Driver4r's Monte

[Driver4r]

Update: Been doing most of the machining for my engine.
Block, Check
Heads, Check
Crank, Check

And the tin is done

Going roller this time. And pics are on my phone, so ill have to add them later.

Goal right now is the end of june.

And ill get an updated pic tomarro, the engine block is painted.

 

[Driver4r]

Did a mockup friday. Valve covers arnt mine. They were the only ones around atm.

 

[foamypirate]

Nice work, man. Good to see you around again.

 

[Driver4r]

Got some parts ordered :horay:

Pistons, cam and some odds and ends.

Btw. I went roller this time

 

[bucket]

I think going roller is very wise these days. Otherwise it's camshaft roulette.

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

Are you having to get retro-fit lifters? Which ones are you going with?

Couldn't remember if you had a roller ready block or not.

 

[HotRodPC]

Update: Been doing most of the machining for my engine.
Block, Check
Heads, Check
Crank, Check

And the tin is done

Going roller this time. And pics are on my phone, so ill have to add them later.

Goal right now is the end of june.

And ill get an updated pic tomarro, the engine block is painted.

That's a top notch bore job right there. And clue what the green thing is and why for it's used? It's not always used.

 

[Driver4r]

That's a top notch bore job right there. And clue what the green thing is and why for it's used? It's not always used.

Thanks. I did it all myself.

It's a deck plate. It basically preloads the block when you bore it. The metalergy inside the block thinks the heads are bolted on. So when you bolt the heads on its perfectly straight.

Deck plate vs. Non it's not a whole lot of difference. But I think it's like .001-.002 out of round if not used.

And I wanted it PERFECT.

And for those who are following this. I actually went .031 instead of. 030. Who can tell me why?

 

[DoubleDingo]

I was wondering what that plate was for, now I know. Makes sense. We didn't have one when we rebuilt my engine, but it was a re-ring rebuild on mine.

Is it difficult to convert to roller? If my new cam takes a dump I I will consider going roller for sure. In the meantime I add zddp to my oil, but not too much. I added 6 oz of 3x zddp to my oil change. The bottle says to add more, but I've read that too much zinc is a bad thing.

 

[bucket]

And for those who are following this. I actually went .031 instead of. 030. Who can tell me why?

I know I've heard of a reason for this before... I think. Does it have something to do with the rings you are going to use? I'd say the pistons, but those should be the correct undersize to account for getting up to temp.

 

[bucket]

Is it difficult to convert to roller? If my new cam takes a dump I I will consider going roller for sure. In the meantime I add zddp to my oil, but not too much. I added 6 oz of 3x zddp to my oil change. The bottle says to add more, but I've read that too much zinc is a bad thing.

Not really difficult, other than cost. A factory roller-ready block is nice because of the cam retention plate, otherwise you have to make sure endplay is set properly with the cam button (cam button rides against the timing cover).

 

[Driver4r]

I was wondering what that plate was for, now I know. Makes sense. We didn't have one when we rebuilt my engine, but it was a re-ring rebuild on mine.

Is it difficult to convert to roller? If my new cam takes a dump I I will consider going roller for sure. In the meantime I add zddp to my oil, but not too much. I added 6 oz of 3x zddp to my oil change. The bottle says to add more, but I've read that too much zinc is a bad thing.

I actually went with a roller block this time around. It's cheeper than a retro kit. With a retro kit you will have the run the link bar style lifters which will run you about 4-500. Then with a cam that let's say is another 4-500. There's 1k already.

So unless you run a small base cam (.900) the oem roller blocks and lifters will do the job.if you run a small base cam then your back to the link style.

But small base cams are for BIG lift. We're talking like 750+.

But all in all. In a retro kit it's the roller cam bushing(if gear drive timing), the link bar lifters, and the cam.


And as for the deck plate. If a machine shop does it. I was told it's like 150-200 more. Just cause it takes more time to setup. And the gain is minimal unless your building an all out performance engine and need every ounce of power you can pull.

 

[Driver4r]

I know I've heard of a reason for this before... I think. Does it have something to do with the rings you are going to use? I'd say the pistons, but those should be the correct undersize to account for getting up to temp.

Both. I'm running coated skirt pistons. But the coating is only like .0002 thick total.

Mainly it's for expansion. Again mainly a performance thing. Usually most places just go .030 for standard use. And .0305 for performance. But since it tends to run hotter in the summer and I run it HARD and test limits. I put a full thousands of extra clearance in for expansion.

99% of .030 pistons are .027-.028. Cause they have pre determined the expansion

 

[DoubleDingo]

Thanks for the clarification guys. Since I prefer stock engines, sounds like a roller setup is not money well spent if my cam gives up. I will just run the zinc additive and good oil and hope for the best.

 

[Driver4r]

Thanks for the clarification guys. Since I prefer stock engines, sounds like a roller setup is not money well spent if my cam gives up. I will just run the zinc additive and good oil and hope for the best.

Don't get me wrong. Roller is the bees knees. But yes it's alot more than flat tappet.

If you can find a roller block or running engine. Then swap the cam. But retro fits are so expensive