Boxed Frame or not?

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TPISly-C10

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I would like to box my frame to reinforce it partly not completely only to make it stiffer what do you think? show me your frame boxed thx
 

Vbb199

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I gusss i must ask, being a 2wd with presumably a n/a 6.0

Why?
 

TPISly-C10

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I gusss i must ask, being a 2wd with presumably a n/a 6.0

Why?
because tired of the flemzy frame twisting in hard cornering or on bumpy road...got a stiff ride need a stiffer frame to go with it? ;)
 

85K304SPD

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You will probably have to strip it down to the bare frame and re-locate all the fuel lines, brake lines etc...Just a thought. Maybe a suspension modification will be more effective.
 

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I don't think it needs to be boxed. I would add the carrier bearing crossmember from a longbed and Ridetech front frame braces. On my son's truck there is virtually zero flex between that and the welded in c-notch.

I do think to add the carrier bearing crossmember the frame has to be stretched open which won't be possible on a running truck.

GSI and Porterbilt have additional crossmembers that bolt in if you can't do the carrier bearing
 

Keith Seymore

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I'd put a roll cage in it before I'd box the frame. Run the down bars through the back window and attach to the frame through the box floor.

That would give you a lot more triangulation, up high, to control any flex between the cab and the box. I don't think you are getting much flex otherwise, number one because truck frames are pretty rigid (by design, in view of their intended usage) compared to a passenger car frame (which is very floppy), and because the cab and the box are providing some structure over their respective areas of the frame.

K
 

Vbb199

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How hard can you possibly be cornering to cause the frame to flex?
I did a full suspension replacement on my 1500 burb and i can take pretty sharp curves and corners in it at normal, modern vehicle speeds with no frame flex , even faster. Fast enough to make tires start sliding

Like keith said, (and where i was going with the n/a 6.0 comment), if youre not making enough power to warrant boxing, let the frame flex a little, or cage it

In my opinion boxing it is only making the frame vunerable to cracking or breaking because theres nothing to "give" anymore
 

Bennyt

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The 1/2 tons have about 1-2" deflection overall on a longbed meaning you can jack up one corner 1-2" before any other part lifts.

The question I have is how much did it flex new and how much would flex be reduced by drilling out all the rivets and replacing with 7/16 hardware.
 

Keith Seymore

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The 1/2 tons have about 1-2" deflection overall on a longbed meaning you can jack up one corner 1-2" before any other part lifts.

The question I have is how much did it flex new and how much would flex be reduced by drilling out all the rivets and replacing with 7/16 hardware.
The same.

K
 

Dutch Rutter

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I'll play devils advocate here.

If you REALLY needed it. Coughing up the cash 15k+ for a custom, purpose built frame by people who know their sh!t sideways and backwards would be the way to go.


That would give you the best option and the least likely to break under that level of extreme situations. Believe it or not, there is a reason why professional autocross, track, drag etc. teams are not racing things they've welded together in their back yard, not to say that it couldn't be done, just not advisable.

I've patch welded a broken frame on my old 99 Ranger, that was a PITA enough trying not to get the frame hot enough to warp itself. And even then it was never quite true after that.
 

WP29P4A

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I'm trying to picture a Canadian road in good enough condition, and clean enough to drive a square body truck hard enough to get the frame to "twist" enough that it is noticeable, while being chased by Bullwinkle and those guys with big hats.

I vote for the custom frame, looks plenty stiff.
 

WP29P4A

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I would buy one of these.


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Heck yeah, what is it? LOL. Looks like an Indy car frame with adapters for a square body conversion.
 

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