Difference between HD and non HD front suspension 82 C-20

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Blackbeard44

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If I were in your shoes, I would try to replace them with the standard suspension parts and compare the existing parts to the new ones, camper special truck might call for HD, but I would try regular stuff and see how it goes. maybe have your local parts house get both HD and standard in and check them out side by side
 

SirRobyn0

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It's always tough in a situation like this without an RPO code, and no matter what there will be somewhat of a guess involved. I've always thought the C20 with the semi float rear end were standard duty and C20 with the full float was heavy duty. But also I always thought the control arms were the same. I would take Andy's approach, get the standard stuff and see if it's the same.
 

mtnmankev

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If I were in your shoes, I would try to replace them with the standard suspension parts and compare the existing parts to the new ones, camper special truck might call for HD, but I would try regular stuff and see how it goes. maybe have your local parts house get both HD and standard in and check them out side by side
With the truck down, I would have to have parts shipped to me.
I am remote and off the grid, but I can get a ride to the post office.
Closest parts store is 50 miles each way.
I will call them in the morning and see if they even show a listing for HD arms.
Standard duty will NOT last on the roads where I live.
I am so sick and tired of the roads killing my truck (and my back), I am listing my place with a realtor just to get out of here, and I have no place to go and can't afford to rent anywhere.
 

Blackbeard44

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I used to have to drive down a bumpy dirt road for only a mile and it sucked, I ended up getting a piece of chain link fence that was 8foot by 6foot and used bailing wire to attach a few brake drums to the end of it and would pull it behind my truck and after a couple of months I had the road very smooth. I would unhook it at the end and leave it and than re hook it on my way home, it made such a difference neighbors offered me money for fixing the road
 

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It's always tough in a situation like this without an RPO code, and no matter what there will be somewhat of a guess involved. I've always thought the C20 with the semi float rear end were standard duty and C20 with the full float was heavy duty. But also I always thought the control arms were the same. I would take Andy's approach, get the standard stuff and see if it's the same.
Also on a C6P, the fuel filler hole is bigger to allow a leaded gas nozzle.
 

AuroraGirl

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I don't like to deal with autozone, and if the arms are $165 plus tax each, I will scrap out the truck.
It's the truck in the avatar pic I have.
Shame a nice rust free truck goes away, but crap happens.
woah woah woah what the hell, this escalated.

You wont put 165 dollar control arms on a rust free truck and the next natural decision is to scrap it?

I am a little confused.

Can you show some pics of what you have now and what your problem is?!
 

mtnmankev

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To @Blackbeard44 it's six miles of horrible roads to pavement, and ruts and dips are over a foot deep, and big rocks stick up from the road surface, I would need at least a D8 Cat or motor grader to fix them. I have lived here 14 years and the roads are at the worst they ever have been.
And more people keep moving in and drive on the roads and tear them up.

To @AuroraGirl it's a matter of economics and failing health, my low fixed income barely allows me to even live month to month, and I have reached the point I cannot handle any added debt, add to that I am unable to do much mechanic work any more and there is no shop in the world worth 100 bucks an hour (or more) and will most likely do substandard work.

As soon as it warms up enough today to hobble outside, I will try to get a pic of the worst control arm, it shows the bushing backed out.
The other side hides the wear until the tire is off the ground and a pry bar lifts the suspension and at that point one can see the movement.
Obviously both sides will need to be replaced.

If I can't fix the truck, it's useless to me, it can't be driven safely in this condition either.
Maybe move around the yard is okay, but it isn't going out on a road.
 

AuroraGirl

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To @Blackbeard44 it's six miles of horrible roads to pavement, and ruts and dips are over a foot deep, and big rocks stick up from the road surface, I would need at least a D8 Cat or motor grader to fix them. I have lived here 14 years and the roads are at the worst they ever have been.
And more people keep moving in and drive on the roads and tear them up.

To @AuroraGirl it's a matter of economics and failing health, my low fixed income barely allows me to even live month to month, and I have reached the point I cannot handle any added debt, add to that I am unable to do much mechanic work any more and there is no shop in the world worth 100 bucks an hour (or more) and will most likely do substandard work.

As soon as it warms up enough today to hobble outside, I will try to get a pic of the worst control arm, it shows the bushing backed out.
The other side hides the wear until the tire is off the ground and a pry bar lifts the suspension and at that point one can see the movement.
Obviously both sides will need to be replaced.

If I can't fix the truck, it's useless to me, it can't be driven safely in this condition either.
Maybe move around the yard is okay, but it isn't going out on a road.
I mean I am saying dont scrap the thing, save it and gift to family or sell it for cheap at the very worst
 

Big Chip

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To @Blackbeard44 it's six miles of horrible roads to pavement, and ruts and dips are over a foot deep, and big rocks stick up from the road surface, I would need at least a D8 Cat or motor grader to fix them. I have lived here 14 years and the roads are at the worst they ever have been.
And more people keep moving in and drive on the roads and tear them up.

To @AuroraGirl it's a matter of economics and failing health, my low fixed income barely allows me to even live month to month, and I have reached the point I cannot handle any added debt, add to that I am unable to do much mechanic work any more and there is no shop in the world worth 100 bucks an hour (or more) and will most likely do substandard work.

As soon as it warms up enough today to hobble outside, I will try to get a pic of the worst control arm, it shows the bushing backed out.
The other side hides the wear until the tire is off the ground and a pry bar lifts the suspension and at that point one can see the movement.
Obviously both sides will need to be replaced.

If I can't fix the truck, it's useless to me, it can't be driven safely in this condition either.
Maybe move around the yard is okay, but it isn't going out on a road.
Might I suggest you sell rather than scrap if it comes to that? I wonder if hd C20 stuff is the same as C30 parts? It's possible someone on here has the parts you need for cheap and can help out. Try a post on the wanted section before you completely give up.
 

AuroraGirl

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Might I suggest you sell rather than scrap if it comes to that? I wonder if hd C20 stuff is the same as C30 parts? It's possible someone on here has the parts you need for cheap and can help out. Try a post on the wanted section before you completely give up.
The AC delco thing I posted earlier was a C20 and then a C30, both listings have the same parts. There are differences in things like spacers, ball joints, I think, and other things, but the actual control arms said they were the same. The other image I posted before indicates it shares a lot with the C20 crew cabs to (brakes, springs)
 

Big Chip

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The AC delco thing I posted earlier was a C20 and then a C30, both listings have the same parts. There are differences in things like spacers, ball joints, I think, and other things, but the actual control arms said they were the same. The other image I posted before indicates it shares a lot with the C20 crew cabs to (brakes, springs)
Right on. I didn't scroll through that stuff but thought I remembered they were the same when I bought my new control arms. I suspect someone has what he needs for next to nothing.
 

mtnmankev

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The worst part of all this is, I depend on that truck to travel to the city for supplies, propane, gas, groceries, Rx's, doctors, haul water for the house, etc.
 

idahovette

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@mtnmankev , just a quick check in my NAPA book. Lists the same upper ball joint for C20 and C30 260-1119, also lists the same upper control arm complete 260-5368 left and 260-5367 right for both 20s and 30s. Cost on the arms is $84.49. When things have been tight in the past, on some backroads trucks, I have seen the bushings welded into the upper arms as a stop gap and they have lasted for a LONG time with no side effects. As I remember the "threads" in the arms are NOT very pronounced, I mean it doesn't really look like real threads, you just "screw one bushing in, set the shaft in the center and the "screw" the other bushing in. Will check my stock and see if I have anything left over from my shop downtown.
 

mtnmankev

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@mtnmankev , just a quick check in my NAPA book. Lists the same upper ball joint for C20 and C30 260-1119, also lists the same upper control arm complete 260-5368 left and 260-5367 right for both 20s and 30s. Cost on the arms is $84.49. When things have been tight in the past, on some backroads trucks, I have seen the bushings welded into the upper arms as a stop gap and they have lasted for a LONG time with no side effects. As I remember the "threads" in the arms are NOT very pronounced, I mean it doesn't really look like real threads, you just "screw one bushing in, set the shaft in the center and the "screw" the other bushing in. Will check my stock and see if I have anything left over from my shop downtown.
Perry, thank you for the info.
I looked at napaonline, but it wasn't much help.
I do recall the "threads" in the arms aren't much to speak of, but I'm sure they are there for a reason.
Either way, if the bushings fall out when the truck is going down the road it can make for an interesting ride, to say the least.
Another thing I learned about this truck, it's registered as an 83 but was made in 82, found out when I replaced the idler arm and tie rods a while back, the 82 used thicker, heavier parts.
Would not surprise me a bit if other things were different also.

Edited for content: And if the bushing holes in the arms are wallered out, that will translate to having possible excessive play in the system, if i was to install shaft/bushing kits, there's still the chance the bushings can be loose and cause driiving issues and added premature wear.
 

idahovette

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@mtnmankev , Yes I do realize that and I was just throwing out the info I have available. It sounds as if you REALLY need to get out of there and a little close to civilization so you can maintain yourself. If there was any way to help you out, I'd be there in a minute!!
 

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