Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

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Bextreme04

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Here’s a cold start of the truck this morning I press gas once and then pulled choke and after it fired I tried to push it back in, Hugh idle is usually 1100-1200 but it only got up to 800ish in the video I think. Usually I pull the choke after I got it started though. Any ideas how to get it to move easier? Lower the high idle screw?
You have to set the choke first, then press the pedal. If you do it the other way, the carb isn't setting onto the high idle cam or properly setting the choke.
 

iamtherealJayy

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If I have the truck running a pull the choke after you feel resistance it’s raising the idle. I cannot get it to raise it when pushing choke back in though
 

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The started skipped twice two different times today when starting the truck. Also refilled fuel still getting 8mpg. Is there anything I can do to get that up to 10? I started driving easier and I think it went down about .2mpg…
 

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The started skipped twice two different times today when starting the truck. Also refilled fuel still getting 8mpg. Is there anything I can do to get that up to 10? I started driving easier and I think it went down about .2mpg…
.2 MPG could be as simple as a pump deviation, there is no guaranty that each fill is actually full to the same level in the tank so you can get some slight variation from that.

As for gas mileage there is no magic pill and I've already made suggestions that would likely help you out in that department.
 

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The starter skipped again today. I guess I need to get under and check the bolts it’s done it 3 times now. I think the truck runs slightly rich majority of the time. Is that just in the carb?
 

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The starter skipped again today. I guess I need to get under and check the bolts it’s done it 3 times now. I think the truck runs slightly rich majority of the time. Is that just in the carb?
There's only about 2 possibilities on the starter. Either the starter is bad or there is a chipped tooth in the flywheel.
 

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The starter is fine I’ve replaced it after I destroyed it the first time. The fly wheel was fine no clue now, but it hasn’t slipped in many months. I don’t know why it randomly skipped twice yesterday and once today. It only whined once like it was still spinning. The other two times it just made a grind sound and stopped when I let off the key. Waited a second hit the key and it fired right up.
 

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The starter is fine I’ve replaced it after I destroyed it the first time. The fly wheel was fine no clue now, but it hasn’t slipped in many months. I don’t know why it randomly skipped twice yesterday and once today. It only whined once like it was still spinning. The other two times it just made a grind sound and stopped when I let off the key. Waited a second hit the key and it fired right up.
Just because you replaced it doesn't rule the starter out especially if you opted for a low cost reman unit. I get it moneys tight, but if you did choose a low cost reman unit there is a higher chance of a defect.

As to your running rich question, adjusting the idle screws may make a difference, but obviously if there is an internal defect or it is jetted wrong adjusting it won't fix that. I can't remember did you pull a couple plugs after the last running rich conversation we had. If you did I need to go back and look at the pictures, if you didn't it would be good to pull at least a few to get an idea what's going on.
 

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I haven’t pulled plugs since I replaced them a couple months ago. I can turn the mixture screws in some but the vacuum is at highest where it currently is, so unless the edelbrock just runs rich by itself it’s tuned pretty close.
 

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First photo is cylinder one and second is cylinder 2. Both look decent in my opinion other than the color isn’t through out. One side of the ceramic is darker on both.
 

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I haven’t pulled plugs since I replaced them a couple months ago. I can turn the mixture screws in some but the vacuum is at highest where it currently is, so unless the edelbrock just runs rich by itself it’s tuned pretty close.
Well unless your checking with a wide band oxygen sensor in the exhaust there is a certain amount of guess work. Highest vacuum is a good place to be. If you want to try leaning it out a little more turn each screw in 1/8th of a turn, drive it for a day if it seems fine turn it in another 1/8th of a turn. Write down how much you turn the screws so if you overdue it you can easily get back to where you were.

Those plugs are rich. In the old days we wanted light tan as ideal. Today gas burns much cleaner than it did back then, so often VERY light tan is more like it. It's much harder to read plugs now a days, but no doubt that's a bit rich. Try leaning the mixture screws a little and see if it'll let you without causing it to run rough. Otherwise we'll have to consider other carb issues.
 

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So you want me to start the truck and get it idling and go in an eighth turn? Should I go a quarter turn if I can? All of my vacuum reading are frm idle (600ish unless it’s got the vacuum leak and misfire)
 

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Uploading videos one moment, I turned mixture screws 1/8 turn in vacuum dropped about 1-2 so went a quarter turn in stayed about the same. I also lowered the choke high idle but raised it back to around 1200 since it wasn’t a whole lot easier to pull. Raised the idle some since when I changed the mixture screws the idle dropped about 200(vacuum was around 14 raised idle back to 600/700 and vacuum around 17ish) I videoed the vacuum and tachometer and reved the truck. Pulled choke truck wasn’t happy so it’s got plenty of fuel. I just happened to look back when I was revving and noticed each time I did the truck would roll “coal” which seems uhm like something isn’t quite right since rolling coal is a form of too much fuel not enough air. If the truck drives fine to work tomorrow I may go another 1/8 turn and hope the vacuum doesn’t drop out too much.
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You can’t really see the black smoke in the video unless you’re really looking but you could tell in person.
 

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If you have any other requests I can try them, I’m not worried about fouling plugs I have a brand new set of R45TS plugs ready to go in whenever the truck needs them. I never noticed the truck was really running rich it drove out fine and revved up no problems I was seeking highest vacuum on a gauge so that’s where I set mixture screws. In the beginning of the video the truck was running rough after changing mixture screws and the vacuum was lower around 11/12 but after a few revs and some higher rpms it was back to 17ish.
 

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Off topic question, for valve covers do you have to have the little piece that distributes the clamping load? I bought those two 305’s and one of them was tricked up with some chrome edelbrock stuff and I want to put the valve covers on this 350. It had the twist stick bolts for easy removal but majority of them were broken and I think one or two of the little piece were missing. I scraped all the fork gasket and rtv off and hit them with some dawn and a steel wool piece got them looking alright. Also there’s two rubber circles in the valve covers I assume one for pcv and a crank vent, so how do you go about adding oil? Pour it in one of those?
 

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