Aux battery for audio

[1lejohn]

I don't know because I'm not one to crank the system with the truck not running. It sounds better at 14.2 volts than at 12 anyway.

Understood just playing devil's advocate.

 

[Grit dog]

yes and no. My alt is a factory unit pushing 94 amps. However, at 1100 WRMS, that's 76.4 amps just for the amplifiers. But yes, I may want to run the audio without the engine running and still be able to start my truck when ready. and Yes, it is a traditional camper load but not lights and fans....thumping music.

You’re still tracking right. And you provided enough info originally that should have quoted down the “whys” even though you were only asking about the “how’s”. It happens, it’s the internet.
One guy running a 1900W stereo off of a crusty old Diehard battery and a kick @ss alternator is not the only way to properly accomplish the desired results.
Keep on keepin on.
I’m sure your installer or the voice in the back of your head will tell you to make sure the wiring is large enough to handle the load efficiently. That was my only comment after you sorted out the battery isolator thing.
Cheers!

 

[SquareRoot]

You’re still tracking right. And you provided enough info originally that should have quoted down the “whys” even though you were only asking about the “how’s”. It happens, it’s the internet.
One guy running a 1900W stereo off of a crusty old Diehard battery and a kick @ss alternator is not the only way to properly accomplish the desired results.
Keep on keepin on.
I’m sure your installer or the voice in the back of your head will tell you to make sure the wiring is large enough to handle the load efficiently. That was my only comment after you sorted out the battery isolator thing.
Cheers!

........PS. Diehards suck. I'm no longer going to ask why. I'm gonna sit down here in the bottom of the rabbit hole and wait for company.

 

[1987R30]

You’re still tracking right. And you provided enough info originally that should have quoted down the “whys” even though you were only asking about the “how’s”. It happens, it’s the internet.
One guy running a 1900W stereo off of a crusty old Diehard battery and a kick @ss alternator is not the only way to properly accomplish the desired results.
Keep on keepin on.
I’m sure your installer or the voice in the back of your head will tell you to make sure the wiring is large enough to handle the load efficiently. That was my only comment after you sorted out the battery isolator thing.
Cheers!

The factory connections to the aux battery are for charging. They don’t carry the load for the audio system

 

[1987R30]

........PS. Diehards suck. I'm no longer going to ask why. I'm gonna sit down here in the bottom of the rabbit hole and wait for company.

I use everstart 800 cca

 

[CalSgt]

My original post wasn't clear. I've already decided to add the aux battery. I was asking where I would physically connect the amplifiers to the aux battery. I guess I go through the firewall and connect directly to the Aux Battery terminals.

Basically….
Positive amplifier wire directly to the battery terminal fused within 18” or so of the battery

Most people ground to the body near the amplifier, I took it one step further and grounded to the frame under the cab. That’s one of the reasons everyone is stressing the importance of the ground at the battery, the wiring needs to be able to support the current.

I suppose there is no reason you can’t wire the amplifier ground directly to the auxiliary battery. Quality copper amplifier power/ground wire is expensive so it is a cost saving to let the chassis carry the ground for most of the way, also it’s one less bulky wire to route to the battery.

ETA: you can go through the fire wall, or route along the frame and through the floor board under the seat or any way you can get the wire where it needs to go without putting it in harms way