Clearance issues with lowering spindles and what you did about it…

[Ricko1966]

Give this guy a shout.

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[Elliot W]

I’m officially dead in water. I even tried some 1” billet spacers that just showed up. The “hub ring” on the spacer (they said they’re made for my truck, but clearly they’re made for a hubcentric vehicle) are too big to fit in the center hole of the wheel.

I tried a 5/16 spacer but it only leaves about 4 threads for the lug nut, so the studs are too short for that.

If CPP says tomorrow that it’s not safe to grind any of extra that material off, then I really only have three options. Put longer studs in the disc so I CAN run a thin spacer, put back the stock spindle and raise up the rear a little, or new wheels and tires. What a pain in the ass. Should’ve left the damn thing alone.

You’re so close to finishing an awesome suspension setup! Of the 3 options, hammering out and replacing some studs doesn’t seem too awful to make it all work (although after researching and installing everything I can see how it feels like a moving goal post). Hopefully they say it’s ok to grind a little off the arm. Keep it up man it will be worth it!

 

[ChuckN]

You’re so close to finishing an awesome suspension setup! Of the 3 options, hammering out and replacing some studs doesn’t seem too awful to make it all work (although after researching and installing everything I can see how it feels like a moving goal post). Hopefully they say it’s ok to grind a little off the arm. Keep it up man it will be worth it!

Thanks man. I feel like I have a little more wind in the sails this morning. I also discovered a local set of 15x6.5 rallies in good shape for a low price. Yet another option that is revealing itself.

As soon as I can find CPPs phone number and hours I’ll be on the phone with them. And when I’m canceling my alignment appointment this morning, I might ask if they’d press in some longer studs for me as well. I see that AutoZone has some longer Dorman studs in stock locally. Fingers crossed.

 

[Scott91370]

There are two brands of spacers I would use. BORA (which I currently have on my square) and Fred Goeske.

I would bet a paycheck that CPP is not going to say it is safe to grind away material. If they say yes and it fails that is a lawsuit waiting to happen.


P.S. Wipe off that extra grease before it's everywhere under the truck. It's scaring me!

 

[89Suburban]

Hangs in there man, you so close!!

 

[Ricko1966]

I’m officially dead in water. I even tried some 1” billet spacers that just showed up. The “hub ring” on the spacer (they said they’re made for my truck, but clearly they’re made for a hubcentric vehicle) are too big to fit in the center hole of the wheel.

I tried a 5/16 spacer but it only leaves about 4 threads for the lug nut, so the studs are too short for that.

If CPP says tomorrow that it’s not safe to grind any of extra that material off, then I really only have three options. Put longer studs in the disc so I CAN run a thin spacer, put back the stock spindle and raise up the rear a little, or new wheels and tires. What a pain in the ass. Should’ve left the damn thing alone.

Just reread your post about the spacers,put up a pic of your spacers. I may know how to modify the centers to fit your wheels.

 

[ChuckN]

Just reread your post about the spacers,put up a pic of your spacers. I may know how to modify the centers to fit your wheels.

Hey, bud. I just got off the phone with CPP. They gave me the go ahead to remove up to 3/8 inch of material. As for my spacers, they’ve already been shipped back.

 

[ChuckN]

There are two brands of spacers I would use. BORA (which I currently have on my square) and Fred Goeske.

I would bet a paycheck that CPP is not going to say it is safe to grind away material. If they say yes and it fails that is a lawsuit waiting to happen.


P.S. Wipe off that extra grease before it's everywhere under the truck. It's scaring me!

Haha! Yeah, I greased all the ball joints before I lowered it down. Squished all the excess out, just haven’t cleaned it up yet, ha ha

 

[bluex]

I would CAREFULLY cut out /grind the edge of it up to the bottom of the ball joint. That shouldn't affect the strength or how the ball joint stays in. Bad attempt at marking it up but in an arc like this slightly above where it's been rubbing.

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[ChuckN]

I would CAREFULLY cut out /grind the edge of it up to the bottom of the ball joint. That shouldn't affect the strength or how the ball joint stays in. Bad attempt at marking it up but in an arc like this slightly above where it's been rubbing.

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Thanks for that! Great minds think alike. Just got done doing that. Much better. Still have a little screech from somewhere but much improved. Looks like next thing may be time earlier fender wells. Rubbing when turning, “wub wub wub…”

 

[ChuckN]

@bluex in case you ever run across this- CPP just sent me this photo and I’ll likely try to mimic this myself. Turns out that some of their control arms already have this angle taken out and it is structurally sound.

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[bluex]

Yep thats pretty much what I had in mind with my bad drawing

 

[WesN]

I went with 17x8 wheels front and 17x9 wheels on the rear. Before that I kept moving wheel weight or knocking them off with the stock 8” wheels. Liked the stock wheels but like the lowered look better.

 

[TotalyHucked]

Nice! Glad you got the OK to clearance the arms

 

[LocoLocal]

@bluex in case you ever run across this- CPP just sent me this photo and I’ll likely try to mimic this myself. Turns out that some of their control arms already have this angle taken out and it is structurally sound.

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Wish they would sell the control arms for our trucks like this (with the angle already taken out) so we didn't have to chop them up!