I didn’t use choke after I found it would run longer without choke.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Charged up the battery other day, truck fired right up I backed out of yard and tried to go up the driveway to back yard and the truck would not go up the hill, it would stall anytime I started to let off the clutch to the point I shoved it in low set parking brake turned truck on pop parking brake off dumped clutch and I’d sputter a few feet and try again. Took about six tries before it finally took off and kept going. I bought a timing light and set initial timing to 10° btdc and adjusted carb to if I recall correctly like 22 in hg of vacuum. I don’t remember the number so don’t think that’s terrible, it was in the green area of the gauge and that was as high as I could. I don’t remember exactly where the screws are set, I started at 2 turns out and turned them inwards. It’s probably around 1 to 1-1/4 turns out currently if I had to guess. I turned it in until vacuum started going down then backed out slower until it dropped ahain then got it to the highest I physically could. Truck was running great. Tried to show dad and it cranked kinda odd but fired right up and drove around the yard fine. I haven’t touched it since.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Charged up the battery other day, truck fired right up I backed out of yard and tried to go up the driveway to back yard and the truck would not go up the hill, it would stall anytime I started to let off the clutch to the point I shoved it in low set parking brake turned truck on pop parking brake off dumped clutch and I’d sputter a few feet and try again. Took about six tries before it finally took off and kept going. I bought a timing light and set initial timing to 10° btdc and adjusted carb to if I recall correctly like 22 in hg of vacuum. I don’t remember the number so don’t think that’s terrible, it was in the green area of the gauge and that was as high as I could. I don’t remember exactly where the screws are set, I started at 2 turns out and turned them inwards. It’s probably around 1 to 1-1/4 turns out currently if I had to guess. I turned it in until vacuum started going down then backed out slower until it dropped ahain then got it to the highest I physically could. Truck was running great. Tried to show dad and it cranked kinda odd but fired right up and drove around the yard fine. I haven’t touched it since.

well its definitely not taking load very well, but this could be a combination of gear box lubricant (a 78 would have called for 75w80 or 90 I think, but something like your 87 would call for ATF.
Can you let the truck warm up?

And wait, are you saying that you got it to do well and just havent touched? If so, then awesome its christmas for your trucks

 

[iamtherealJayy]

After the tuning etc it ran and drove fine, other than radiator leaking coolant. I have a brand new one here but there’s two fittings on the passenger side of it and I don’t know what they’re for so I’m trying to find plugs or find out if they would leak coolant.

 

[AuroraGirl]

After the tuning etc it ran and drove fine, other than radiator leaking coolant. I have a brand new one here but there’s two fittings on the passenger side of it and I don’t know what they’re for so I’m trying to find plugs or find out if they would leak coolant.

is it auto trans? Trans cooler
if you mean your new radiator, it shouldnt have came without plugs unless you bought it for a "auto" application perhaps. Companioes these days. you should be able to just use it but its good policy to put plugs in since you dont want that to become a leak or take in debris.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Truck is manual, I got a radiator with same size code that closest resembled the one in the truck. I’ll try to get picture

 

[iamtherealJayy]

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Current leaky radiator and google image of new style. I dunno if the ports need plugged or if something is supposed to be there

 

[AuroraGirl]

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Current leaky radiator and google image of new style. I dunno if the ports need plugged or if something is supposed to be there

I would just plug em
the ones on your rad may work i do not know

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this is what mine looked like lol. Is that dirt? who knows. plumbers putty stuff? idk.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I don’t know if radiators have went up or what, but majority of the radiators on part geeks for a 78 k10 were 250-500 I found this one and a couple others for “L6” engines well I have a “v8” lol I gave more ordering this radiator than I gave when I replaced the one in my 87 3/4 ton..

 

[73c20jim]

Something often not considered is elevation. Less dense air causes richness. Most settings given are for sea level. Also I was told you lose 1 point of vacuum for every thousand feet of elevation and need to advance 1 degree of timing for every thousand feet of elevation - as a general rule.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’m not very far above sea level as far as I know, also the radiator fittings are an oil cooler of some sort I blew in one and air came out the other one. So I may just cap them and install the radiator

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Trucks been running pretty great. Although it is still slightly rich I’m presuming. I’ve got timing at set and locked in and the carb tuned and the engine runs around 19-21 inHg at idle. Idle is set around 700rpm when the tach actually works. Choke works fairly well and I can start it in moderate weather. I got the exhaust manifold leak fixed but the joint to exhaust pipe still leaks so it’s half open header on one side(sounds awful). Is this edelbrock carb too much carb for a stock 350? I mean it runs great revs up to 4K no problem, but I’m figuring the slightly richness might hurt fuel economy. I’ve had the truck a little over a year and tomorrow I’m buying a utility bed and the truck is about to start getting driven more so I’d like to get atleast 10mpg if possible.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Trucks been running pretty great. Although it is still slightly rich I’m presuming. I’ve got timing at set and locked in and the carb tuned and the engine runs around 19-21 inHg at idle. Idle is set around 700rpm when the tach actually works. Choke works fairly well and I can start it in moderate weather. I got the exhaust manifold leak fixed but the joint to exhaust pipe still leaks so it’s half open header on one side(sounds awful). Is this edelbrock carb too much carb for a stock 350? I mean it runs great revs up to 4K no problem, but I’m figuring the slightly richness might hurt fuel economy. I’ve had the truck a little over a year and tomorrow I’m buying a utility bed and the truck is about to start getting driven more so I’d like to get atleast 10mpg if possible.

you may need a filter or the tach needs new circuitry

edelbrock is too much if you dont have regulator.