Camshaft Question

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davbell22602

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I wouldn't use moly rings for a rering motor. Its hard enough as it is to get Moly rings to seat in a new fresh bore with a good Sunnen hone job, and going to be even harder yet with a ball hone job and the rings fitting a hair looser. What makes you think you need moly rings in this motor? You running nitrous or a turbo on it? HI compression? Sure moly lasts longer, IF you can get them to seat and find a good home in the cylinder. Chrome Moly rings are even harder yet, and ductile iron or plasma moly even harder there yet. I'd likely just go with some standard cast rings, or quick seat rings. You're not expecting a million miles out of a re ring motor I'd hope. 80-100K is about all you shoud be expecting on a rering old school motor IMO. And again,you're there, I'd replace the main bearings too just because and I woudln't worry about the cam bearings.

My teacher told me to go with moly rings cause they last longer but the more I think about it I really could just use iron rings instead. This truck isnt gonna be a DD anyways. I'm antique tags on it. Will be driven once a week at the most in winter and few times week in spring summer fall.
 

HotRodPC

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My teacher told me to go with moly rings cause they last longer but the more I think about it I really could just use iron rings instead. This truck isnt gonna be a DD anyways. I'm antique tags on it. Will be driven once a week at the most in winter and few times week in spring summer fall.

You can use the moly rings if you want. They will likely last a bit longer and tolerate more heat if you should overheat the motor or have alot of detonation or vapor lock issues, but you better hone it good, and find some NON Detergent motor oil to break the motor in with. I'd run non detergent for the first 5000 miles or so to make sure you get them seated. And go ahead and put a 195 thermostat in it too for break in. Higher heat helps with break in, then since its old school motor, change the thermostat back to a 180 after 5000 miles. HIghter heat, and non detergent (not as slick) oil will eventurally get it done if you have a good hone job.Myself, Id go cast iron rings for a rering, back up vehicle that will be low performance.
 

davbell22602

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You can use the moly rings if you want. They will likely last a bit longer and tolerate more heat if you should overheat the motor or have alot of detonation or vapor lock issues, but you better hone it good, and find some NON Detergent motor oil to break the motor in with. I'd run non detergent for the first 5000 miles or so to make sure you get them seated. And go ahead and put a 195 thermostat in it too for break in. Higher heat helps with break in, then since its old school motor, change the thermostat back to a 180 after 5000 miles. HIghter heat, and non detergent (not as slick) oil will eventurally get it done if you have a good hone job.Myself, Id go cast iron rings for a rering, back up vehicle that will be low performance.

OK, The 30 over iron ring set is $63.79 and the moly is $87.79.
 

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I need a second opinion on replacing the pistons. The pistons have surface scoring on the skirts but can be sanded out with emory cloth and reused. Same goes with clyinders too but can taken out with a cylinder hone.
 

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I need a second opinion on replacing the pistons. The pistons have surface scoring on the skirts but can be sanded out with emory cloth and reused. Same goes with clyinders too but can taken out with a cylinder hone.

As long as the pistons don't have gouges that will scratch the cylinders then go for it. Normally you don't need to sand them with emery cloth either. Just clean them in some solvent, mineral sprits, purple **** or something. Just clean them and use them. The scuffs on the skirts are from dirty oil and **** getting between the piston and cylinder wall. But the pistons actually don't scrub the cylinders, the rings do, so there is enough room for junk to get in between the skirts and cylinder walls. Just clean them and run them. No need to spend alot of time on them.
 

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As long as the pistons don't have gouges that will scratch the cylinders then go for it. Normally you don't need to sand them with emery cloth either. Just clean them in some solvent, mineral sprits, purple **** or something. Just clean them and use them. The scuffs on the skirts are from dirty oil and **** getting between the piston and cylinder wall. But the pistons actually don't scrub the cylinders, the rings do, so there is enough room for junk to get in between the skirts and cylinder walls. Just clean them and run them. No need to spend alot of time on them.

OK, gotcha
 

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OK, gotcha

Now, what is important, is that you get the ring grooves clean. A piece of junk in the groove can push the ring out or affect the tolerance. Also can affect the oiling of the rings, and the expander on the lower rings. You're into buying tools, there is such things as a piston ring groove cleaner. Those work great and will have a spin dial on it to adjust for different size ring grooves.
 

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Now, what is important, is that you get the ring grooves clean. A piece of junk in the groove can push the ring out or affect the tolerance. Also can affect the oiling of the rings, and the expander on the lower rings. You're into buying tools, there is such things as a piston ring groove cleaner. Those work great and will have a spin dial on it to adjust for different size ring grooves.

Piston ring groove cleaner with a spin dial. I'll check it out.
 

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Piston ring groove cleaner with a spin dial. I'll check it out.

And really, you don't need the groove cleaner either, you can take one of the old rings, break it in half or a 1/3 and use the old rings to scrape insde the grooves, so if the tool is not something you'll use often, which its not, and its pricey, you can improvise. I don't have one myself since I rarely re ring a motor, I normally do a full rebuild with new pistons if I do a motor, especially these days. But I do have one in the garage that is gonna get re rund and a valve job on the heads. It's be good as new though since the cylinders are in tolerace of a new bore.
 

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Worth it's weight in gold if you plan on rebuilding motors when you get out of school. If you are going to just build motors once in a while, do what HRPC said with an old ring, and just make sure you clean the grooves with solvent.

There is one thing I would suggest you get, if you don't have one, is a pair of ring pliers. I know there are guys out there that can put rings in by putting the one end in, and walking it around the piston, you take a chance of screwing up the ring, or piston, or bending a ring. I bought mine a Sears for like $15-$20 dollars.
 

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Worth it's weight in gold if you plan on rebuilding motors when you get out of school. If you are going to just build motors once in a while, do what HRPC said with an old ring, and just make sure you clean the grooves with solvent.

There is one thing I would suggest you get, if you don't have one, is a pair of ring pliers. I know there are guys out there that can put rings in by putting the one end in, and walking it around the piston, you take a chance of screwing up the ring, or piston, or bending a ring. I bought mine a Sears for like $15-$20 dollars.

I got both types of piston rings piliers. The claw type and pilier type.
 

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Not a bad idea. I've built many motors, and never used ring pliers, but, I have also broke 2 rings too. Its a real bitch when in the middle of a build, you have to locate and find a set of rings for one cylinder and you only use one ring of the set. It sucks breaking rings. I normally put my rings while in a comfy stress free environment, like watching TV or something to where I am not getting in a hurry and relaxed and chilled out so I'm not so rough with them. Of course the ring pliers will prevent broken rings MOST of the time, and much faster install.
 

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Found a tiny/small crack in a piston today. So gonna replace all the pistons now.
 

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