Ball Joint Replacement

[HotRodPC]

True Shane. I've had some used that spun just a little when taking them down for some other reason, but never had one with a stub that spun.

 

[jgasca]

Well I took the lower ball joint back and got the valuecraft BJ for about $10 less. Hope it doesn't come back to haunt me but atleast I got the valuecraft to tighten all the way.

I bought another set for the driver, decided to take your guys advice! Besides now that I have the press, might as well get it over with!

 

[HotRodPC]

Well I took the lower ball joint back and got the valuecraft BJ for about $10 less. Hope it doesn't come back to haunt me but atleast I got the valuecraft to tighten all the way.

I bought another set for the driver, decided to take your guys advice! Besides now that I have the press, might as well get it over with!

Hope the Valuecraft works out for you. I assume they were out of the other one? I'll say this much, I will skimp when I can, but suspension and brake parts I usually don't, but I will settle for MasterPro in Supension Parts and even TRW if they look like they were made at the Dana Chassis Production plant which is who makes most of the TRW parts, but I'll settle for those on my 2wd vehicles, but on the 4x4's that are going to get the hell beat out of them, I'd go with the Moog or higher end quality stuff.

 

[jgasca]

Well i know its been a while but I ran into some weirdness.

After tightening the lower ball joint on the driver side, the wheel knuckle was pretty hard to turn by hand.

I gave it about a week or two to see if it would break it in and get better but its still pretty tough to turn. I'm worried this will take a tole on the gear box and ever my power steering..

Any idea?

 

[jgasca]

Anyone think of anything?

Not to push this on anyone but I have a feeling this is the root to my whole steering problem.

I replaced the gear box, the drag links, the ball joints and for some odd reason my steering still has play at about 1/4 turn of the wheel.

Next step would be to take it to a local garage

 

[RetroC10Sport]

I just wouldn't trust the cheapest parts, especially when it comes to suspension and brakes and steering. I have MasterPro from O'reilly Auto and they were $15 each. I've had them on for 2 years and not a single complaint.

 

[GreaseDog]

Did you adjust the taper inserts in the end of the axle housing when you torqued the ball joints?

 

[jgasca]

Did you adjust the taper inserts in the end of the axle housing when you torqued the ball joints?

I was told not to. I used the old ones-

 

[1973 Chevy]

I'm having a similar problem as you, I got all brand new ball joints and got them pressed in and they seated fine in the knuckle. When I go to put the knuckle on the lower ball joint on the drivers side will turn with the nut, mine doesn't have a slot for a screw driver, I put a bar under the knucle and pried lifted the whole damn frame off the ground, I had all the pressure on the knuckle tried turning the nut and the stud still turned. On the passenger side the lower ball joint wont turn with the nut, so I tighten the nut pretty snug and then I push the knuckle and it goes pretty hard.

 

[jgasca]

I'm having a similar problem as you, I got all brand new ball joints and got them pressed in and they seated fine in the knuckle. When I go to put the knuckle on the lower ball joint on the drivers side will turn with the nut, mine doesn't have a slot for a screw driver, I put a bar under the knucle and pried lifted the whole damn frame off the ground, I had all the pressure on the knuckle tried turning the nut and the stud still turned. On the passenger side the lower ball joint wont turn with the nut, so I tighten the nut pretty snug and then I push the knuckle and it goes pretty hard.

You might just have to get yourself some other ball joints.
The ball joints that wouldn't tighten were duralast from Autozone.

On another note, I'm gonna be trying the steering shaft swap if I can find a jeep or retro van in any of the local junk yards. Any tips or advice before I try?

I'm hoping the dam rag joint is whats causing all the play in the steering.

 

[1973 Chevy]

That's pretty dumb that some ball joints will work and some will not. Now that I think of there is two different brands of lower ball joints in my knuckles and one works and the other does not.

 

[89Suburban]

If you got the weight of the truck on it, and it still spins, that's phuked up. And unsafe to be on the road. This is when it pays to have a dial caliper to make measurements when go go back to get the right parts.

Does anybody here know if there are specs for measurements of the hole or the ball joint shaft diameter? Like, what it "should" be? That you can compare measurements too so see if if it is "in spec"? Or is there no such thing? I know it is tapered. Just curious. Seems like this is a problem we should look out for when buying parts, it would be best to have measurements of the old ones.

Or if somebody here is going to tackle this and everything goes as it should, maybe do some measuring and post it here for us to reference when somebody else has to buy parts, they know what to look for.

 

[1973 Chevy]

If you got the weight of the truck on it, and it still spins, that's phuked up. And unsafe to be on the road. This is when it pays to have a dial caliper to make measurements when go go back to get the right parts.

Does anybody here know if there are specs for measurements of the hole or the ball joint shaft diameter? Like, what it "should" be? That you can compare measurements too so see if if it is "in spec"? Or is there no such thing? I know it is tapered. Just curious. Seems like this is a problem we should look out for when buying parts, it would be best to have measurements of the old ones.

Or if somebody here is going to tackle this and everything goes as it should, maybe do some measuring and post it here for us to reference when somebody else has to buy parts, they know what to look for.

If I had a caliper or some other precision measurement tool I would tell you the exact width of the holes on my axle but I don't, but with a tape meausre I got roughly 13/16 for the top and 3/4 for the underside of the hole. Yeah if someone could put a reference to ball joints/parts that would help me and many others.

Speaking of referencing parts would anyone know for sure if these Moog ball joints would work, i'd hate to buy more ball joints and not have them work again.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=203292 MOOG Part # K8194T
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=203294 MOOG Part # K8195T

 

[jgasca]

If I had a caliper or some other precision measurement tool I would tell you the exact width of the holes on my axle but I don't, but with a tape meausre I got roughly 13/16 for the top and 3/4 for the underside of the hole. Yeah if someone could put a reference to ball joints/parts that would help me and many others.

Speaking of referencing parts would anyone know for sure if these Moog ball joints would work, i'd hate to buy more ball joints and not have them work again.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=203292 MOOG Part # K8194T
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=203294 MOOG Part # K8195T

All I can say is that my upper ball joints are duralast and my lower are value craft.
Both are from auto zone!

 

[HotRodPC]

Has anyone ever read this???

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_alt/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25888_K8194T_En.pdf