Donald Bartlett
Junior Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2018
- Posts
- 11
- Reaction score
- 17
- Location
- Fayetteville TN.
- First Name
- Don
- Truck Year
- 1975
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 350
Okay all; I have some very good news finally!!!!
First, allow me to offer my most sincere thank you's to all of you that provided tips, suggestions, and simply a good dose of "Ya; that sucks" moral support that kept me going!!!!!
At the end of the day, it turns out I had TWO BRAND new AMD brand fuel senders that did not work.
However, what a pain in the ass and frustration to have to do that especially when the box its self says that all units are tested and certified prior to leaving the factory to ensure performance.
So: I now have two gauges with all new wiring that is a complete bypass of anything that was there before, brand new tanks, brand new (Working) sending units, all new rubber fuel lines, and a new DPDT switch on the dash.
Now the last thing that remains is to ensure the transfer valve is actually working in terms of ensuring the physical switching of tanks relating to fuel supply. I know I am getting the electrical switch for fuel level, I just want to ensure the physical portion is also taking place. I tried to ensure that a day or so ago by leaving it to run on the "Empty" tank- but I'll be damned if it did not run for a LONG time without dying.........
The good news on this is that I KNOW for a FACT that the electrical is all GTG. a valve swap now is a proverbial walk in the park ;-)
Thanks again to all of you; I truly am grateful.
I hope that somewhere down the line I can offer assistance to one of you on something that you need help with.
Respectfully,
Don Bartlett
Fayetteville, TN.
First, allow me to offer my most sincere thank you's to all of you that provided tips, suggestions, and simply a good dose of "Ya; that sucks" moral support that kept me going!!!!!
At the end of the day, it turns out I had TWO BRAND new AMD brand fuel senders that did not work.
I have to go back to your thoughts WP of essentially "Check ALL that **** out first" (Paraphrased a bit by me of course!) NEW or not!!!!I don't like doing a project like you are doing and using the faith based approach, where I follow the instructions and put everything together, then test it and it doesn't work. Then I have to take it all apart and try to figure out what went wrong, or what brand new part is defective, or what part of the instructions are incomplete. I use the test leads to "mock up" the system so I can test it BEFORE I finish installing the system.
When I did the gauge installation pictured above I tested every individual item as I moved forward.
However, what a pain in the ass and frustration to have to do that especially when the box its self says that all units are tested and certified prior to leaving the factory to ensure performance.
So: I now have two gauges with all new wiring that is a complete bypass of anything that was there before, brand new tanks, brand new (Working) sending units, all new rubber fuel lines, and a new DPDT switch on the dash.
Now the last thing that remains is to ensure the transfer valve is actually working in terms of ensuring the physical switching of tanks relating to fuel supply. I know I am getting the electrical switch for fuel level, I just want to ensure the physical portion is also taking place. I tried to ensure that a day or so ago by leaving it to run on the "Empty" tank- but I'll be damned if it did not run for a LONG time without dying.........
The good news on this is that I KNOW for a FACT that the electrical is all GTG. a valve swap now is a proverbial walk in the park ;-)
Thanks again to all of you; I truly am grateful.
I hope that somewhere down the line I can offer assistance to one of you on something that you need help with.
Respectfully,
Don Bartlett
Fayetteville, TN.