Ball Joint Replacement

[89Suburban]

I was told not to. I used the old ones-

It was my understanding that adjusting that inner sleeve is part of the installation process. Are you using a manual or winging it?

I'm hoping the dam rag joint is whats causing all the play in the steering.

Did you check the joint at the column? What about the mounting screws inside the column, they good?

Has anyone ever read this???

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_alt/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25888_K8194T_En.pdf

I like the new position of the grease fitting. Just wonder if that creates a weak spot though....

 

[jgasca]

It was my understanding that adjusting that inner sleeve is part of the installation process. Are you using a manual or winging it?

The guy who aligned my tires has been aligning vehicles for years and has his own square body, now I'm not saying this means he knows best but when I took my truck to him to get it aligned, he told me my ball joints needed to be replaced. He told me that if I was gonna do it my self, to leave the sleeves in the knuckles.

Did you check the joint at the column? What about the mounting screws inside the column, they good?

I checked what was turning with the steering wheel and the movement matched up until the rag joint. I just came inside from installing the steering shaft from a 97 astro. My steering is much better now.

But i did run into another problem, I noticed the wheel turns more to the right than it does to the left. Its approximately 1.5 turns of the steering wheel to the left and 2 turns to the right.

Where did I mess up? Anyone?

 

[HotRodPC]

Sounds to me you need to set you splines and steering wheel back 90 degrees, and then you have your Toe set. Not your big toe at the Drs office, but your Toe Angle on your tie rods. So turn the wheel a 1/4 turn to the left, then set your splines at the steer box to where your steering wheel is straight across. then get it realigned. Does this sound like what you are referring to or am I lost? Now after alignment, you might still be off an 1/8 turn or so, but once you reach max turning radius, done is done, you're not going to gain anymore.

 

[89Suburban]

The guy who aligned my tires has been aligning vehicles for years and has his own square body, now I'm not saying this means he knows best but when I took my truck to him to get it aligned, he told me my ball joints needed to be replaced. He told me that if I was gonna do it my self, to leave the sleeves in the knuckles.

Yah, you leave them in but you still use them to adjust the free play out. If they too tight that would cause an issue I would think. Supposed to back them up and install everything then tighten that sleeve down like hand tight or a little more, then install the top nut to torque specs.

 

[jgasca]

Sounds to me you need to set you splines and steering wheel back 90 degrees, and then you have your Toe set. Not your big toe at the Drs office, but your Toe Angle on your tie rods. So turn the wheel a 1/4 turn to the left, then set your splines at the steer box to where your steering wheel is straight across. then get it realigned. Does this sound like what you are referring to or am I lost? Now after alignment, you might still be off an 1/8 turn or so, but once you reach max turning radius, done is done, you're not going to gain anymore.

I failed to mention that I also replaced the drag link ends. I tried matching the amount of turns it took to uninstall to the amount it took to install, I may of been a little off. I was told this could be it....

I hope this is it instead of getting it aligned again.

 

[HotRodPC]

I failed to mention that I also replaced the drag link ends. I tried matching the amount of turns it took to uninstall to the amount it took to install, I may of been a little off. I was told this could be it....

I hope this is it instead of getting it aligned again.

Sure, that could be it. BUT, you do have to get it aligned. Sorry to say, but yes you do. You made 3 major changes, 2 drag link ends, and a steering shaft, yes, get it aligned. Had it been a ball joint or 2, I'd say let it ride and watch your tire wear, but for those parts you changed, for certain. Get it aligned. Rather than pay $69 for a 6 warranty alignment, I intend to go to a local mom and pop tire chain here in the state and get Lifetime Alignment for $129. Then everytime I change a part, I can take it in.

Which by the way, how long ago did you get an alignment? It might still be good for a free recheck, especially since all they are doing is adjusting the TOE.

 

[jgasca]

Sure, that could be it. BUT, you do have to get it aligned. Sorry to say, but yes you do. You made 3 major changes, 2 drag link ends, and a steering shaft, yes, get it aligned. Had it been a ball joint or 2, I'd say let it ride and watch your tire wear, but for those parts you changed, for certain. Get it aligned. Rather than pay $69 for a 6 warranty alignment, I intend to go to a local mom and pop tire chain here in the state and get Lifetime Alignment for $129. Then everytime I change a part, I can take it in.

Which by the way, how long ago did you get an alignment? It might still be good for a free recheck, especially since all they are doing is adjusting the TOE.

The guy that aligned my tires is running his own person front end alignment, but your right, it wouldn't hurt to call and ask if he could check it out.

But hell I wish I could find a lifetime alignment deal!!! Lucky bastard!!

 

[HotRodPC]

The guy that aligned my tires is running his own person front end alignment, but your right, it wouldn't hurt to call and ask if he could check it out.

But hell I wish I could find a lifetime alignment deal!!! Lucky bastard!!

I think Firestone still has Lifetime Alignment. Maybe GoodYear? I just figured for the cost of 2 alignments, I can get it redone everytime I change parts, everytime I buy tires, or once a year to keep my tires in good shape. Never know when you might curb check pretty hard and knock it out of whack.

 

[bucket]

I think Firestone still has Lifetime Alignment. Maybe GoodYear? I just figured for the cost of 2 alignments, I can get it redone everytime I change parts, everytime I buy tires, or once a year to keep my tires in good shape. Never know when you might curb check pretty hard and knock it out of whack.

I wouldn't trust any of the local firestones to align my lawn tractor. These 4x4 trucks are very easy to line up with a tape measure... set the toe, then adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel.

 

[HotRodPC]

I'd imagine you're right. I don't care though. I'm picky picky when it come to alignment. I don't like a hint of a pull, and I won't stand for my steering wheel spokes to be off a hair.

 

[89Suburban]

I wouldn't trust any of the local firestones to align my lawn tractor. These 4x4 trucks are very easy to line up with a tape measure... set the toe, then adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel.

So is eyeballed center good enough to adjust the toe by tape measure? That toe changes through the steer arc correct? So you want one or the other tires dead straight to adjust the toe right? String line to the rear wheel?

 

[bucket]

So is eyeballed center good enough to adjust the toe by tape measure? That toe changes through the steer arc correct? So you want one or the other tires dead straight to adjust the toe right? String line to the rear wheel?

It's more accurate to measure off of the inside lip of the rim, front and rear... but that's only if you can't (or don't want to) move the truck.

The best way is mark the tires (center of tread) on the rearmost part of the tire, then roll the truck forward until those marks are on the front of the truck. Then measure those marks again and record the difference. That's your toe in/out.

Once you get the toe set, go drive the truck and see where the steering wheel is when you are going straight down the road. Let's say it's 20* down to the right for example. Park the truck with the steering wheel at the same 20* down to the right, and leave the steering unlocked. Simply adjust the drag link until the steering wheel is perfectly centered. Then go drive the truck again and check your work.

 

[89Suburban]

It's more accurate to measure off of the inside lip of the rim, front and rear... but that's only if you can't (or don't want to) move the truck.

The best way is mark the tires (center of tread) on the rearmost part of the tire, then roll the truck forward until those marks are on the front of the truck. Then measure those marks again and record the difference. That's your toe in/out.

Once you get the toe set, go drive the truck and see where the steering wheel is when you are going straight down the road. Let's say it's 20* down to the right for example. Park the truck with the steering wheel at the same 20* down to the right, and leave the steering unlocked. Simply adjust the drag link until the steering wheel is perfectly centered. Then go drive the truck again and check your work.

I will put this on my to do list.

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[jgasca]

Sounds to me you need to set you splines and steering wheel back 90 degrees, and then you have your Toe set. Not your big toe at the Drs office, but your Toe Angle on your tie rods. So turn the wheel a 1/4 turn to the left, then set your splines at the steer box to where your steering wheel is straight across. then get it realigned. Does this sound like what you are referring to or am I lost? Now after alignment, you might still be off an 1/8 turn or so, but once you reach max turning radius, done is done, you're not going to gain anymore.

Not sure if I understood you right, but I took off the pitman arm and saw where exactly the middle of the steering was. It was about 3.5 complete turns. So i turned the wheel from one side to about 1.75. I re adjusted the drag link ends to connect the pitman arm. Now my wheels turn the same amount to both sides but my steering wheel is 1/4 turned to the left.

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So the only other way to straighten my steering wheel would be from the steering shaft to my steering wheel. The teeth at the gear box match only one way onto the shaft, and the other end of the shaft matches two ways. How can i get a 1/4 turn of the wheel?

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Unless I'm misunderstanding how the gearbox and the front end work, I can't adjust the drag link sleeve to straighten out my steering wheel without messing with my turn ratio.

Any ideas?

 

[crazy4offroad]

It should straighten up with about 3 turns of the sleeve, not enough to really mess with your turning radius.