Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

[iamtherealJayy]

@AuroraGirl i did quite a few of those:
Fuel was a burst into the bottle every few seconds, I’ll yank the plugs out this afternoon and clean them again, the firing order hasn’t changed it ran fine if even say it was running good, it got cold and stopped starting I blamed the weather but it still won’t start. I’m not sure if it had cats from factory, but it has nothing now, exhaust manifold into about 3 feet of straight pipe. After dad thought it wasn’t getting fuel he poured a little in the carb and nothing, I held it to the floor and it did something. I assume it fired on a cylinder but it just wouldn’t take off and run.

 

[AuroraGirl]

@AuroraGirl i did quite a few of those:
Fuel was a burst into the bottle every few seconds, I’ll yank the plugs out this afternoon and clean them again, the firing order hasn’t changed it ran fine if even say it was running good, it got cold and stopped starting I blamed the weather but it still won’t start. I’m not sure if it had cats from factory, but it has nothing now, exhaust manifold into about 3 feet of straight pipe. After dad thought it wasn’t getting fuel he poured a little in the carb and nothing, I held it to the floor and it did something. I assume it fired on a cylinder but it just wouldn’t take off and run.

that sounds ignition more than fuel, you should re confirm you have actual ignition during all this.. you may be lighting off gas with compression/hot cylinder deposits maybe spark is there but i would wonder how much.
a gas engine "dieseling" would prob spit and stuff since the boom booms are gonna be less complete and off time. ie, intake valves just has to be openn when you have unused oomf and then you get spit

i do ask about the EFE valve that you may still have on manifold?

also, distributor stuffs.
i mentioned

And what plug did you end up putting in, and what gap did each get set to

 

[iamtherealJayy]

@AuroraGirl the truck hasn’t really dieseled much ever when I did have it running, what’s the EFE valve? I haven’t been awake an hour and I can’t put it together on my own lol. The distributor hasn’t changed since it ran fine that day. I put the ts plugs that originally came in the truck back in after cleaning them with a wire brush. Gapped at 45 thou.

 

[AuroraGirl]

@AuroraGirl the truck hasn’t really dieseled much ever when I did have it running, what’s the EFE valve? I haven’t been awake an hour and I can’t put it together on my own lol. The distributor hasn’t changed since it ran fine that day. I put the ts plugs that originally came in the truck back in after cleaning them with a wire brush. Gapped at 45 thou.

:|

The ill ask again.

take the cap off. inspect under th cap. check the button condition, check the advance weights and a picture would be best. after all that id pop the cover for the coil.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

So since it was warm again today I decided to mess with the truck, it fired instantly(two pumps) but didn’t run it just kinda fired on a cylinder or two but never took off. If I gave it throttle while cranking it would start right up, but wasn’t running well. If I let off it would instantly die and if I tried to let off and hit throttle again it would shoot a fireball out of carb. According to the tach it was running 1200 rpms with the throttle pedal on the floor. It was running like it had a miss, I held the throttle for a little while hoping it would clear up and take off but had no luck. With choke the engine would bog down, so there’s enough fuel there. I have a new hei distributor and new ac delco r45ts plugs in my cart ready to order. But I’m thinking there’s still problems with this carb. Is it worth pursuing this carb or should I just get a q-jet back on it?

 

[Blackbeard44]

im wondering if your distrubutor hold down bolt loosened up on you and the distributor retarted itself

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Dad insisted on turning the distributor some to see if it did anything, it’s still within starting degrees. By looking at it it should be around 10° advanced. It’s slightly counter clockwise from being straight on with carb. If you understand my wording. If not I can get pics of anything you request.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Dads still set on the fuel pump is junk, how much fuel should be coming out while cranking? And also the bolt on the side near the pump that you can swap for a longer bolt, I noticed mine still has a long bolt in it(pump swapped by previous owners) could that be holding the rod in place and not allowing the diaphragm to fluctuate properly? Could it have destroyed the cam lobe? Could I be in serious trouble? All possibilities I reckon. I am kind of concerned about the cam at this point for as much trouble as I’ve had keeping it timed. I had it running the other day but only with throttle and it was running rough, wide open only showed about 1200 on the tach. Letting off it would stall and letting off and hitting throttle again would shoot flames out of carb. Is my timing way off again somehow? Is this edelbrock junk at this point?

 

[AuroraGirl]

Dads still set on the fuel pump is junk, how much fuel should be coming out while cranking? And also the bolt on the side near the pump that you can swap for a longer bolt, I noticed mine still has a long bolt in it(pump swapped by previous owners) could that be holding the rod in place and not allowing the diaphragm to fluctuate properly? Could it have destroyed the cam lobe? Could I be in serious trouble? All possibilities I reckon. I am kind of concerned about the cam at this point for as much trouble as I’ve had keeping it timed. I had it running the other day but only with throttle and it was running rough, wide open only showed about 1200 on the tach. Letting off it would stall and letting off and hitting throttle again would shoot flames out of carb. Is my timing way off again somehow? Is this edelbrock junk at this point?

well a stock pump can move a decent amount of gas and at a 7-10 psi nominally, so if you are seeing nothing come out that would be an issue.

your problem to me speaks of too much gas not serious timing problems.


Is your air filter on while doing all this? Your air filter is an important thing and your fireball stuff cant happen too much if there is nothing for it to make a scene at. The problem you state when I got my truck first running was similar because of a r-tarded distributor and a missing spring on the throttle linkage so the thing stayed wide open basically. Your choke, are you properly moving it with the linkage?its not binding is it?

@AuroraGirl the truck hasn’t really dieseled much ever when I did have it running, what’s the EFE valve? I haven’t been awake an hour and I can’t put it together on my own lol. The distributor hasn’t changed since it ran fine that day. I put the ts plugs that originally came in the truck back in after cleaning them with a wire brush. Gapped at 45 thou.

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EFE valve on the exhaust is a tiny flapper that is a butterfly that closes the exhaust path and is on the passenger side and I only suggest checking because mine is seized open but they are kinda restrictive to begin with and they are butterflys, without being seized and a facotry setup, it would control the amount open with a vacuum/temperature operated valve but unhooked I suppose if free would be able to be closed or open but i dont know if you have one

 

[AuroraGirl]

The weights inside appear to be working fine, I turned the rotor several times and it jumped back to position everytime, I cleaned the rotor and cap other day(just scraped them a little) but I do have one question, are plug wires directional? Like this end goes to plug and this end to distributor? There’s no indication on the plug wires but I did notice one end is softer than the other

The question you asked, is interesting. Can you show a picture of your plug wires as is and also under your distributor cap, so we can see the advance weights? Normally the plug wires on the cap have a small change in the shape at the corner of hte 90 degree bend that allows a plastic ring to retain the wires on the distributor while the ones on the plugs wouldnt have this, and would be more suited for a hotter spot. The plug wires i mention would be stock kind tho

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the reason Im asking for pics is because another issue I had was hanging distributor advance weights and it would cause similar issues
and they can still stick without being rusty/sticky, show them please

 

[iamtherealJayy]

The fuel pump appear brand new, with I assume the old one in the bed of the truck, but during cranking the fuel line only goes… spurt cranking cranking spurt cranking cranking spurt. Dad says the pump is supposed to pump continuously with every rotation of camshaft. The air filter is on to begin with then removed to begin checking things. I don’t believe it has the valve in the exhaust, but I’ll check. I’ll also try and get photos of the distributor and the internals. When I had the distrivutor apart I took the advance mechanism and rotated it and it sprung back but that doesn’t always mean it would on its own.

 

[AuroraGirl]

The fuel pump appear brand new, with I assume the old one in the bed of the truck, but during cranking the fuel line only goes… spurt cranking cranking spurt cranking cranking spurt. Dad says the pump is supposed to pump continuously with every rotation of camshaft. The air filter is on to begin with then removed to begin checking things. I don’t believe it has the valve in the exhaust, but I’ll check. I’ll also try and get photos of the distributor and the internals. When I had the distrivutor apart I took the advance mechanism and rotated it and it sprung back but that doesn’t always mean it would on its own.

how fast does the starter spin the engine? Because if its slow enough i imagine the flow wouldnt be consistent it would be in pulses
The reason I am being stickler on it is that the only replaceable wear parts you can fix on a centrifugal advance is the kind on the right, the left 2 once you wear the pivots you need new top parts on the distributor. The right one has 2 pads that they glide on and then the pivots has plastic inserts. They can be refreshed. but if these parts are worn on either kind, you can get them to hang up, snag, not advance correctly. its just rusty bitches that tend to stick bad, but its not only rusty kind.

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[iamtherealJayy]

Now that’s something I can’t answer but I agree the fuel pump being fine, I do need to get a shorter bolt in the block tho because the rod for fuel pump someone left a long bolt hanging out of the block. I have an hei distributor and new ac delco r45ts plugs in my cart ready to order I just need to figure out if just a generic “hei distributor” is good enough or if I need to go make brand. I don’t want to spend a whole lot on this truck anymore I’m starting to get more and more expensive with no benefits. If the truck ran and drive great and I knew it needed a distrivutor I’d be willing to spend more. I reckon I can add an edelbrock rebuild kit to the cart as well and go ahead and replace all the gaskets in the carb. I’m working on getting pics but it’s kinda at a downfall of rain right this second.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Now that’s something I can’t answer but I agree the fuel pump being fine, I do need to get a shorter bolt in the block tho because the rod for fuel pump someone left a long bolt hanging out of the block. I have an hei distributor and new ac delco r45ts plugs in my cart ready to order I just need to figure out if just a generic “hei distributor” is good enough or if I need to go make brand. I don’t want to spend a whole lot on this truck anymore I’m starting to get more and more expensive with no benefits. If the truck ran and drive great and I knew it needed a distrivutor I’d be willing to spend more. I reckon I can add an edelbrock rebuild kit to the cart as well and go ahead and replace all the gaskets in the carb. I’m working on getting pics but it’s kinda at a downfall of rain right this second.

I know drop in distributors are questionable on qualities but so is a 40 year old used one, and just avoid accel and the "race" brands. Skip white i heard is ok. distributor can be bought from GM for a penny but I would spend the money to get a OK drop in and confirm by using that then to drop on a GM new one and find out it was fine.

Even if you end up with both it makes more sense to me, backup lol.

I mean, i think its still jumping the gun but you gotta throw us some bones to be able to tell you what we think is best, but if you dont mind a 50-80 whatever cost for a generic of ok quality, it may not be regreted lets say that

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’m fine with under $100 but like standard hei distributors were like 160 and some other brands like cardone or something were upwards of $200 and this isn’t a race truck or even a traveling truck it’s just an old beater work truck that I just need to run. Also speaking of fuel pump, two or three line? How can I tell what the truck is supposed to have? It currently has a two line and the one removed appeared to be a two line. Could the truck possibly need a 3 line because it’s getting too much fuel buildup without a return?(assuming a return is the third line). The distributor I have in my cart is like 55 just a generic cheapo one. It’s description makes it out to be a ready to run unit including everything. My personal opinion the physical distributor can’t have much go wrong on it, being just a slot at bottom with a gear on it. But the weights and everything else might not be good. Also the vac advance would be questionable. But I already think my vac advance is questionable. I couldn’t suck hard enough for visible movement.