Bad hubs or transfer case? How to tell.

[kickdeez]

I have used different types of grease over the years. During my most recent axle rebuild I used a generic "wheel bearing grease". I usually lather some grease on the spindle, pack the bearings, and slop a bunch into the hub. I wouldn't sweat it if you get some grease on the threads of the spindle. It wont hurt anything. If you intend to service the ball joints, then go ahead and pull the knuckles, axle shafts, and carrier so you can replace the inner axle seals. If your ball joints are okay, and its not leaking any oil from the axle tubes, then I say leave it and put it back together.

 

[Georgeb]

I agree with Kickeez on leaving the inner axle seals if they are not leaking but at the very least I would pull the spindles and add some grease to the little axle gearing that is installed in the back of them. I know you like to do road trips so I would suggest you use the white lithium grease for
your hubs and use some good bearing grease for packing your bearings. The white lithium will allow you to operate your hubs in sub freezing temps more easily. Nothing like needing 4x4 and not being able to lock the hubs.

 

[bucket]

If your lockouts are new, you shouldn't need to lube them for a long long time. But a light coating of gear oil seems to work well.

For wheel bearing grease, I like the the stuff that NAPA sells. It's like a tan color. For ball joints, u-joints, etc I like the Moly EP grease that Oriely's sells. It's a black/graphite color. A little bit of grease smeared into the spindle bearings will do them good.

Sil-Glyde (spelling?) is good for lubing the pads and slide pins. NAPA sells that too. It's very similar to dielectric grease.