Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

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iamtherealJayy

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If you’re asking me, heater hoses I honestly have no idea I haven’t messed with them. Yes I am running 3/8 fuel line.
 

iamtherealJayy

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Also I have learned float level matters, I need to set mine since I have a slow leak around my throttle shaft. Also the edelbrock 1405 is the manual choke and 1406 is electric choke. I wanted a manual choke so I was in control but I’m thinking electric should’ve been my choice so I don’t have to worry about it lol
 

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iirc the license plate light in my tail light harnesses came off the part that "splits off" for each side and its black or brown and i cant rememeber if the ground wire came from the harness or if it grounded to the mounting spot on the bumper.
IIRC it is grouded to the bumper/frame. There's no ground wire coming back in the wiring harness.

EFFING Glendale PD pulled me over 3 years ago for burnt-out light on my license plate (my old Ford Explorer.) I had a 9-year-old DUI and a 12-pack of beer I had just bought 3 minutes before, so they worked me over for two hours before impounding my car for 30 days anyway. So when I got my C10 first thing I did was install a lighted license plate frame. I am very familiar with the back wiring harness.

Second gas tank with rear-firing flamethrower is another future upgrade....
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’m just going to get a universal light and put it in since mine is missing every bit of it but the socket. Wires were cut, I did finish wiring tail lights in and the trailer light plug. But I’m going to have to tap into the tail light wire to get a license plate light
 

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That's what GM does anyway, pretty sure the lic plate and the tail lights are all wired together.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’m also looking into a regulator for fuel input, since then I can even better dial in the engine. Edelbrocks don’t like anything more than 6 psi, and apparently that’s pushing it. I’m hoping my leak around the throttle linkage is just the float isn’t sitting right and not a junk carb.
 

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Today being about 45° I figured the truck would start, but it cranks and fires right up but throttle input didn’t help, opened choke and it revved up but backfired twice and shut off. I tried cranking and it started going slow. Gauge shows about 12 then when cranking it bottomed out. Is this a bad connection? Or dead battery all of a sudden? It was cranking fine then cranked slow a time or two then just stopped cranking. No click nothing. Changed a tail light bulb and went to crank again and it cranked a few times then slow turn over a time or two and then nothing. Sounds like maybe a bad ground to me? Since it seemed “dead” then after 5-10 minutes it cranked again. But it also still wouldn’t start today. With two pumps and choke shut it fires right off but it won’t respond to throttle input or stay running. It started to die and I hit the throttle and it just stalled out. Is this too much fuel or too much air?
 

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u need to make sure your choke is closing all the way , when it starts push the choke open just a little bit not all the way , if it trys to die pull the choke shut just a little. there is a fine art to working a hand choke
 

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u need to make sure your choke is closing all the way , when it starts push the choke open just a little bit not all the way , if it trys to die pull the choke shut just a little. there is a fine art to working a hand choke
This is right. The stock carburetor with any choke(electric, hot air, or thermostatic) will have the choke plate be fully closed until the motor fires up, then the engine vacuum pulls the choke plate open about 1/8". Then as the motor or electric choke warms up, the choke plate will slowly open up until it is fully open within about 2-3 minutes. So for you, when its cold, pull the choke cable ON. Then give it 1-2 pumps of the accelerator pedal. Then attempt to start. ONCE IT FIRES, push the choke OFF just a smidge.. no more than about 1/8 of the total throw. After about a 30 second-1 minute push it to about 1/2 throw off. After another minute or when it starts to run really badly, push the choke the rest of the way off.

It also sounds like the high idle screw is too far out. It should fire up to about 900-1000rpm as soon as it fires up and then rise up to 12-1400rpm as the engine warms. Once warm and the choke is off, tapping the throttle should kick it back down to regular idle RPM.
 

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Hey AG, I have carb issues similar to the OP, so I have been scoping out your hoses in these pics for reverence. Some Q:

-- In the top pic, the red hoses are to/from your heater core, correct? Sizes are (?) FROM waterpump ---> heater: 5/8"ID? FROM heater ---> Radiator upper: ???

-- Your fuel line is the black hose coming up from the fuel pump and tied off with that bright yellow ground wire? Is that first bright fitting I see a one-way check-valve? It seems to come up then go through a stubbby fuel filter then to the carb inlet. (My setup from the PO has TWO filters, one the larger diameter, then an inline small one right at the inlet. I need to replace the filters maybe delete one. Mine are the clear type (of course) which is handy to confirm you have run out of gas!)

-- The purple wire in the stylish blue split-loom goes to your electric choke, correct? I have a 1404, manual choke whatever that it. I am 100% unclear what any choke cable for mine is supposed to connect to. Last time I saw a choke on the dashboard was my buddy's '64 Ford Falcon.

-- My throttle cable is even more of a corkscrew than yours. I bought a new one, am thinking of installing it but cutting out 3" of the sheathing between throttle and firewall. I would then re-crimp the stops at the pedal shifted up 3" to keep the travel the same. Good idea? (At least it no longer sticks open like when I bought her. Hoo-Boy a couple hairy moments!)

-- You are running distro advance off the regular vacuum, not the "ported" vacuum inlet?

-- you have great taste in spark plug wire colors. I almost got blue woven spark plug heat boots, but I felt a little silly so just got gray ones, but you inspire me.

-- I need to re-plumb my whole engine: fuel, PSteeering, oil cooler, trans cooler lines. I know I am a wuss unless I do it all in braided stainless aerospace with A/N fittings like certain awesome members here have shown me. Black rubber AutoStore crap is for poors and Furds. However, the sweet blue hoses from Aeroquipt are calling to me. You even use blue split-loom! Engine would look very spiffy but very confusing with all blue lines.

-- I really want these but should prob settle for new gaskets and a new $1.95 PCV valve: https://www.vegasrodparts.com/product-p/hz-8115-pbl.htm

Anyway, I just wanted to confirm about your heater hoses and the fuel line you are running.

Thanks,
BR
Yes my fuel line originally was a rochester 2jet metal hardline with a filter in the front of carb from the fuel pump, and because i have a edelbrock, I cut the line a little bit back, flared it with a simple flare, pushed on a fuel line 3/8 i think, then clamp and then to filter, then to carb. things I would note: I use screw clamps but im getting a leak at the carb barb, i need to use a fuel injection clamp or get the edelbrock hardline kit which is nice looking. uses a banjo fiting i think and then routes it low. I have a one way check valve Yes. I have fuel drain back and now i have a bad diaphram I need to replace the fuel pump the check valve will prob go at that time and ill do something better with the fuel line since Ill be doing that

The fuel line is just fuel line, I dont use ethanol fuel so i dont bother getting ratedl ine for that.
Also, those clear filters... i would avoid. this wix metal 3/8 in/out was cheap and much better quality.

Those wires were a poor choice of buy, the wire is fine but the boots were **** literally snapped in half on the plugs.. the boot.... dont know how that works. the wire shields are fine tho. the wire otherwise the boots are OK. The cap is an OE because my aftermarket was a POS cap. I just cleaned it up. Is due for a new one. coil is OE so is module. The distributor is timed by ear atm, and the vac advance needs a new hose BUT I do believe i put it on the one edelbrock says to for a manual trans setup. Or maybe it was something else. I read it on their literature, i originally had opposite hose.

I also yes have the purple wire running for the choke. it has a fuse tap in the fuse box on wipers I believe for key on power and then I just ran to that. The other is ground of course. The heater hoses are yes red. 3/4 is the big one maybe?
For inspiration of color:
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heres my cars engine

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if you need a custom length throttle cable i would do the lokar stuff i hear about people using. I need to get the proper bracket for mine to place the square to hold it in the right spot for a 4 barrel(2 barrel was on before).
The red hoses are ghetto held as they are because they were doing a good amount of flopping and i didnt want to stress the barbs on heater core more so. I need to put new fittings on the intake (those are cast iron ones, ick, i have brass to go on)

Also, I need to get some plug wire retainers and run them right so they dont touch and also are just held nicely.

I have another engine with the same valve covers, Im prob gonna pull them, paint them, get a new cork gasket come in and replace the valve cover at the same time installing a wire management stuffs(usually use valve cover bolts or something is why)

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I also need a new vent push in cap thing for the cover(or get a factory air cleaner on the carb with the fresh air source to the air cleaner) and also I need to 1) get a fan shroud 2) replace rad clamps with t bars or constant tension clamps 3) get the right pulley for the belt drive for the alt(prob just upgrade that tbh) and get new belt(one is new). I also could use a new fan clutch as I reused that one, older than dirt no doubt.
I also need to get my brake booster charcoal filter standing straight up and down(its meant to do this)

The radiator needs to be swapped out since the nipple for overflow broke off and I have a larger, nicer rad and also the top cover to install it too. I can then put the overflow back into service. That rad will also have a port that i could run the heater hose to but I may just leave as is.
 

iamtherealJayy

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Alright so it’s been warm last few days (55 today) truck still won’t start. It ran fine then it got cold and wouldn’t start and it hasn’t started since. Dad thinks it’s not getting fuel. The fuel pump is pushing bursts of fuel every few seconds so I think it’s got fuel but it’s getting too much. I did try and start it in the beginning with no choke then pressed throttle to floor and pulled choke(easier to pull with pedal on floor) and release throttle while still pulling choke handle. Then crank and nothing. I did get a spark plug and verify spark. I don’t know what could’ve happened unless this motor is just junk. It ran fine one day and it hasn’t ran since. I can’t blame it on the cold anymore since it’s been warm last few days.
 

Blackbeard44

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the spark plugs might be soaked, pull one and see what they look like
 

iamtherealJayy

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It’s dark now but I still figure it would’ve started after the first crank before pumping the gas or doing anything else. I mean when I first tried it started but wouldn’t stay running. It ran as long as I was pumping the gas but it ran terrible it was pretty much just a spurt with each press and as soon as I stopped the engine did too. I just don’t get how it went from running perfectly fine just needed to button up a few things to be good to not running with no changes?
 

Blackbeard44

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i was thinking it got flooded badly, you mentioned it getting too much fuel, if the plugs are soaked they wont run, and if they do run it will be very crappy
 

AuroraGirl

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Alright so it’s been warm last few days (55 today) truck still won’t start. It ran fine then it got cold and wouldn’t start and it hasn’t started since. Dad thinks it’s not getting fuel. The fuel pump is pushing bursts of fuel every few seconds so I think it’s got fuel but it’s getting too much. I did try and start it in the beginning with no choke then pressed throttle to floor and pulled choke(easier to pull with pedal on floor) and release throttle while still pulling choke handle. Then crank and nothing. I did get a spark plug and verify spark. I don’t know what could’ve happened unless this motor is just junk. It ran fine one day and it hasn’t ran since. I can’t blame it on the cold anymore since it’s been warm last few days.
i feel like we have been at this step before...

anyway, Its simple, run your fuel line into a bucket. good flow?

Okay, leave it in bucket, gas can best. crank a little bit with throttle open, clear any flooding potentially there. if it starts ti fire off, you know you had too much fuel, iff it doesnt really, thats okay, but check a plug. not wet? at that point its really simple diag. Starting fluid with plugs in and into carb opening.

does it run? it doesnt have to be long . if not, I would try moving each plug wire 1 place incase its a freak situation like that(confirm the order relative to eachother independent of the positions on the cap, you know, the order you would see on the cast intakes or owners manual. if your wires go to the respective cylinder one after another on the cap in.. clockwise..? I forget the direction but hell the direction could be the situation havent done that but we all do that stuff, been there.
if confirmed this point and no change is made other than moving the wires all one, try again. Nothing? Okay, pull the cap off. whats it look like inside the cap? On the terminals. then take the rotor off, show me your weights. I know you checked them before but lets see what they appear like

also, maybe cap the vac advance just in case theres a vac issue and its causing some weird stuff

Pull the coil cover off the cap make sure not rusty and also good wire condition, clean terminals

if still issues after this... pull a valve cover or 2, turn the engine over, whats the valve train do

plus the booster vac hose with a bolt temporarily too
no cats right? your 78 if it had a 350 stock i think it had a cat converter but those dont age the best like ones these days even. I just mention because exhaust restriction could cause something like spitting since exhaust may pressure kinda at random

Also you probably had EFE. did you make sure the butterfly on manifold is open not closed?
im out of ideas
 

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