Clearance issues with lowering spindles and what you did about it…

[ChuckN]

Well, since I’m bad about following up- this one I’d for any lurkers out there that may Google search (or search on this forum) “control arm clearance issues “

As mentioned before, CPP gave me the ok to grind the lower control arm at the lower ball joint area to eliminate the 15” rally wheels rubbing metal to metal.

I went after mine with my angle grinder, but not with a grinding wheel, but a sanding wheel. It is easy to shape the metal slowly at your desired speed.

I started slowly, and removed by eyeball. Remember that when the wheels are hanging low while the truck is on jackstands, you WILL have artificial clearance- when the truck is lowered to the ground and the suspension articulates, is where the issue occurs.

I used a thin piece of cardboard as a “feeler gauge “ to slide between the wheel and the control arm. After I was done with the sanding wheel each time, I’d repaint the lower control arm ball joint area and drive it. If it was still rubbing (and it would, even after the “feeler gauge “ test as I’m guessing things still compress a bit) the new paint would show exactly where it was rubbing so I could focus on the area. All told, it was a trial and error process of about 3-4 times. A more experienced person could do it faster, or if they had a lift.

Over and out, PM me or post here if there are questions in the future.

 

[JChevy87R10]

Preciate the thread. the info. In the process of dropping mine so finding this thread was great

 

[ChuckN]

Preciate the thread. the info. In the process of dropping mine so finding this thread was great

How did it go? Sorry I didn’t see this earlier for some reason.

 

[JChevy87R10]

How did it go? Sorry I didn’t see this earlier for some reason.

I'm still piling parts. I will def drop a thread. Right now, I am getting ready to order new spindles, springs. The vision 15x8/15x10 rims, pitman arm, steering box, WC shock mount 4 lowered trucks and some other stuff came.

Getting ready to order:
- Belltech 9908 sway bar setup
- Summit 03-0064 Pump/Regulator setup pushing the fuel in the fuel cell.
- moog 6454 springs
- 2.5" lowering spindles

Nice lil haul already here, even better haul coming next week! I'm excited

 

[ChuckN]

I'm still piling parts. I will def drop a thread. Right now, I am getting ready to order new spindles, springs. The vision 15x8/15x10 rims, pitman arm, steering box, WC shock mount 4 lowered trucks and some other stuff came.

Getting ready to order:
- Belltech 9908 sway bar setup
- Summit 03-0064 Pump/Regulator setup pushing the fuel in the fuel cell.
- moog 6454 springs
- 2.5" lowering spindles

Nice lil haul already here, even better haul coming next week! I'm excited

Nice! Keep us posted.

Cheers,
Chad

 

[ChuckN]

Well, the saga continues.

I had lost a wheel weight somewhere along the way, and decided it was probably time to recheck everything, and get away from the stick-on weights.

Discount Tire rebalanced them with standard crimp on weights. I immediately saw that now they would start hitting tie rod knuckle. No big deal, I’d just take a little material off with the flapper wheel. Then, I noticed an insurmountable problem- it would then wear a hole in the tie rod end boot. The back of the wheel just sits in too far.

So back to another store that is willing to apply stick on weights again- most places won’t do it on steel wheels. Then, I’ll likely have to clearance the caliper bracket so it doesn’t knock off the stick-on weights (I suspect that’s why I’m missing one).

Bottom line, for those who read this, this is what I’ve learned with trying to stay with 15x8” rallies going with a 2.5” drop spindle.

1. They’re fancy and provide ground clearance, but tubular control arms aren’t worth it. Or prepare to have to grind a bit and recheck more than a couple times at the ball joint area.

2. Don’t expect 15x8 rallies to play well with just about anything. Once the spindle moves the wheel upward to lower the vehicle, there’s lots of opportunities for the bottom circumference of the wheel to make contact with many things. The weights will seemingly find something to hit.

If you want to do this in a weekend and be successful, have a 15x7 pair of rallies for the front. I have been looking but everyone that says they have some are actually 15x6.5” van-style. Apparently they don’t solve a thing, because the loss of width is all in the front, and none in the back of the wheel.

Most guys who lower these trucks are going to bigger wheels and that would likely solve everything, but one of my favorite things about my C10 is the stock rallies. This post will likely be the equivalent of shouting in an empty hallway but if one person sees this and it helps, then it will have served its purpose.

Cheers,
Chad

 

[TotalyHucked]

It's not just tubular arms either, stock LCA's have issues as well. I rubbed on both the front ledge of the LCAs and the TRE knuckle when I had my rallies. I clearanced the TRE but never bothered with the LCAs since I knew I'd be doing 20s, I just avoided full lock lol

15x7s do help on some trucks but it's not a guarantee. I'm with you, I much prefer the look of an 8 up front. If it weren't for me not wanting to grind my Wilwoods down a touch, I'd have gotten me some rallies to change up the look from time to time. It's hard to beat that classic look

 

[Soundmound]

Well, the saga continues.

I had lost a wheel weight somewhere along the way, and decided it was probably time to recheck everything, and get away from the stick-on weights.

Discount Tire rebalanced them with standard crimp on weights. I immediately saw that now they would start hitting tie rod knuckle. No big deal, I’d just take a little material off with the flapper wheel. Then, I noticed an insurmountable problem- it would then wear a hole in the tie rod end boot. The back of the wheel just sits in too far.

So back to another store that is willing to apply stick on weights again- most places won’t do it on steel wheels. Then, I’ll likely have to clearance the caliper bracket so it doesn’t knock off the stick-on weights (I suspect that’s why I’m missing one).

Bottom line, for those who read this, this is what I’ve learned with trying to stay with 15x8” rallies going with a 2.5” drop spindle.

1. They’re fancy and provide ground clearance, but tubular control arms aren’t worth it. Or prepare to have to grind a bit and recheck more than a couple times at the ball joint area.

2. Don’t expect 15x8 rallies to play well with just about anything. Once the spindle moves the wheel upward to lower the vehicle, there’s lots of opportunities for the bottom circumference of the wheel to make contact with many things. The weights will seemingly find something to hit.

If you want to do this in a weekend and be successful, have a 15x7 pair of rallies for the front. I have been looking but everyone that says they have some are actually 15x6.5” van-style. Apparently they don’t solve a thing, because the loss of width is all in the front, and none in the back of the wheel.

Most guys who lower these trucks are going to bigger wheels and that would likely solve everything, but one of my favorite things about my C10 is the stock rallies. This post will likely be the equivalent of shouting in an empty hallway but if one person sees this and it helps, then it will have served its purpose.

Cheers,
Chad

Buy bigger rallies? I love the 20" rally wheels, but hot damn they're expensive - hence my Halibrand purchase.

 

[ChuckN]

Buy bigger rallies? I love the 20" rally wheels, but hot damn they're expensive - hence my Halibrand purchase.

Your Halibrand is what I’d get, especially the gold color. 20s are just too big for my tastes, I’d probably go with 18s. I think a brand does make the rallies in 18, but it’s an obscure brand.

Edit- it was Coys. But they only make them in 20” too.

 

[Soundmound]

Your Halibrand is what I’d get, especially the gold color. 20s are just too big for my tastes, I’d probably go with 18s. I think a brand does make the rallies in 18, but it’s an obscure brand.

Edit- it was Coys. But they only make them in 20” too.

The 20" tires were actually as cheap as 18's and cheaper than 19's so I went went the big rollers. We have a ton of wheel well to fill anyway, but I get it we like what we like.