Coolant on passanger floor

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

83kid

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2014
Posts
321
Reaction score
1
Location
Massachusettes
First Name
John
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
Hi,
So i recently did an intake manifold gasket on my truck, and now there is coolant leaking on the passenger side floor, streams show its coming from the bottem on the firewall, not a ton but enough that in a day or 2 of driving it has streams covering it

What would this be? Something with the heater? Truck has heat, no ac
 

ProjectJunky

Junior Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2015
Posts
11
Reaction score
0
Location
Yuma, AZ
First Name
Pat
Truck Year
1989
Truck Model
burb 1500
Engine Size
350
Yup usually means the heater core has gone. Check to see if someone has previously put hose clamps on. Maybe youll get lucky and just have a hose leaking. You can temp stop the leak by looping the hoses in the engine bay till you can get the problem fixed.
 

83kid

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2014
Posts
321
Reaction score
1
Location
Massachusettes
First Name
John
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
Yup usually means the heater core has gone. Check to see if someone has previously put hose clamps on. Maybe youll get lucky and just have a hose leaking. You can temp stop the leak by looping the hoses in the engine bay till you can get the problem fixed.

Alright thanks! And it has hose clamps on the hoses from the outside (inside the hood) i can see, is the heater core (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Heater-Core/_/R-NHS6603047_0237261616) A piece that is inside the cab, or does it go out around the radiator (as thats what it looks like).


Thanks!
 

marks86

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Posts
1,513
Reaction score
90
Location
Latham, NY
First Name
Mark
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K30
Engine Size
12v Cummins

MadOgre

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Posts
4,090
Reaction score
51
Location
NA
First Name
NA
Truck Year
NA
Truck Model
NA
Engine Size
NA
Actually there are a few bolts that need to be accessed from the outside firewall to be able to remove the plastic heater housing.

Also the heater hoses must be disconnected at the firewall.
 

MadOgre

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Posts
4,090
Reaction score
51
Location
NA
First Name
NA
Truck Year
NA
Truck Model
NA
Engine Size
NA
This is one of those jobs where you want to just take your time and be gentle with it lol. Also lots of light helps too!
 

flyboy1100

Full Access Member
Joined
May 23, 2014
Posts
1,024
Reaction score
9
Location
UsA
First Name
me
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
k1500
Engine Size
305, 700r4??, 3.42 gears
Aren't the no ac systems easier than the ones with ac?
 

chengny

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Posts
4,086
Reaction score
1,023
Location
NH
First Name
Jerry
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K3500
Engine Size
350/5.7
Yes, the air handling side of a heat only system is easier to drop for a heater core replacement - than is the air handling side of an A/C equipped application.

This is mostly because, with an A/C system, there is far more ductwork that must be disconnected from the main body of the plenum (also all the vacuum hoses to the control dampers have to be disconnected).

The only real ductwork that connects to a heat-only plenum is the "whale-tail" - the piece that supplies the defroster vents from the defroster damper outlet. The floor diffuser doesn't even always have to come off. Even if it does have to be removed, it is only attached with one screw. The controls are just the two (temp and mode) cables.

Here is the procedure for heater core replacement on a 1983 C/K with heat-only:

You must be registered for see images attach



Here is what needs to be done in the engine compartment:

You must be registered for see images attach



And the disconnects to be made on the inside:

You must be registered for see images attach



A hint on removing the little "Jesus Clips" that hold the ends of the control cable on to the actuating arms (this is from a previous post - they were talking about the plastic posts on the HVAC control assembly but the answer applies to the steel posts on the arms as well):

and there are 2 of those spring steel stamped washer things that you push on and thy hold but are a bitch to remove. Most of the time the studs break on me


Early on (after snapping off a few posts - and losing dozens of the Jesus clips), I figured there must be a better method of removing them than just trying to pry them off.

There is ( a better method). Screw them off - like they were little round nuts.

Insert the tip of a small screwdriver under one side of the Jesus clip (and create a light force in the upward direction). That tilts the clip. While maintaining that pressure and tilt, rotate the clip. Generally you can use your fingertips.

The sharp inner edges of the clip will start to cut tiny threads on the post as it rotates and it will begin to climb. Usually you only have to get it started and then you can remove the screwdriver. Keep turning the clip and it will thread right off.

My wife says I need to get a job.
 

MadOgre

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Posts
4,090
Reaction score
51
Location
NA
First Name
NA
Truck Year
NA
Truck Model
NA
Engine Size
NA
What for?
 

chengny

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Posts
4,086
Reaction score
1,023
Location
NH
First Name
Jerry
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K3500
Engine Size
350/5.7
That's what I asked her - course I couldn't just let it stop there. I had to go and ask her "Why don't you get a job?"

I had to make my own supper for a week.
 

MadOgre

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Posts
4,090
Reaction score
51
Location
NA
First Name
NA
Truck Year
NA
Truck Model
NA
Engine Size
NA
Holy crap dude! How long have you been married for lol :cheers:
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,175
Posts
950,931
Members
36,303
Latest member
Spider
Top