Cab Rust Woes

[TheRustMan]

Hey, all! My brother and I recently purchased our first project truck, a 76 C10. I will readily admit I didnt do enough research before hand on what rust areas are really bad, and I think it might have bit me here. Overall, the truck is great, almost no rust on the bed, front fenders, or hood, but the cab around the door frames is kinda rough...just hoping it isnt totally shot.

Ive attached pictures below so you can get an idea of what I'm working with, and basically I just need some advice. Yes, i know that the "right" way to fix this is to get a donor cab and cut out sections, but frankly I would rather just slap some bondo over it if that would work. I am also not opposes to doing a new roof skin if that would replace some of the upper door jamb rust. Not going for a show truck at all, more of a work/utility use, so perfect fixes arent necessarily my priority. Just have it look good-ish for a few years while I enjoy the truck.

Thanks for any/all input!
Hayden

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I hate to bear bad news. But that's pretty rough right there. I don't think it'll ever be 100% without stripping everything from the roof down. Even then I'm sure the cowl and kick panels aren't any better as well as the rear corners of the cab. That's A LOT of sheet metal work to get into.

I'm scrapping a cab for much less than that, it also doesn't have a title and was $100, so there's that.

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this is in that trucks future as well. Mine is clean on the outside but the mice got in between the inner and outer layer and just wrecked this one.

 

[TheRustMan]

I hate to bear bad news. But that's pretty rough right there. I don't think it'll ever be 100% without stripping everything from the roof down. Even then I'm sure the cowl and kick panels aren't any better as well as the rear corners of the cab. That's A LOT of sheet metal work to get into.

I'm scrapping a cab for much less than that, it also doesn't have a title and was $100, so there's that.

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this is in that trucks future as well. Mine is clean on the outside but the mice got in between the inner and outer layer and just wrecked this one.

Yeah, unfortunately that was the same conclusion I came to, as well. Oddly enough, though, the cab corners look great. There is a little rust on the middle of the B pillar, but somehow the cab corners are great. And, the inside of the cab is immaculate (for now). Not a spec of rust anywhere other than the floor pans/rockers which I was expecting out of any truck for $3500. Ya live and ya learn, i guess. Thank ya!

 

[Bennyt]

I don't know what the plans are for the truck. I'd blast/ dip the cab and see what you got. In AZ, nice cabs are $500.

 

[RecklessWOT]

I'd have to assume that thing was sitting a LONG time, probably a bunch of pine needles or leaves or whatever built up in that gap and rotted away. I can't say I've ever seen that before. Too bad because that's a decent amount of work, but realistically nothing is beyond repair, just depends on how much work you're willing to put into it.

IMO, your truck is not nearly as bad as the one prariedrifter posted, if I were you I'd try to fix it

 

[TheRustMan]

I'd have to assume that thing was sitting a LONG time, probably a bunch of pine needles or leaves or whatever built up in that gap and rotted away. I can't say I've ever seen that before. Too bad because that's a decent amount of work, but realistically nothing is beyond repair, just depends on how much work you're willing to put into it.

IMO, your truck is not nearly as bad as the one prariedrifter posted, if I were you I'd try to fix it

Okay, thats actually really nice to hear. Do you think something as simple as sanding down and slappin some bondo on there would work? As a short term fix, obviously welding and patch panels is the only "right" fix, which im not opposed to but I really just dont have the time to fix it that well just yet.

 

[fast 99]

We aren't as dry as AZ but there are good cabs in the NW. Might want to check salvage yards for a possible donor. There are actually 3 right now in one pick and pull yard that are decent, might need corners. They will be crushed.

I have used this site for various items.

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

 

[RecklessWOT]

Okay, thats actually really nice to hear. Do you think something as simple as sanding down and slappin some bondo on there would work? As a short term fix, obviously welding and patch panels is the only "right" fix, which im not opposed to but I really just dont have the time to fix it that well just yet.

In the short term, yeah it could work. I'd go a little more aggressive than sanding it down, maybe take a grinder to it until you see bare metal in most places, and the worst parts well there's only so much you can do. A rust converter or sealer of sorts would be good after that, and hit it with some filler (bondo), that should buy you a few years.

But I do see some holes (albeit small ones) that go all the way through. That tells me that even in the places where it's not completely rotted away to nothing, I'm sure the rust has penetrated all the way through and if you only fixed up the outward facing side, eventually that cancer will come back through. The only real way to completely eliminate it is to cut the fully rusty areas out and weld (or potentially even use fiberglass if small enough area) to patch the holes you made. Your idea would work to make a nice driver for a few years as long as you're not going for a show truck, might even be good enough to sell it if you decide not to keep it long term. But that won't work forever, rust is a b!tch. At least you live in the south and rust is not as aggressive as it is up here

 

[Grit dog]

What @RecklessWOT said.
Unfortunately you picked a truck that has rust where most all don’t. And in difficult 2-3 layers of steel areas.
Looks like it sat under pine trees for a couple decades and never cleaned up or dried out.
You haven’t showed anything from around the windshield and back window but highly likely that is rotted out too. Like under the window gaskets.
Of course you can cut out, fill with foam and bondo and it might last a couple years if you park it indoors every night and generally keep it out of the weather, but what you posted would have me re-thinking my plans if I were in your position.
That said we don’t really know what your plans are for “fixing it up.”
Suspect you’re unsure of that yourself.
My go to move would be to try to get $3500 back out of it. Although most will identify those problems right away and likely walk away from that unless there is some real money or value in the other parts of the truck.

I would pop out the front and back windows first and assess that damage if you’re serious about moving forward with it.
I would not remove the windows if you find rust through under the seals and there is a potential you’re not going to repair it all.
Good luck

 

[vr1967]

I’ve got a cab in Mississippi that the floors and firewall are toast but the roof, dash and back wall are in great shape.
Also have an 84 that has rust like yours. Always said I would take the two and make one good one to save a truck, but will probably never get around to it

 

[TheRustMan]

Thanks everybody for the feedback! If it wasnt clear before, I'm going for a "goin ta town rig" and work-esque truck, so show-truck quality is not really a priority. Think 100ft show truck lol.

Based on whats been suggested, I think for now I'm just gonna grind it down, slap some bondo on there, give her the ole rattle can + clear coat, and maybe do a real fix in a few years if I feel like I want to keep the truck. If not, I'll enjoy it for a while and pass it on. Not to mention there are about 1 million C10s for sale in TN, but almost no cabs. Oh, and ive never welded before (on the to-learn list for floor pans). Thanks again for all input, this has been a real weight on my shoulders. Definitely gonna run from rust like this in the future, but I've always learned lessons the hard way.

 

[Grit dog]

Well, good luck.
That said, once you cut out all the bad stuff and hopefully have enough meat left everywhere. Burn up a can of that rust reformer stuff with the long tube, on the inside before you start shoving newspaper and spray foam in the holes.
Make sure you’re not bondoing actual rust. And buy quality bondo. That’ll give it a fightin chance anyways.

 

[TJ1978]

Depends of the goal and purpose of the vehicle... for a full frame off restoration it's not a good thing. But for a cruiser around town that runs and drives I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[peats]

Bondo isn't going to do anything for the lost structural integrity and the more you hammer out the rust the more damage will appear.I would swap that cab and take a welding course.

 

[Grit dog]

Bondo isn't going to do anything for the lost structural integrity and the more you hammer out the rust the more damage will appear.I would swap that cab and take a welding course.

I wouldn’t likely be concerned about any loss of structural integrity from the pics he posted. It’s just ugly difficult areas to repair.