DrvnDrvr
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2022
- Posts
- 174
- Reaction score
- 519
- Location
- Central Oregon
- First Name
- Al
- Truck Year
- 78
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 350
Yeah, Glass fuel filters should have never been.
Confusion on fuel and more.
- Thread starter projectmidnight74
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
AuroraGirl
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2019
- Posts
- 9,693
- Reaction score
- 6,875
- Location
- Northern Wisconsin
- First Name
- Taylor
- Truck Year
- 1978, 1980
- Truck Model
- K10, K25
- Engine Size
- 400(?), 350
bad clamp choice, also having a large electrical fuel pump mounted far away from the tank, with a filter before it. you must really want to burn this pump up. mount an mechanical fuel pump to your engine with a return line(3 port), use a small fuel pump between the tank and the mounted fuel pump to combat vapor lock and help prime the line, and the fuel pump on engine regulates its fuel pressure by returning pressure/volume back to the tank
And it involves a lot less fire go boom installation stuff.
AuroraGirl
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2019
- Posts
- 9,693
- Reaction score
- 6,875
- Location
- Northern Wisconsin
- First Name
- Taylor
- Truck Year
- 1978, 1980
- Truck Model
- K10, K25
- Engine Size
- 400(?), 350
nvm its not far from the tank but the bend to the electric pump is gonna start that pump ,and the filter can be next to the pump but it would make more sense to have it by the engine so you can service and view it easierm and have one less clamp connection under neath. also should use hardline when possible
projectmidnight74
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2023
- Posts
- 117
- Reaction score
- 65
- Location
- Mississippi
- First Name
- Eddie
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- V8
We're currently running 2 filters. 1 beside fuel pump and 2nd next to regular
Attachments
projectmidnight74
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2023
- Posts
- 117
- Reaction score
- 65
- Location
- Mississippi
- First Name
- Eddie
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- V8
I am open to suggestions. What ya got.
projectmidnight74
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2023
- Posts
- 117
- Reaction score
- 65
- Location
- Mississippi
- First Name
- Eddie
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- V8
Update 4: we now are able to actually see oil pressure readings and not guess. This again was another difficult task because this thing wasn't easy to get to as I have huge hands and I didn't know what size or what this plug was. So to whomever created a 5/16 anything. I hate you. But, we have learned and conquered a new fear. Now we may still need to replace the dipstick and add oil but this will give proof on where we sit after this long endesvour
Attachments
Rickf
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2017
- Posts
- 574
- Reaction score
- 716
- Location
- Grafton NH
- First Name
- Rick
- Truck Year
- 1974, 1954 & a 1937
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 350
The type that's on your firewall/pressure regulator or the same shape only metal.
Ricko1966
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2017
- Posts
- 5,585
- Reaction score
- 9,065
- Location
- kansas
- First Name
- Rick
- Truck Year
- 1975
- Truck Model
- c20
- Engine Size
- 350
Hate to ruin your good time,but I would redo it. Use much more steel line,lots less rubber hose mount the regulator to the side of the block where the factory mechanical pump would be. Use a steel line all the way from the regulator to the carbureator. Rubber hoses eventually leak. When? Who knows. I've seen more than 1 car catch fire from a leaking rubber hose,cool thing is when they get a pinhole they spray just like a squirt gun all over the engine. When do you notice? When the engine dies,by then it's too late,it died because the fire us now big enough to have burned the fuel line,plug wires,or distributor wire in half. Low on the block in the front allows easy use of factory lines.I'm using a factory pump with no pushrod as my junction and factory lines,with a rear mounted electric pump. Now a leak is on the ground at the right front corner,not on top of the engine. Hopefully you'll notice it,smell it when you park,but even if you don't the chance of ignition is greatly diminished. Pics below of regulator mounted in place of stock mechanical fuel pump.
Attachments
Last edited:
projectmidnight74
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2023
- Posts
- 117
- Reaction score
- 65
- Location
- Mississippi
- First Name
- Eddie
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- V8
Sounds like a good idea to go metal fuel lines next. Agreed.
projectmidnight74
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2023
- Posts
- 117
- Reaction score
- 65
- Location
- Mississippi
- First Name
- Eddie
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- V8
Same shape. Firewall is a low pressure fuel pressure regulator for carbs. other is the circular styled oil pressure gauge going in the a pillar pod on the inside.
projectmidnight74
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2023
- Posts
- 117
- Reaction score
- 65
- Location
- Mississippi
- First Name
- Eddie
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- V8
To be clear. This forum has helped me conquer many fears of motors and building s vehicle. At this point I'm pretty sure I owe some money to quote a few of you. Consider his issue resolved. We now have all pod gauges by glowshift for oil, water and voltage and all working. Fuel level is no longer a confusion issue as we have resolved that as well and the factory gauge now works. It bounces a bit but we know somewhat where our fuel sits while driving. Still working on the speedometer issue but we will get there in time I'm convinced. Thank you guys for all the help. I can't wait to show this thing to the old man soon.
Attachments
75gmck25
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2016
- Posts
- 2,302
- Reaction score
- 2,271
- Location
- Northern Virginia
- First Name
- Bruce
- Truck Year
- 1975
- Truck Model
- K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
- Engine Size
- 5.7
My truck has a ‘74 cluster becsuse I found one with a tach, so I assume my speedometer is the same as yours.
When I first bought a new speedometer cable they sold me one that had a threaded piece on the speedometer end, and I managed to get it to stay behind the spring clip on the speedometer. Didn’t really seem right, but it worked.
When I finally went back and got the correct cable it just had a flared metal end with the square drive sticking out. I pushed it fully into the speedometer and the flared end was then held in place by the spring clip. Much easier, and it holds really well.
When I first bought a new speedometer cable they sold me one that had a threaded piece on the speedometer end, and I managed to get it to stay behind the spring clip on the speedometer. Didn’t really seem right, but it worked.
When I finally went back and got the correct cable it just had a flared metal end with the square drive sticking out. I pushed it fully into the speedometer and the flared end was then held in place by the spring clip. Much easier, and it holds really well.
