clunk into reverse or drive

[HotRodPC]

Can you get some pliers or channelocks around the housing to get it to spin? If you can spin it, you might be able to get the O ring to come free and let it come out.

So the fluid it bright clean red but smells burnt? hmmm, never seen that before. Usually fluid is at least maroon if it smells burnt but usually is brownish.

 

[MadOgre]

Well I picked up a new throttle cable and a B&M universal TV cable. The B&M thing looks like the ticket and almost $40 cheaper and it looks a lot more durable then the GM one.

GM actually recommended it and the official correct way according to GM is to adjust the cable under the hood at the carburetor not from the pedal inside vehicle. They say it doesn't matter who built the transmission. it needs to be done from the throttle valve to achieve the proper amount of travel

Anyway ill put them on tomorrow.

 

[flyboy1100]

Can you get some pliers or channelocks around the housing to get it to spin? If you can spin it, you might be able to get the O ring to come free and let it come out.

So the fluid it bright clean red but smells burnt? hmmm, never seen that before. Usually fluid is at least maroon if it smells burnt but usually is brownish.

No it is maroon in color. Smells a little burnt, definitely not new fluid.

How many quarts will I need for the drop pan and filter? Want to get it before I leave town for home.



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[flyboy1100]

I got the tv cable and fluid/filter done today. Old tv cable was frayed. I still can't seem to get the cable to auto adjust.
What are the desired shift points? Still shifts into drive pretty hard, but reverse is better. The ringing bell clunk when shifting is gone too. Whine is still there, but only above 20mph as it was before, no whining in park or gear and not moving


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[350runner]

I like mine to shift at 20mph. Glad to hear you got things squared away

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[flyboy1100]

20mph at wot or a partial throttle?

Is it normal for the drive shaft to spin a little when putting the transmission in gear? By a little I mean 1/4 -1/2 turn. I think that is what is causing the clunk and lurch.

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[350runner]

Part throttle/ normal driving. Not grampa but not speedy Gonzales.

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[flyboy1100]

Part throttle/ normal driving. Not grampa but not speedy Gonzales.

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hmm, ok. I pulled the cable out a bit and I think it is shifting to 2nd at around 10-15max so I will push it back in a click or 2.

would be nice to figure out that lurch, but it is probably the trans dieing

 

[350runner]

Dude try 4 clicks back. Then test it.keep your head up trust this trans is not the easiest to setup with out a pressure gauge. I always recommend that vs driving around burning up clutches but people over look my suggestion. So back toward the fire wall 4 clicks. Only drive till it shifts into 1st. Note what speed it shifted 19-21 is a good range I shoot for. This will provide a firm positive shift and not feel like there is a flash in rpms between shifts.

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[HotRodPC]

hmm, ok. I pulled the cable out a bit and I think it is shifting to 2nd at around 10-15max so I will push it back in a click or 2.

would be nice to figure out that lurch, but it is probably the trans dieing

Personally, I would not set my shift points to my speedometer. I like to do it by sound of the motor. Reason being, A guy with 4.56 rear gears better be shifting on a light throttle take off at about 10mph and a guy with 3.08's probably at 18-20mph. I also prefer to set shift based on motor sounds at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle take off. So at say 1/2 throttle, you probably won't see a shift until at least 20 mph even with 4.56's. That's just me though. I throw the book away when it comes to shift points and speedometers. What if you're taking off up a steep hill? Do you still want a shift at 15 mph? Of course not. That's my point, shifts points should be set to engine load and rpm's not a speedometer.

 

[HotRodPC]

I got the tv cable and fluid/filter done today. Old tv cable was frayed. I still can't seem to get the cable to auto adjust.
What are the desired shift points? Still shifts into drive pretty hard, but reverse is better. The ringing bell clunk when shifting is gone too. Whine is still there, but only above 20mph as it was before, no whining in park or gear and not moving


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No piles of metal chunks or mud puddles in the bottom of the pan? Not even a small mud puddle, like about the size of a quarter?

And you're sure this whining is actually whining and not more of howeling? Can you tell yet where it's coming from. Front of the truck or rear?

You know somtimes when I get a weird noise going on in my truck, I try to get on the freeway and get close to the center divider wall. You like being in a construction zone? Notice how the noises are more profound and you can actually get an idea of where they're at as far as front or rear.

So many times I hear people complain about front brake squeal and quite often it's actually the rear brakes and nothing more than excessive brake dust. Take the damn drum off, tap tap on the concrete with the drum, spray brake clean on the shoes and springs with a piece of cardboard underneath to catch the drips, install drum, noise gone.

 

[350runner]

Not trying to step on your feet but engine load and rpms do not dictate throttle valve positions. in a trans. Setting it by sound is just like seeing timing by sound. But hey to each his own.

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[HotRodPC]

20mph at wot or a partial throttle?

Is it normal for the drive shaft to spin a little when putting the transmission in gear? By a little I mean 1/4 -1/2 turn. I think that is what is causing the clunk and lurch.

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1/4 turn maybe, but 1/2 turn is certainly excessive. But, don't freak just yet. With Detroit Lockers, I've seen as much as almost 3/4 of a turn of slop and it's normal. So if you have a Limited Slip Diff (LSD) Or Locker in the rear axle, it's possible that 1/2 is fine. Did you say the U joint's are new on this one? Sorry, I read so many threads, over several days, I forget who is who at times. My truck has tired U joint right now, and has had for months and I know it. I just a pretty good clunk going into Reverse, and it gives me a bit of bell ring tone like you suggest and that's nothing more than the clunk from the bad U joint being transferred through the hollow driveshaft. This bell ring sound is going to be more profound on a longer 1 pc driveshaft than say a 2pc shorter dirveshaft. If you don't know the history of your U joints and as cheap as they are, if you have a bench vise and some patients, and you can consider replacing them as required or needed maintenance then you're not out anything if it's not the fix since it needed done anyway.

 

[HotRodPC]

Not trying to step on your feet but engine load and rpms do not dictate throttle valve positions. in a trans. Setting it by sound is just like seeing timing by sound. But hey to each his own.

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So what your saying is a truck with 5.13 gears, and a truck with 2.73 rear gears should both shift at 15mph? Or a truck pulling a 14,000lb backhoe on a 2,000lb trailer should also shift 15mph vs a truck not carrying a load at all?

Engine load and rpms infact DO NOT dictate throttle valve position at all as you say, BUT, the transmission is looking for a signal from that valve to get the OK to shift. So if you want it to shift ealier, set your throttle valve cable accordingly and it will give the signal earlier, if you want later firmer shifts, then set it accordingly and the signal comes later. Myself, I prefer to have them set a click or 2 later to delay the shift. Reason being this will bring the pressure up since on a 700r4 the reason the TV cable is so critical is because it also measures and set the fluid pressure unlike the detent cable of a Th350. It's better to have a tad higher pressure going into a shift rather than to low of pressure which is where clutches slip and tend to burn up. And you're right, to each their own, and of course I'm sure GM made the book for a reason. I just find it hard to go by the book because it doesn't take all the variables into consideration.

 

[350runner]

Dude if you Re read what I've posted we are both saying the same thing.(really are) shift later... Only diff is you don't say shift at a certain speed. Idk but I've read(many thread) where someone tried shifting by feel and burnt it up quick. Again the reason y I suggest hooking up a pressure gauge... one can be had for less than 20 bucks. Any hoo please read again only diff is I'm saying at speed because if it shifts too hard you can always back down. Honestly I think your one cool **** and like to keep it that way. No hard feeling man.

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