Best gun for metallics

[codfish]

So

After months of looking for a topper for my 84, I may have found one, for free!!!!

Anyhow, gonna paint it to match my truck. It’s a blue metallic paint. I’ve never painted before, but I will be painting this myself.

Who’s sprayed metallic before and which type of gun will work best for a first timer? Tip size?

Probably never use the gun again so not looking for a top of the line unit. Cheaper the better.

Thanks
Codfish

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[fast 99]

Not that it's what you asking but is it made out of fiberglass?
If so the mold release agent will be imbedded, it was wax.
You will need to use denatured alcohol and wax and grease remover both before and after sanding, several times.

On the gun question try a pawn shop. Older syphon guns are usually available, cheap. I bought one for $20. Binks and DeVilbiss are both decent. You could easily spend $800-1000 on a newer HVLP gun.

 

[CalSgt]

DeVillbiss Starting Line is okay quality starter stuff...

Painting metallic base coat is only part of the job, you'll have to prep the surface, probably epoxy primer, shoot the base metallic, then clear coat. Thats an extreme simplification of a painting project with no bodywork or filler needed.

If you're set on doing it yourself start reading and watching youtube, also study the tech sheets of every product you plan to use before you buy it. Not all paints are compatible with each other, they will have different reducers, thinning instructions and flash times... Some also need to be sanded again if they're not topcoated within a certain timeframe.

 

[1STLS1]

I read your post and looked at what your painting and an honest answer is your technique and air pressure will make more difference than a more expensive gun than the one I have linked if your doing base coat clear coat. There is a YouTube video about improving its performance by teflon taping some of the various parts which made a difference in my opinion. I buy a couple of these on sale and when it quits spraying right, usually from me not cleaning it right, I throw it out and grab another.

20 oz. HVLP Gravity Feed Air Spray Gun with Regulator

Amazing deals on this 20Oz Hvlp Gravity Air Spray Gun W/Regulator at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

The actual area that you can see is small, nobody is going to see the top anyways. Use the suggested psi and make sure you do not start or stop over the area you are spraying to avoid motting of the metallic. If you screw it up, shoot a coat diagonally instead of left to right to blend it away.

I would be more concerned about the match from topper to cab and bed, is it light and silvery or a dark blue?

 

[codfish]

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[Terry Wilkerson]

Check out utube chanel (Paint Society ) Guy is knowledgeable and keeps it simple.

 

[1STLS1]

Is that a factory color? Does it match the paint code on the SPID?

 

[Finkaire]

They came white, that’s why I did white, single stage.
I think the paint matched shell on the fleet side would work.

 

[codfish]

Thanks for the info Terry, I’ll check him out.

I really don’t think it’s a factory color. Previous owner painted it. I do have a small can that the previous owner gave me when I bought the truck. Not at home for another week so I can’t give specifics, but I will when I get home.

The cap is already painted so it will need a repaint. I prefer a color matched cap personally as it doesn’t stand out.

Codfish

 

[codfish]

Picked it up yesterday. Free but I gave the guy $40 for it. All I had on me. Looking for one for a year. All stripped down. Some prep work to do now.

 

[codfish]

Is that a factory color? Does it match the paint code on the SPID?

Just checked the label on the small can I have. It’s a 1995 Ferd color apparently

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[Grit dog]

Not that it's what you asking but is it made out of fiberglass?
If so the mold release agent will be imbedded, it was wax.
You will need to use denatured alcohol and wax and grease remover both before and after sanding, several times.

On the gun question try a pawn shop. Older syphon guns are usually available, cheap. I bought one for $20. Binks and DeVilbiss are both decent. You could easily spend $800-1000 on a newer HVLP gun.

True story, but I wouldn’t expect any issue at all. Especially considering how old and weathered it is. Have repainted a few (much newer) fiberglass toppers over the years and never had issue.
But agree, on the prep wipe. Never less than 2 good wipe downs before first coat. Regardless of surface.
And fwiw, while lacquer thinner or acetone works ok, it can leave a slight residue. I always use a dedicated prep wipe/wax and grease remover. In absence of that, final wipe with reducer is good. But remember reducer is a strong enough solvent that it will eat or lift old/soft paint materials, many primers and even cured base coat.

 

[Grit dog]

Seen a lot of reports of folks using Harbor Freight Black Widow guns. Top of the line for HF about $250.
Personally though, I feel it’s about 90% painter and 10% gun.
I can make something look good with a cheap old gun (more luck than skill, lol) and look like crap with a nice gun (more often than not..)
Tip size, unless you’re getting a gun that comes with multiple tips and needles, you want a 1.3-1.5 tip for base and clear.
Beyond that I’m not good enough to give you much advice on actual technique because I suck at it.
But a few things…
Base coat is generally heavily reduced. Start with 1-2 light coats to prevent melting or lifting the old paint underneath (mentioned above) before you get a good color coat down.
Metallics, quality paint will separate less and tiger stripe less.
Keep spraying base until you like the consistency that you see. If it doesn’t all look 100% the same it will look 100% worse after clear.
Clear coat, no such thing as a “light coat”. You have to spray clear to look like you want it to when it’s finished. IE has to be med/heavy coat with good atomization and gloss. You’re better off having good glossy clear with less orange peel and having some runs to sand out than having no runs and having dry looking clear that requires 100% sand and polish.
Temperature. Don’t ever think you can get away with painting “too cold” or too hot. And never use fast reducers or activators to make up for cooler temperatures. (This from recent experience….LOTS of sanding ensured after that fck up not maintaining ambient temperature)

And most importantly, if you get the basics right for adhesion and cure, you can fix the vast majority of lack of skill or experience with sanding and polishing! (If I was half as good of a painter as I am a sander, I would be very happy…)