Big block guys, help me out here

[Wumbo]

I usually pocket port my heads, but I left these alone. The machinist that did them used a tapered bowl cutter, it looks like they will have serious velocity on the exhaust ports. Wish I took a picture before I put them together.

 

[GRK82]

My guess is your cab mounts have fatigued and now there’s not enough clearance. I would unbolt the motor mounts from the cross member and slide the engine forward to clear the trans, the up and over the front support. Will have to remove radiator. Last one I did I took 30 minutes to remove the entire front clip. Makes the job so much easier.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

You can pull them out together but it is easiest to remove the front clip so you only have to raise it a foot or so

Did this about a month ago, but mine has a 350 auto. I removed my front end, just eight bolts, used an engine leveler, best 50 buck you can spend. Made is much easier to get out here is the thread:

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/1973-k20-350-to-454-swap.29840/
Might give you some ideas

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Have a question or two as this is a new area of learning for me. The K20 front axle is a dana 44 standard rotation stock original, and the hubs do not work. Therefore next week I am planning a R and R of the hubs, drain the oil, service the u joints etc. I am certain this is an open diff, and was mulling the idea of doing basically the same thing to the front as I did with the rear; lunchbox locker. Since this has hubs, a Spartin locker, Aussie locker and etc. would have good road manners as well because the hubs are acting like an open spool. Even locked in mud or snow, seems like this type setup would be relatively inexpensive, but still very effective. My main concern would be how it goes down the road locked. Am I on the right track with my thinking?

 

[illmanners]

It's already been suggested, but I always pull the front clip or at least everything from the radiator shroud forward. It's just so much easier that way as you will only need to raise the nine high enough to clear the frame to motor-mounts and pull the engine and tranny as one piece. Plus when you re-install, you have all kinds of room to work with as there is nothing in the way and you are not fighting bending over fenders to make connections.

 

[Wumbo]

Yeah, last time I pulled this engine I removed to core support and grill. This time I was trying to save some time.

Engines out.

Normally when I pull an engine, I don't even have to touch the trans to the cab/body. You guys hit the nail on the head with the body mounts being compressed. I just jacked the trans a few extra strokes past touching the trans tunnel. The pinch weld on the rocker panel is up about 1/4 inch from level with the pinch weld on the front fenders.

 

[Wumbo]

Also, I can't tell you how great Lunati has been. I had a few technical questions that I sent emails about, and they were fast and concise with responses. I also, unfortunately, had a problem with one lifter. I called the tech support line, and hung up while I was on hold because a neighbor showed up and needed a hand with something (also a squarebody owner). Lunati tech support actually called me back. Didn't see that coming.

One of my lifters collapsed when I primed the oil system and rotated the engine over. I couldn't get it right. They are sending a new pair of lifters with a return label for the defective lifters.

Unfortunate setback, but I'm really happy with the company as far as communication and response goes.

 

[Poppy 87]

Same here. Wanted to keep it 100% stock, down to the emissions equipment.

Broke an AIR injection tube last time I pulled the engine, so ditched that whole system. And the low compression 265hp 454 is sooo underwhelming.

Decided to build a 9:1 compression 468 with 2.19/1.88 oval port heads and Lunati roller cam. I had a set of Eagle H beam rods laying around, so went ahead and used them. Didn't see the point of H beam rods with a cast iron crank, so I bought a Scat steel crank.

But I painted the engine black, so it looks stock, except the stainless hardware and aluminum timing cover.

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Yeah, that intake sure looks stock!!

 

[Wumbo]

Yeah, that intake sure looks stock!!

Close enough