clunk into reverse or drive

[MadOgre]

Well I thought I would try adjusting my cable with the throttle pedal method and see how that worked but guess what ? I broke my damn throttle cable ! I think my cable is sticking in the adjuster when trying to adjust it. So I guess im replacing both cables.

So I have the same question. Is the universal cable better than the stock one or is there something else that's better ?

 

[HotRodPC]

I just stuck a th350 in my monte that has a shift kit in it, it churps the tires under WOT, but its not as agressive as ide like, so im gonna find me a trans to rebuild and leave the cushions out of it.

So you either only have a Stage 1 kit in it, or someone left the accumulator spring in it. You can take the accumulator spring out of it with out pulling the trans or pulling the pan. Should be a big heavy purple or orange spring. You need a pointed screwdriver or awl, and another screwdriver to pull the snap ring to get the cover off. Taking that spring it is taking the cushion out of the 1-2 shift. If that doesn't work and dual feeding is already done via plates, then Stage 1 holes are drilled out and you'd want another plate to drill out the Stage 2 holes instead. You can't have both drilled out. But chances are, removing the accumulator spring will firm the 1-2 shift. If it's not been done yet.

 

[HotRodPC]

trueish, the harsher the shift, the longer your trans clutches will last, but to harsh is just unpleastent to drive.

If you build a trans and leave the cushion plates out, your clutches will last longer, and it will give you a nice shift.

I would not do that. I can only assume what you mean by cushion plates, which I've never ever heard that terminology in transmission talk, is the wave spring in the drum behind the steels and clutches? There is only 1 drum that gets a wave ring in a Th350 and sometimes the intermediate clutch pack will get a wave ring, but those are NOT cushion plates. Those are intended to be springs to release clutch packs quicker so the clutches don't drag and burn up in between shifts. Cushioning shifts is done with accumulators and fluid pressures.

 

[HotRodPC]

I thin I'm going to drain, change the filter, and refill. Maybe it will help. Probably not

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Check out everything else first. The cheap, and easy to check stuff. If by process of elimination that everything else is good, the suspect the transmission. Changing the fluid is not likely to fix a thing. True, the clunking could very well be a bad U joint, or rear end issue, whatever the case may be. But when you say whining noise, a U joint and Rear end don't do that. A rear can possibly make a howling or growling type noise, but not a whining. I really hate guessing without hearing it myself, but it is a common complaint, clunking and whining which 90% of the time ends up transmission rebuilds. IIRC, it's the pump going bad. The reason for the clunks, is delayed pressure due to a weak pump. Best thing to do, PUT THE E BRAKE ON AND CHOCK A WHEEL. Get under the truck and let someone shift from P to D and P to R and back to D and back to R and be watching the drive shaft and listening for where the clunk is coming from and where the whine is coming from.

 

[flyboy1100]

Check out everything else first. The cheap, and easy to check stuff. If by process of elimination that everything else is good, the suspect the transmission. Changing the fluid is not likely to fix a thing. True, the clunking could very well be a bad U joint, or rear end issue, whatever the case may be. But when you say whining noise, a U joint and Rear end don't do that. A rear can possibly make a howling or growling type noise, but not a whining. I really hate guessing without hearing it myself, but it is a common complaint, clunking and whining which 90% of the time ends up transmission rebuilds. IIRC, it's the pump going bad. The reason for the clunks, is delayed pressure due to a weak pump. Best thing to do, PUT THE E BRAKE ON AND CHOCK A WHEEL. Get under the truck and let someone shift from P to D and P to R and back to D and back to R and be watching the drive shaft and listening for where the clunk is coming from and where the whine is coming from.

you can't hear the whine until about 20mph, the clunk sounds like the transmission or transfer case. kinda like a ringing bell even when you are under the truck.

the fluid is still red, but smells burnt

i'm going to remove the TV cable and measure it, there are 2 options to buy a new one, but they are pretty much based upon length.

 

[Driver4r]

So you either only have a Stage 1 kit in it, or someone left the accumulator spring in it. You can take the accumulator spring out of it with out pulling the trans or pulling the pan. Should be a big heavy purple or orange spring. You need a pointed screwdriver or awl, and another screwdriver to pull the snap ring to get the cover off. Taking that spring it is taking the cushion out of the 1-2 shift. If that doesn't work and dual feeding is already done via plates, then Stage 1 holes are drilled out and you'd want another plate to drill out the Stage 2 holes instead. You can't have both drilled out. But chances are, removing the accumulator spring will firm the 1-2 shift. If it's not been done yet.

When I get my converter im gonna drain the fluid and fill it with trickshift. Ill check then.

 

[HotRodPC]

No sense in spending the big money on Trickshift. Just use Type F. I used Type F in all my performance transmissions never had problems.

 

[flyboy1100]

how do i remove the TV cable from the transmission? i got the bolt out, but I can't seem to move the housing. It is also disconnected from the carb.

i need to get it off so I can order a new one

 

[350runner]

Got to drop the pan

Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[flyboy1100]

Got to drop the pan

Sent from the dust in front of you!

well, i guess that is reason enough to change the filter too.

edit: nevermind, found video

 

[flyboy1100]

found a video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cz9GvbHBj-c

and this.
http://www.tvmadeez.com/tvcable_instructions/tvcable_install.php

i think i just need to pull harder

 

[HotRodPC]

I'm not watching the videos, but you shouldn't have to drop the pan. There should be enough slack to be able to unhook it from the connecting wire to the TV Valve itself.

 

[350runner]

Weren't you going to drop the pan for new fluid and a filter?I would if my fluid smelt burnt...

Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[flyboy1100]

Weren't you going to drop the pan for new fluid and a filter?I would if my fluid smelt burnt...

Sent from the dust in front of you!

Yes I bought the filter, just need more fluid 9qts iirc? Might be less? Forgot my book so I can't look it up.


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[flyboy1100]

I'm not watching the videos, but you shouldn't have to drop the pan. There should be enough slack to be able to unhook it from the connecting wire to the TV Valve itself.

I think the end that bolts in is just stuck after 29 years of probably never being removed.

Got a new cable, still need to remove old one

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