battery junction Block issue ( see photos)

[RiverRat4]

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Hey everyone, I bought a new junction block to replace the existing because the existing quit conducting 12V from post to post.

The new one from LMC is all plastic with no metal connecting the 2 studs where I mount the 12V+ power source which sends power to everything inside the cab. I have two questions:
1) these two posts should normally ohm out to zero ohms right?
2) Do I really need this junction? I by pass it and the truck fires normally and runs without issue.

appreciate any suggestions

Thanks!

 

[Grit dog]

LMC must be shopping at Temu now….
Seems virtually impossible what you said but you checked continuity on it.
But it’s just a junction block. A convenient place to terminate connections. You can use any j block or bolt the 2 eyelets together and wrap in duct tape. Will function the same.

 

[legopnuematic]

There should be a metallic jumper between the posts.

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[RiverRat4]

I appreciate the responses and I am a bit skeptical in regard to my actual "need" for this junction block. The 12V+ source for this junction block comes from the starter where it is co-mounted with the 12V+ from the battery through another junction block. I am thinking to just eliminate this junction, and directly wire it to the junction block approximately 1 foot away!

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[RiverRat4]

Just to spur comment on this issue, I have an idea that I don’t need the junction block at all. There is what has been described as a redundancy of power stemming from the starter to the alternator. What that tells me is regardless of any fusible links, if that link fails (pops or fails) there is still a power source to by pass it. So why have it?

Comments?

 

[legopnuematic]

In your case since you have an LS with the OE junction/"jump point" then it could be redundant.

Factory there would be no such junction, thus the firewall mounted one. That would allow for some modularity as not all trucks would require the same wiring.

 

[Snoots]

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[RiverRat4]

I appreciate the responses and I am a bit skeptical in regard to my actual "need" for this junction block. The 12V+ source for this junction block comes from the starter where it is co-mounted with the 12V+ from the battery through another junction block. I am thinking to just eliminate this junction, and directly wire it to the junction block approximately 1 foot away!

 

[nvrenuf]

I appreciate the responses and I am a bit skeptical in regard to my actual "need" for this junction block. The 12V+ source for this junction block comes from the starter where it is co-mounted with the 12V+ from the battery through another junction block. I am thinking to just eliminate this junction, and directly wire it to the junction block approximately 1 foot away!

No offense but you've repeated this multiple times now so I'm guessing you're hoping someone will clearly say "you don't need it". The fact is that in OE configuration it serves a purpose but once you've done a motor swap with a completely different (modified) harness that includes another distribution block you're the one that really needs to access both pieces value / purpose and which, if any, to delete.

 

[Dejure]

Electronically, there is zero need for the junction. To a meter, whether reading volts, amps or ohms, you're going to see the same thing with or without it. That is, straight wiring to the power or via a junction point.

That said, it MAY exist for no other purpose than to provide a solution to wiring issues that might come from different builds (e.g., V8 vs straight 6, or necessary access points when one rig uses electrical parts another doesn't.

Years back, I did a friend a favor by closing off the cab portion of his work van from the back, to contain smells from his power washing chemicals and equipment.

On a whim, I installed a 3/8" aluminum bar into which I'd drilled two mounting holes, to secure it to the plywood panel I installed to separate the cab. I drilled and tapped five more holes for studs and wing nuts, allowing him to do quick and easy power connections and disconnections, when he was swapping pressure washers, hose reels, rectifiers and so on. It was just a bigger version of this very thing.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

No offense but you've repeated this multiple times now so I'm guessing you're hoping someone will clearly say "you don't need it". The fact is that in OE configuration it serves a purpose but once you've done a motor swap with a completely different (modified) harness that includes another distribution block you're the one that really needs to access both pieces value / purpose and which, if any, to delete.

Is there some weird ass echo in here??

 

[Snoots]

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