Aftermarket Cam for stock 350

[75gmck25]

Unless you can get the compression higher and also significantly improve the flow of the old heads (hard to do), the duration of that Elgin cam is not a good match. It may work okay and may not sound too bad, but you need about 9.5+ compression and decent head flow (Vortecs or better) to get the power from that higher duration cam. With near stock engine it would be more typical to limit it to no more than around 212-214 @ .050 duration, and for a heavy truck you might want to go even lower.

If your budget is really $600, then you should be able to stretch it (using used parts, etc.) to get an aluminum dual plane intake, carburetor, inexpensive headers with dual exhaust, and maybe a store brand cam (Summit, Jegs, etc.) but thats about it. Once you start spending money on engine rebuilding you will not have anything left for the bolt-ons.

Bruce

 

[Marcus]

Unless you can get the compression higher and also significantly improve the flow of the old heads (hard to do), the duration of that Elgin cam is not a good match. It may work okay and may not sound too bad, but you need about 9.5+ compression and decent head flow (Vortecs or better) to get the power from that higher duration cam. With near stock engine it would be more typical to limit it to no more than around 212-214 @ .050 duration, and for a heavy truck you might want to go even lower.

If your budget is really $600, then you should be able to stretch it (using used parts, etc.) to get an aluminum dual plane intake, carburetor, inexpensive headers with dual exhaust, and maybe a store brand cam (Summit, Jegs, etc.) but thats about it. Once you start spending money on engine rebuilding you will not have anything left for the bolt-ons.

Bruce

Yeah, I need an intake and carb for sure. Already has dual exhaust. Set of manifolds off an early 90’s model throttle body 350. .342 front and rear gears.

 

[1973c10]

Have a fully stock 350 4 bolt main. Looking into buying a rebuild kit that comes with a stage 2 cam. Curious on what everyone thinks about the stage 2 cam in a stock 350 4 bolt main. I’m not looking to get 400hp or anything crazy. Just a little something to put some ump into it. What do y’all suggest?

http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek1070

 

[Rusty Nail]

I'm not arguing.
The FEL-PRO 1094 costs $20? and is available readily. Even 882s flow WAY sufficient, a 350/350 only had 041s on it vs. $1000 to run vortex heads for an avg 25-30hp gain?
That is Bad.Math. I pass big on $33 per horsepower but you go ahead.

That's a fine cam to build a sweet little engine with
Improve on what you have and get room to grow but whatever. Spend more and get less with more work. See if I give a f*ck.

We'll line em up whenever you're ready.

 

[Rusty Nail]

I get how Trendy Vortex heads are because that's what all the cool kids get.

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But let's get real - all bench racing aside!

Do you have any idea how many SBC HP can be made at well beneath even $30 per horsepower? GOBS!
Begs the question why spend $1000 for THIRTY when a trained monkee can install ONE HUNDRED HORSEPOWER for $400 at the push of a button?
Something like swapping to vortex heads isn't exactly entry level wrenching.
.
Why NOBODY. EVER. SAYS. NITRO?

FFS!

Cuz cool kids want vortex but they also smoke cigarettes.

Wait. He asked about camshafts, right?
You can run that cam on Nitro, NP.

 

[75gmck25]

You have to consider the entire package, not just heads or cam separately. HP potential depends on the flow of air/fuel mixture, so you need to consider carburetor, intake, heads, cam, headers, and exhaust, combined with compression ratio. Changing any one of the components improves air flow in that component, but its limited if the other components still have poor flow.

Old 882 or other heads have limitations, regardless of how good the machine shop is. In most cases you can swap to a modern head to get both better flow and a compression increase from using 64cc chambers. A simple Vortec head swap is relatively expensive for only 25-30 HP if that is all you change. However, if you plan ahead of time and start out with a head swap, you are ready when you start improving all the other pieces (cam, carb, headers, etc.). It just depends on your overall plan.

Bruce

 

[Rusty Nail]

Ya know I was thinking ... if old dude would simply install a pair of long tube 1.5" headers he would get stupid close to that number for a Ben alone. Starting a new project, the horsepowers ought be be rollin in for REALLY cheap.
Part of my thought process is like yours but starts at the camshaft in this case, i'm not pickin a fight B. That camshaft not only improves upon the one he has but it will continue to appreciate as other parts are added.
AND it's CHEAP. Pick up a Cloyes double while youre in there and thank me later. -$30!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Bloc...:Hc0AAOSwru9bHsQg:sc:USPSPriority!73127!US!-1

Mid 70s 010 block, 882s are a good guess! But **** man, he could buy $100 headers, a $130 camshaft that is proven, and STILL have enough to fix the rest + for frickin $600. That's a lot of money!


Whatever...I think you and I Bruce, have had parts of this very conversation more than once and I think it's great! Thanks for playing. And @ the new guy, thanks for simply showin up.

I'm at $260 plus gaskets to add how many horse ya reckon?

 

[Rusty Nail]

50?

260÷50= 5.2

Five bucks per horsepower seems much more reasonable but it's still a high price point to start at given cheaper HPs could be made OR REGAINED , easier.

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

Have a fully stock 350 4 bolt main. Looking into buying a rebuild kit that comes with a stage 2 cam. Curious on what everyone thinks about the stage 2 cam in a stock 350 4 bolt main. I’m not looking to get 400hp or anything crazy. Just a little something to put some ump into it. What do y’all suggest?

Just a thought for the OP... You say this is a good running small block already. Cool. Why are you going to tear down a good running engine? I would suggest doing a compression test and leak-down test on the engine first. If those two tests check out and indicate nothing is wrong with your engine, then you can simply swap in a new cam. Call up two or three cam manufactures and see what recommend for a cam. This route can potentially save you a good amount of time and money.

 

[Marcus]

Just a thought for the OP... You say this is a good running small block already. Cool. Why are you going to tear down a good running engine? I would suggest doing a compression test and leak-down test on the engine first. If those two tests check out and indicate nothing is wrong with your engine, then you can simply swap in a new cam. Call up two or three cam manufactures and see what recommend for a cam. This route can potentially save you a good amount of time and money.

Oil was everywhere on it. Needs taken apart and checked out. Which is why I’m researching parts to go back in it that will help it run a little better. It was put into a feed truck years ago and never got over 25mph for 15 years. It needs taken apart and gone through.