C10 lift kit?? 7 inches?!?!

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Frankenchevy

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OD of tire, width of tire, wheel offset, etc will all determine what you can fit at a given height.

If you are putting a 30” rim on the truck, something tells me you aren’t concerned with unsprung weight. On the bright side, you will get pretty proficient at changing ball joints and wheel bearings.
 

randomTruckKid

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OD of tire, width of tire, wheel offset, etc will all determine what you can fit at a given height.

If you are putting a 30” rim on the truck, something tells me you aren’t concerned with unsprung weight. On the bright side, you will get pretty proficient at changing ball joints and wheel bearings.
How can I reduce the load on the ball joints then? I'm still learning abt cars so excuse my stupidity.
 
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randomTruckKid

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How can I reduce the load on the ball joints then? I'm still learning abt cars so excuse my stupidity.
Also what would the ball joint wear be on the other setup like project rocky with the obs ball joints and stuff?
 

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Balljoints don't like big, heavy wheels that stick out way past the mounting face. That's why all factory trucks come with a much narrower setup, for longevity of the front end parts. Think of it this way, if you stand up and hold a 6" long ruler straight out, it's easy. Try doing that with a 16' long 4x4. That's basically what a balljoint is dealing with when you put huge offset wheels on
 

randomTruckKid

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Balljoints don't like big, heavy wheels that stick out way past the mounting face. That's why all factory trucks come with a much narrower setup, for longevity of the front end parts. Think of it this way, if you stand up and hold a 6" long ruler straight out, it's easy. Try doing that with a 16' long 4x4. That's basically what a balljoint is dealing with when you put huge offset wheels on
Ah I see. So how can I fix that then while still keeping a simalar style wheele? Or how long would a ball joint with that current wheele that I want?
 

Frankenchevy

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All kidding aside, the “stanced” thing is purely for the aesthetic you want. Just understand that it will increase maintenance on the truck and negatively impact every characteristic I can think of including handling, ride quality, braking performance, acceleration, fuel efficiency, etc.

If you are good with all that, what you are after can be done. If the OD of the tire ends up being a 35-37, the height of lift you are looking at is in the ballpark. 35s on a half ton will need 4 or 5” as far as I’m aware.
 

randomTruckKid

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All kidding aside, the “stanced” thing is purely for the aesthetic you want. Just understand that it will increase maintenance on the truck and negatively impact every characteristic I can think of including handling, ride quality, braking performance, acceleration, fuel efficiency, etc.

If you are good with all that, what you are after can be done. If the OD of the tire ends up being a 35-37, the height of lift you are looking at is in the ballpark. 35s on a half ton will need 4 or 5” as far as I’m aware.
Ok. I'm fine with most of that stuff. It gets quite hard to be worse than my old run down 2007 6.0 that I drove for a few months.

Is there a way (still lifting obviously) where I can reduce the wear? I guess I should say it's not 100% for astetic it's more like 75%.
The truck will see plenty of gravel roads. Some being kinda rough. Or going through 3 or 4" of water once or twice a year. Most time it will be driven into town 1 or 2 times a day. (10 miles)

I'm assuming we're talking about doing the way they did it on project rocky with the obs ball joints and stuff in there?

I like the "stanced" look like many teenagers with trucks. But not a necessity.
 

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If you're going to be driving gravel roads you don't want wheels that stick out, nor wide wheels. You'd be better suited in a more stock configuration. You can lift the truck and still run taller tires, while keeping the wheels tucked in. I have driven plenty of dirt roads, all of them washboarded, and any truck with wide tires or wheels that stuck out made the drive unpleasant. Trucks with stock wheels were way better even with a little larger tire on them. Washboard is bad enough, compounding it with a bad setup is just making things worse.
 

randomTruckKid

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If you're going to be driving gravel roads you don't want wheels that stick out, nor wide wheels. You'd be better suited in a more stock configuration. You can lift the truck and still run taller tires, while keeping the wheels tucked in. I have driven plenty of dirt roads, all of them washboarded, and any truck with wide tires or wheels that stuck out made the drive unpleasant. Trucks with stock wheels were way better even with a little larger tire on them. Washboard is bad enough, compounding it with a bad setup is just making things worse.
I'm completely fine with not having the big wide tires.
I want a lift + bigger tires. Width dosnt matter much to me.
 

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TotalyHucked

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Yeah there's really no way to avoid the wear and tear with wide wheels. That said, something like a x9 or a x10 won't really hurt anything. It's when you start getting into x12+ that it starts to cause issues with ball joints and wheel bearings
 

randomTruckKid

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Yeah there's really no way to avoid the wear and tear with wide wheels. That said, something like a x9 or a x10 won't really hurt anything. It's when you start getting into x12+ that it starts to cause issues with ball joints and wheel bearings
Ah I see. Any recommendations for sizes to start off on?
Tires won't be acually bought and put on until I'm probobly almost done w/ the intirior of the car (a long time) for now we're just going to keep the current wheeles.
 
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