Camshaft Question

[HotRodPC]

Ok, I'll see about checking them with a bore gauge. The main and rod bearings are 020 USA.

So you're saying the motor has had the crank turned before? That would likley mean its been re rung or rebuilt before. Check those pistons good for over markings like .030, .040 or .060. So if you're dead set on not boring it, since your teacher knows best, then why buy alll new pistons. Just buy one that you jacked up. You can buy pistons as singles.

 

[konakustoms]

if you are using a sunnen bore guage or any guage borrowed then make shure it is all the same temp if you are carying it around from place to place.....It will give a improper reading!!!!

 

[89Suburban]

I build alot of performance motors at work & yes you can reuse a cam with new lifters, we have done it alot.....just break the cam and New lifters in like a new cam setup with zink additive...

Really?

 

[davbell22602]

So you're saying the motor has had the crank turned before? That would likley mean its been re rung or rebuilt before. Check those pistons good for over markings like .030, .040 or .060. So if you're dead set on not boring it, since your teacher knows best, then why buy alll new pistons. Just buy one that you jacked up. You can buy pistons as singles.

The pistons have 30 stamped on them. If the cylinders are out of round then I'll bore it to 40 or 60 depending on availabilty on engine kits. My understands what your saying now about the cylinders being out round. He just see didnt the point of doing if the cylinders werent out of round.

 

[konakustoms]

Really?

Yep thats rite sir

 

[konakustoms]

The pistons have 30 stamped on them. If the cylinders are out of round then I'll bore it to 40 or 60 depending on availabilty on engine kits. My understands what your saying now about the cylinders being out round. He just see didnt the point of doing if the cylinders werent out of round.

there o3o pistons most likly sir

 

[HotRodPC]

The pistons have 30 stamped on them. If the cylinders are out of round then I'll bore it to 40 or 60 depending on availabilty on engine kits. My understands what your saying now about the cylinders being out round. He just see didnt the point of doing if the cylinders werent out of round.

OK, now where getting somewhere. BUT, what comes to my mind, is that you told me your teacher has mic'ed your block and said it does not need to be bored. He also suggested to use Moly rings on a re ring job, which is a no no, and I have back up now to say the same thing. So here is where I lose all credibility with your teacher. If he measured your block for you, why didn't he tell you this this block has already been bored .030 over??? Did he really KNOW what he was measuring and what spec was he using and where did he get the spec from?
On another note, if the motor has been rebuilt before, now you have to wonder how much use did it really get, and there is a good likely hood you don't need a bore. How does the crosshatching look in the cylinders? Does it go all the way thru the cyliders? Is there any kind of ridge whatsoever at the top of the cylinder where the top ring lands? If crosshatching is present and well definded, no ridge to speak of, then I'd use a ball hone and freshen up the crosshatching, REPLACE THE ONE PISTON YOU BROKE, and I'd put it back together. For real, its OK to replace one piston. It might even be a hair different than the rest, but just so long as it its got the same dish, or flat top liike the rest of them, and ring groove sizes and run it. No need in buying a full set of pistons when you only need one. If you needed, 3 or 4 pistons, then yes, I'd probably go with a whole set cuz buy the time you buy them at singles pricing, it woudln't be far off from a full set anyway. You're not the frist one to break a piston. Its common for a builder to have one fall out of the block off the engine stand and break a skirt off. Some guys even run the piston with part of the skirt broke off. I won't do it, but point is, it's not big deal to replace 1 piston as needed.

 

[konakustoms]

This teacher has no clue!! Whats this teacher teach...Autobody????? Take the block to someone who knows whats up....A machine shop will check it for ya for free most likely. Or have someone who knows somthing look at your parts......

 

[davbell22602]

OK, now where getting somewhere. BUT, what comes to my mind, is that you told me your teacher has mic'ed your block and said it does not need to be bored. He also suggested to use Moly rings on a re ring job, which is a no no, and I have back up now to say the same thing. So here is where I lose all credibility with your teacher. If he measured your block for you, why didn't he tell you this this block has already been bored .030 over??? Did he really KNOW what he was measuring and what spec was he using and where did he get the spec from?
On another note, if the motor has been rebuilt before, now you have to wonder how much use did it really get, and there is a good likely hood you don't need a bore. How does the crosshatching look in the cylinders? Does it go all the way thru the cyliders? Is there any kind of ridge whatsoever at the top of the cylinder where the top ring lands? If crosshatching is present and well definded, no ridge to speak of, then I'd use a ball hone and freshen up the crosshatching, REPLACE THE ONE PISTON YOU BROKE, and I'd put it back together. For real, its OK to replace one piston. It might even be a hair different than the rest, but just so long as it its got the same dish, or flat top liike the rest of them, and ring groove sizes and run it. No need in buying a full set of pistons when you only need one. If you needed, 3 or 4 pistons, then yes, I'd probably go with a whole set cuz buy the time you buy them at singles pricing, it woudln't be far off from a full set anyway. You're not the frist one to break a piston. Its common for a builder to have one fall out of the block off the engine stand and break a skirt off. Some guys even run the piston with part of the skirt broke off. I won't do it, but point is, it's not big deal to replace 1 piston as needed.

My teacher and I used telescopic gauge but gonna do it right with a bore gauge to be sure. There's no ridge at the top but is surface scatches on the cylinders and pistons except for that lightly surface build up. I didnt crack the piston. Its cracked on the side to the left of the piston pin hole about 1/4 inch. My teacher didnt see the top the of the pistons til I saw the stamped 30 on them myself.

I found a complete engine kit for $400 free shipping from these guys. They sell engine tech engine kits thats part of this company which are a official supplier of IROC .International Race Of Champions.

http://www.apmengineparts.com/ford-6-4-390-v8-1968-1973-engine-kit.html

 

[HotRodPC]

Really?

Yep, and I do believe I also told you that long ago 89S. I'm liking having Brad around. I've finally got some back up. No only for back up, I sure don't mind being corrected when I'm wrong.

 

[davbell22602]

This teacher has no clue!! Whats this teacher teach...Autobody????? Take the block to someone who knows whats up....A machine shop will check it for ya for free most likely. Or have someone who knows somthing look at your parts......

Nothing is free in my town.

 

[HotRodPC]

My teacher and I used telescopic gauge but gonna do it right with a bore gauge to be sure. There's no ridge at the top but is surface scatches on the cylinders and pistons except for that lightly surface build up. I didnt crack the piston. Its cracked on the side to the left of the piston pin hole about 1/4 inch. My teacher didnt see the top the of the pistons til I saw the stamped 30 on them myself.

I found a complete engine kit for $400 free shipping from these guys. They sell engine tech engine kits thats part of this company which are a official supplier of IROC .International Race Of Champions.

http://www.apmengineparts.com/ford-6-4-390-v8-1968-1973-engine-kit.html

And you probably didn't see the .030, til I mentioned to be sure to check for that after you mentioned the bearings were .020. You telling me the bearings were .020 was a clue that the motor had been opened up, and you need to check it. It could have just been a crank kit put in it for a rod knock, but as you found out by looking at the pistons and investigating, the whole motor has been remanufactured in the past. My point about the teacher is, IF HE MEASURED the cylinders and told you they were good, then he should have been able to tell you, this motor has been bored .030 over before.

 

[konakustoms]

like I said before you can only check a bore correctly with a bore guage like a sunnen and make shure the block & guage are both the same temperature because it will not be a correct reading! Just for fun check it when ya get there and let them temp out together then check the bores again, you will be amazed at the difference. And check the bores in the area the piston rides in 3 different places up and down the bore then do the same on the sides.

 

[HotRodPC]

Nothing is free in my town.

********. Even attorneys give a free consultation IF you are acting with intent to hire them. So if the machinist feels he is going to get the work on your build, he will mic it all out for FREE. He has to do this so he knows what to advise you to have done. I've said this before, you need to find a machinist you can trust just like you do your family Dr. Why? Because that is actually what your machinist is. He is the surgeon on your engine build. As I said, get one you can trust. Sometimes a crooked machinist will tell you IT MUST BE BORED, when it doesn't need it. That's how he gets work. IF everyone brought a good block to him, he'd be broke.
You need to lean the tell tale signs. Like I suggested, how is the crosshatching in the cylinder? You can use a telescoping guage and compare the top of the cylinder, to the middle of the cylinder and the bottom of the cylinder. If all 3 are equal, its a good sign the block does NOT need a bore. If it has a deep ridge at the top, it likley needs bored. Do you have anyone local that can help you with this Dave? And I can honestly say, I don't think your teacher is going to be the one. He may be good a text book, but he's not good at hands on. I've already decided that.

 

[davbell22602]

And you probably didn't see the .030, til I mentioned to be sure to check for that after you mentioned the bearings were .020. You telling me the bearings were .020 was a clue that the motor had been opened up, and you need to check it. It could have just been a crank kit put in it for a rod knock, but as you found out by looking at the pistons and investigating, the whole motor has been remanufactured in the past. My point about the teacher is, IF HE MEASURED the cylinders and told you they were good, then he should have been able to tell you, this motor has been bored .030 over before.

The mains were 020 also meaning the crank was turned. The teacher knew it was 30 over when he measured it but that time I already found out that they were 30 over. I knew the pistons were 30 over before christmas. I sanded the top of one to see what I had.