Brake line repair

[Wes P]

Does anyone else have feedback about using compression fittings to join brake lines in the middle? Is it a common repair? Is anyone using one on their own vehicle?

 

[Wes P]

Does anyone else have feedback about using compression fittings to join brake lines in the middle? Is it a common repair? Is anyone using one on their own vehicle?

Never mind. I asked Google: http://www.brakeconnect.com/top-3-reasons-not-to-use-brake-line-compression-fittings

 

[AuroraGirl]

Just because of the shock of Pressure in brake lines, vibration, etc, i would be cautious with using compression fittings. I would, in my own personal car, trust it if i went back and made sure was still tight, and use thread locker

 

[Ricko1966]

IDK if you are still messing with this but you should be able to buy 2 premade lines and join them with the correct coupler if you can't buy a premade line long enough.If you can get close but to long put a bend in the line or even a loop you can make it pretzel shaped if you want as long as your flares and fittings are right. Over the years I've been many rear brakelines repaired with compression fittings.Can't say I'd recommend it but seen it done many times.I definitely wouldn't try it on a front line or a disc line.

 

[Wes P]

Fixed. Thank you all very much for sharing your experience and ideas. Summary and notes:

1. Compression fittings are not safe for on-highway vehicles and are illegal in some states. Better suited for low-speed off-highway vehicles.
2. Auto parts store flaring tools are crap. Don't bother.
3. I made a new line (inverted/double flare) using Titan tool 51535 for 3/16" lines. The tube-positioning hard stop supplied with this tool should not be used. You need to adjust the end position of the tube exactly on center with the line in the casting. Use plenty of the supplied grease on the dies.
4. When making a new brake line, I highly recommend to use new threaded fittings.
5. It is absolutely necessary to tighten, loosen, tighten fittings to "seat" the flares. Fittings will thread farther in each time they are tightened on a new flare. Being gentle, it could take 8-10 cycles for the "tight" position to stop changing, for the "seating" process to complete. I recommend this procedure when replacing any part of any flare joint/seal.
6. I used a small mount of anti-seize on the fittings as recommended here (on threads, tube, and flare sealing surface). I think this helped and, IMO, is a must-have for serviceability.

Take good care,
Wes

 

[Wes P]

PS. The $200 vise-mount cam-lever flaring tool from TGR (Amazon) was missing a die so I returned it and went with the simplest solution: Titan 51535

 

[Blue Ox]

Great that you got it worked out. Thanks for the thorough follow-up.

 

[HOTFOOT]

You are using compression fittings mid-way on brake lines in your own vehicle? If so, for how long have they been working for you?

You are the second person to recommend this to me. I saw this as a risk, adding 2 additional points with potential to leak, so I didn't try it.

compression fittings are not DOT approved

 

[SquareRoot]

You are using compression fittings mid-way on brake lines in your own vehicle? If so, for how long have they been working for you?

When he quits posting, well know they are no longer working.

 

[highdesertrange]

well you guys beat me to it. Compression fittings are illegal. highdesertranger

 

[TubeTruck]

I carry compression fittings to use in a pinch to get me home, but never for a permanent fix. I have the Rigid flare kit but I do like that Eastwood kit. I might have to upgrade at some point.