89S SCORES!!!! Used 5.7 TBI Install Thread

[HotRodPC]

Buy a numbered punch set before you start, so you can mark 1, 2, 3 etc on your rods, rod caps, main caps and on the block beside the main caps so you can put them back in order. VERY important to do that.

Congrats on the score bubba!!

I will reiterate how important this is to do. If you take your main caps off and don't mark them and KNOW EXACTLY where they go, then you can just scrap the block. Its now junk. Reason being, to save the block, you'd have to have it line bored to make sure all the main journals are on the money. Line bore is about $200. You can usually buy a rebuildable bare block core for $50 or so. Maybe $100, but nevertheless, just mark the Rod and main caps.

 

[davbell22602]

I will reiterate how important this is to do. If you take your main caps off and don't mark them and KNOW EXACTLY where they go, then you can just scrap the block. Its now junk. Reason being, to save the block, you'd have to have it line bored to make sure all the main journals are on the money. Line bore is about $200. You can usually buy a rebuildable bare block core for $50 or so. Maybe $100, but nevertheless, just mark the Rod and main caps.

Same goes for Vortec 350 also?

 

[89Suburban]

I will reiterate how important this is to do. If you take your main caps off and don't mark them and KNOW EXACTLY where they go, then you can just scrap the block. Its now junk. Reason being, to save the block, you'd have to have it line bored to make sure all the main journals are on the money. Line bore is about $200. You can usually buy a rebuildable bare block core for $50 or so. Maybe $100, but nevertheless, just mark the Rod and main caps.

Besides marking them by cylinder, I also need to mark them in front/back facing too?

 

[HotRodPC]

Besides marking them by cylinder, I also need to mark them in front/back facing too?

Many times they have an arrow cast into them already. You can tell by a notch in the cap and a notch in the main webbing of the block. The notches go opposite of each other, so that part is usually easy to tell. I have seen some guys that don't have numbers to punch with , they just used a staight hole or pilot punch. 1 dot = #1, 2 dots = #2 etc. That method also works. Now when doing the rod caps, 7 and 8 dots can get a bit crowded.
On rods, I usually mark the rod and the rod cap on the same side. I do also like to mark rods and put them in their exact position, but realistically, if you have the rods resized, or the crank turned, its not going to matter where the rods just so long as they installed properly. Really the only time rods become critical to be marked, is if you are just doing a rering job and replacing bearings without machining the rods or crank.

 

[crazy4offroad]

I like you idea C4 about the stamps.

Yeah I was gonna say I didn't invent that idea lol it was shown to me by a machinist. You can also take a small chisel and underline the numbers to show their orientation, since an 8 is the same upside down/right side up. Just have all your numbers point in one direction, like the top of the number towards the front of the engine, and put the underline at the bellhousing end of the number.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yes, I use the #'s myself. About a year or so ago, I bought these bigger # stamps at HF on sale for some crazy $2.99. Everyone who builds motors needs a set of these. I have used stamps for years. I'd also stamp a code on transmissions I built for warranty purposes, identification purposes and description of what I did to it. This way if someone brought me a transmission, I tear it down and the code didn't show up, then we have a problem.

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-1-8-eighth-inch-steel-letter-number-stamping-set-800.html

 

[89Suburban]

Yes, I use the #'s myself. About a year or so ago, I bought these bigger # stamps at HF on sale for some crazy $2.99. Everyone who builds motors needs a set of these. I have used stamps for years. I'd also stamp a code on transmissions I built for warranty purposes, identification purposes and description of what I did to it. This way if someone brought me a transmission, I tear it down and the code didn't show up, then we have a problem.

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-1-8-eighth-inch-steel-letter-number-stamping-set-800.html

****, I'll order a set.

Ok, got the money ready last night for the down payment. I WAS all excited to see the motor this morning.

 

[89Suburban]

So this morning I left a little early to swing over to the U-Pull it to check the motor out and I jawdropped. Fukin thing was a major POS. I think it had more oil on the outside than the inside did. Had air injection, accesories and pulleys didn't match. Manifolds were rusted POS's.

No way this was going to be a drop in motor.

 

[89Suburban]

I told them FORGET IT.

 

[89Suburban]

As I was leaving this pulled in and parked.

 

[towman]

i would consider that to be a core motor, would not be putting in anything i own with out a tear down, you were smart to walk away

 

[Old77]

That sucks dude!!!!

 

[89Suburban]

Well, I got all pissed off, and headed over to the scrap yard where I seen that Blazer for sale, remember that one I posted, the red and silver one? I was going to see if I could buy the motor out of that. I got there and they already sold the truck complete already.

So dude told me he had a 90' TBI motor still in a junked Chevy P/U that ran good, but had 180K on it. I checked it out and decided to but it. Only thing I see different is the cruise control, the exhaust manifolds are different, and it doesn't have the oil cooler diverter. He said it ran fine. Buying complete motor for $500. Picking up Saturday.

Here it is fellas:

 

[davbell22602]

Well, I got all pissed off, and headed over to the scrap yard where I seen that Blazer for sale, remember that one I posted, the red and silver one? I was going to see if I could buy the motor out of that. I got there and they already sold the truck complete already.

So dude told me he had a 90' TBI motor still in a junked Chevy P/U that ran good, but had 180K on it. I checked it out and decided to but it. Only thing I see different is the cruise control, the exhaust manifolds are different, and it doesn't have the oil cooler diverter. He said it ran fine. Buying complete motor for $500. Picking up Saturday.

Here it is fellas:

Did you get warranty with it. If not it was little high at that price. IMO

 

[Old77]

Were you able to hear this one run?