Confusion on fuel and more.

[DrvnDrvr]

Yeah, Glass fuel filters should have never been.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Update 3: we have no leaks and fuel pressure. I want to say thank you to this community. I have been into automotive stuff my whole life but never had the guts to touch anything other than electrical work. Today we have successfully completed a fuel line rebuild and relocation of a fuel pump. We will fire today and dial it in. And we will finally see a fuel level with the gauge and have a working speedometer. You guys rock.

bad clamp choice, also having a large electrical fuel pump mounted far away from the tank, with a filter before it. you must really want to burn this pump up. mount an mechanical fuel pump to your engine with a return line(3 port), use a small fuel pump between the tank and the mounted fuel pump to combat vapor lock and help prime the line, and the fuel pump on engine regulates its fuel pressure by returning pressure/volume back to the tank

And it involves a lot less fire go boom installation stuff.

 

[AuroraGirl]

nvm its not far from the tank but the bend to the electric pump is gonna start that pump ,and the filter can be next to the pump but it would make more sense to have it by the engine so you can service and view it easierm and have one less clamp connection under neath. also should use hardline when possible

 

[projectmidnight74]

nvm its not far from the tank but the bend to the electric pump is gonna start that pump ,and the filter can be next to the pump but it would make more sense to have it by the engine so you can service and view it easierm and have one less clamp connection under neath. also should use hardline when possible

We're currently running 2 filters. 1 beside fuel pump and 2nd next to regular

 

[projectmidnight74]

Others will mention, I'm not too keen on that style filter you used before the fuel pump.

I am open to suggestions. What ya got.

 

[projectmidnight74]

Update 4: we now are able to actually see oil pressure readings and not guess. This again was another difficult task because this thing wasn't easy to get to as I have huge hands and I didn't know what size or what this plug was. So to whomever created a 5/16 anything. I hate you. But, we have learned and conquered a new fear. Now we may still need to replace the dipstick and add oil but this will give proof on where we sit after this long endesvour

 

[Rickf]

The type that's on your firewall/pressure regulator or the same shape only metal.

 

[Ricko1966]

Update 3: we have no leaks and fuel pressure. I want to say thank you to this community. I have been into automotive stuff my whole life but never had the guts to touch anything other than electrical work. Today we have successfully completed a fuel line rebuild and relocation of a fuel pump. We will fire today and dial it in. And we will finally see a fuel level with the gauge and have a working speedometer. You guys rock.

Hate to ruin your good time,but I would redo it. Use much more steel line,lots less rubber hose mount the regulator to the side of the block where the factory mechanical pump would be. Use a steel line all the way from the regulator to the carbureator. Rubber hoses eventually leak. When? Who knows. I've seen more than 1 car catch fire from a leaking rubber hose,cool thing is when they get a pinhole they spray just like a squirt gun all over the engine. When do you notice? When the engine dies,by then it's too late,it died because the fire us now big enough to have burned the fuel line,plug wires,or distributor wire in half. Low on the block in the front allows easy use of factory lines.I'm using a factory pump with no pushrod as my junction and factory lines,with a rear mounted electric pump. Now a leak is on the ground at the right front corner,not on top of the engine. Hopefully you'll notice it,smell it when you park,but even if you don't the chance of ignition is greatly diminished. Pics below of regulator mounted in place of stock mechanical fuel pump.

 

[projectmidnight74]

Hate to ruin your good time,but I would redo it. Use much more steel line,lots less rubber hose mount the regulator to the side of the block where the factory mechanical pump would be. Use a steel line all the way from the regulator to the carbureator. Rubber hoses eventually leak. When? Who knows. I've seen more than 1 car catch fire from a leaking rubber hose,cool thing is when they get a pinhole they spray just like a squirt gun all over the engine. When do you notice? When the engine dies,by then it's too late,it died because the fire us now big enough to have burned the fuel line,plug wires,or distributor wire in half. Low on the block in the front allows easy use of factory lines.I'm using a factory pump with no pushrod as my junction and factory lines,with a rear mounted electric pump. Now a leak is on the ground at the right front corner,not on top of the engine. Hopefully you'll notice it,smell it when you park,but even if you don't the chance of ignition is greatly diminished.

Sounds like a good idea to go metal fuel lines next. Agreed.

 

[projectmidnight74]

The type that's on your firewall/pressure regulator or the same shape only metal.

Same shape. Firewall is a low pressure fuel pressure regulator for carbs. other is the circular styled oil pressure gauge going in the a pillar pod on the inside.

 

[projectmidnight74]

To be clear. This forum has helped me conquer many fears of motors and building s vehicle. At this point I'm pretty sure I owe some money to quote a few of you. Consider his issue resolved. We now have all pod gauges by glowshift for oil, water and voltage and all working. Fuel level is no longer a confusion issue as we have resolved that as well and the factory gauge now works. It bounces a bit but we know somewhat where our fuel sits while driving. Still working on the speedometer issue but we will get there in time I'm convinced. Thank you guys for all the help. I can't wait to show this thing to the old man soon.

 

[75gmck25]

My truck has a ‘74 cluster becsuse I found one with a tach, so I assume my speedometer is the same as yours.

When I first bought a new speedometer cable they sold me one that had a threaded piece on the speedometer end, and I managed to get it to stay behind the spring clip on the speedometer. Didn’t really seem right, but it worked.

When I finally went back and got the correct cable it just had a flared metal end with the square drive sticking out. I pushed it fully into the speedometer and the flared end was then held in place by the spring clip. Much easier, and it holds really well.