Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

[iamtherealJayy]

@AuroraGirl i never cut the sheathing for the choke cable, I did cut some off of the inner part because it was sticking out around 6”. I had no reference when installing any of it so I didn’t know it needed to be so far, it’s all temporary I left everything as long as possible and mounted it up it’s a 6’ cable and I have it mounted in the lower dash where previous owner had the universal ignition cylinder. I did try and keep all turns and bends minimal and not kink the cable but I didn’t know the sheath should’ve went farther forward. As for the z bend I don’t know how to do that I can look into it, this is just a 90° bend then pushes through hole with a 90° back on other side to hold it in

 

[AuroraGirl]

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If you can then trim the cable back and then slide the sheath up further, you can reduce the distance outside of the sheath to be enough to open and closethe choke fuilly, that should partially help with the choke cable effort.

 

[Blackbeard44]

Not sure if this will help you or not, but depending on what the weather is like in your neck of the woods, where I am at it hasnt been above freezing for a few weeks now, I went to fire up my wife ranchero and let it run for a while yesterday, it sits under a carport in the cold weather and it was a royal pain in the ass to get keep it running, it ran great for about 5 minites and than started shaking and idleing low and sputtering, I shut it down and looked at tje basics had a smoke, went to start it and it was fine so I pulled it into the shop and let it sit, started a fire in the wood stove, went out today and was fine, I think the carb was iceing up, thats the only conclusion I can come up with, it seems after it heat soaked for a few minutes it was fine, I put it back under the carport and will try to get it to act up again in a few weeks. its just a thought you might be dealing with something like this.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Not sure if this will help you or not, but depending on what the weather is like in your neck of the woods, where I am at it hasnt been above freezing for a few weeks now, I went to fire up my wife ranchero and let it run for a while yesterday, it sits under a carport in the cold weather and it was a royal pain in the ass to get keep it running, it ran great for about 5 minites and than started shaking and idleing low and sputtering, I shut it down and looked at tje basics had a smoke, went to start it and it was fine so I pulled it into the shop and let it sit, started a fire in the wood stove, went out today and was fine, I think the carb was iceing up, thats the only conclusion I can come up with, it seems after it heat soaked for a few minutes it was fine, I put it back under the carport and will try to get it to act up again in a few weeks. its just a thought you might be dealing with something like this.

I know whats wrong with it
Its a Ford

You know what Ford stands for dont ya?

Fix it again, tony, hehehe.

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[iamtherealJayy]

@AuroraGirl If it requires a tool than no I didn’t put a correct zbend lol I used needle nose pliers with a 90 to get it through then another 90 to hold it in. I’ll look into timing it after I put a hole in the firewall right now it’s poked through the speedometer cable hole

 

[AuroraGirl]

@AuroraGirl If it requires a tool than no I didn’t put a correct zbend lol I used needle nose pliers with a 90 to get it through then another 90 to hold it in. I’ll look into timing it after I put a hole in the firewall right now it’s poked through the speedometer cable hole

you can use pliers i just showed for example of what a z bend looks like

 

[Bextreme04]

@AuroraGirl If it requires a tool than no I didn’t put a correct zbend lol I used needle nose pliers with a 90 to get it through then another 90 to hold it in. I’ll look into timing it after I put a hole in the firewall right now it’s poked through the speedometer cable hole

You don't need to put any bend in it. I sent you that brass piece too that attaches to the lever. You undo the screw, slide the cable through the small hole, then put the screw in and tighten it down. The screw will hold it to the lever and retain the cable at the same time. If the one I sent you is too small, you can get a whole set of sizes for about $4 from the local auto parts store. https://www.autozone.com/collision-...sGTySI1G7BcoighliqYaAuapEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[AuroraGirl]

You don't need to put any bend in it. I sent you that brass piece too that attaches to the lever. You undo the screw, slide the cable through the small hole, then put the screw in and tighten it down. The screw will hold it to the lever and retain the cable at the same time. If the one I sent you is too small, you can get a whole set of sizes for about $4 from the local auto parts store. https://www.autozone.com/collision-...sGTySI1G7BcoighliqYaAuapEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

im glad that was included, he must not have realized from the contents what it was lol. For a second i thought it was strange he had the bracket but not thhe holder piece.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I knew what it was for but had 0 idea how to make it work, I’ll try and put it in the lever and see what happens, although currently focusing on leaf spring bolts for my 87 lol it’s my priority over this truck.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

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And just like that it’s quitting time for today…

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Oh the reason it was harder to pull the choke than I’d like was the high idle screw, it was still in a lot from when I was trying to get it to start the other day. But I had to take the choke lever off to get that holder piece on. I had to make the hole in the lever a little bigger for the screw, in the process I snapped the head off the screw holding on the choke lever… I have a screw I think will work but I have no idea how to get the old one out.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Got the old screw drilled out and a new one in, choke seems to have full movement but I believe there’s a bind somewhere or I don’t fully understand a choke cable lol, before the choke cable if you hit the throttle the choke would open, I have to manually close the choke with the cable and it’s not easy to push nor pull with the high idle screw, but with choke closed when it ran it only idled around 1000. It wouldn’t start today in the cold cold weather.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’m going to put 5 gallons of fuel in the truck and finish up tail light wiring and try to drive the truck around the yard for a bit today. I’m hoping since it’s 45° today maybe it will start and I can work on tuning and timing with the engine warm. It was around 25-30 yesterday and the truck fired right up but wouldn’t stay running then just wouldn’t start back.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Choke on with about a quarter throttle truck fire right up but after about 10-15 seconds stalls back out, throttle changes do not effect how it’s running I tried more throttle and it didn’t not run better, less throttle did not change anything, I assume it’s still too cold

 

[BRetty]

are you able to remove one spring and then manually pull the throttle and see if it snaps back? If it goes back ok, i would run with one

This isnt a pressing issue, so dont be overwhelmed. this is just a recommendation for future:

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ive found the edelbrock spring bracket to be really nice since you just put it under an intake bolt
Also if you see my cable youll notice the plastic sheath that i was refering to, not sure what it means for yours but i would plan a cable in the somewhat distant future as well.

note: my carb has a 2barrel linkage bracket, it is not correct for what i should have.

Hey AG, I have carb issues similar to the OP, so I have been scoping out your hoses in these pics for reverence. Some Q:

-- In the top pic, the red hoses are to/from your heater core, correct? Sizes are (?) FROM waterpump ---> heater: 5/8"ID? FROM heater ---> Radiator upper: ???

-- Your fuel line is the black hose coming up from the fuel pump and tied off with that bright yellow ground wire? Is that first bright fitting I see a one-way check-valve? It seems to come up then go through a stubbby fuel filter then to the carb inlet. (My setup from the PO has TWO filters, one the larger diameter, then an inline small one right at the inlet. I need to replace the filters maybe delete one. Mine are the clear type (of course) which is handy to confirm you have run out of gas!)

-- The purple wire in the stylish blue split-loom goes to your electric choke, correct? I have a 1404, manual choke whatever that it. I am 100% unclear what any choke cable for mine is supposed to connect to. Last time I saw a choke on the dashboard was my buddy's '64 Ford Falcon.

-- My throttle cable is even more of a corkscrew than yours. I bought a new one, am thinking of installing it but cutting out 3" of the sheathing between throttle and firewall. I would then re-crimp the stops at the pedal shifted up 3" to keep the travel the same. Good idea? (At least it no longer sticks open like when I bought her. Hoo-Boy a couple hairy moments!)

-- You are running distro advance off the regular vacuum, not the "ported" vacuum inlet?

-- you have great taste in spark plug wire colors. I almost got blue woven spark plug heat boots, but I felt a little silly so just got gray ones, but you inspire me.

-- I need to re-plumb my whole engine: fuel, PSteeering, oil cooler, trans cooler lines. I know I am a wuss unless I do it all in braided stainless aerospace with A/N fittings like certain awesome members here have shown me. Black rubber AutoStore crap is for poors and Furds. However, the sweet blue hoses from Aeroquipt are calling to me. You even use blue split-loom! Engine would look very spiffy but very confusing with all blue lines.

-- I really want these but should prob settle for new gaskets and a new $1.95 PCV valve: https://www.vegasrodparts.com/product-p/hz-8115-pbl.htm

Anyway, I just wanted to confirm about your heater hoses and the fuel line you are running.

Thanks,
BR