87 burb master cylinder

[Wallace6]

So I have an 87 suburban that has the metal style master cylinder. I would rather get the later plastic style since I need a new one anyway. Do these mount to the booster the same and do the brake lines still fit? Thanks

 

[Wallace6]

Btt maybe

 

[Juniork30]

If I remember correctly some 90-91 burbs had the plastic style

 

[fast 99]

Put the same one back on unless VERY positive it will work. You don't know what might or might not be different. Could be outlets, bore diameters, piston construction, travel, ect. Need to be very careful when modifying brake systems. From what I have seen aluminum masters are usually on lighter duty vehicles.

 

[bucket]

Put the same one back on unless VERY positive it will work. You don't know what might or might not be different. Could be outlets, bore diameters, piston construction, travel, ect. Need to be very careful when modifying brake systems. From what I have seen aluminum masters are usually on lighter duty vehicles.

Yep, this^^^

I will add though, both styles of master cylinders were used throughout the 80's. These trucks are old now, you might not even have the correct cylinder right now if someone already swapped it with the incorrect one. I know of many people that ditched the one with the plastic reservoir because they wanted the "beef" of the older cast iron style.

 

[fast 99]

Yep, this^^^

I will add though, both styles of master cylinders were used throughout the 80's. These trucks are old now, you might not even have the correct cylinder right now if someone already swapped it with the incorrect one. I know of many people that ditched the one with the plastic reservoir because they wanted the "beef" of the older cast iron style.

Agree, aluminum masters were used on HD trucks in the late 80's into the 90's [I owned several]. Brakes were decent but not nearly as good as the old JB 8 system.

One thing I really disliked about the aluminum masters was the lid. A few times the inner rubber seal folded allowing air and dirt in. Using Zip ties seemed to help.

 

[Keith Seymore]

Put the same one back on unless VERY positive it will work. You don't know what might or might not be different. Could be outlets, bore diameters, piston construction, travel, ect. Need to be very careful when modifying brake systems. From what I have seen aluminum masters are usually on lighter duty vehicles.

This is correct; there's a million ways for it NOT to work.

I would add some systems the front port goes to the front brakes and rear to rear; other systems the front port goes to the rear and rear to front. One more thing to look out for.

K

 

[Keith Seymore]

So I have an 87 suburban that has the metal style master cylinder. I would rather get the later plastic style since I need a new one anyway. Do these mount to the booster the same and do the brake lines still fit? Thanks

Need a bit more detail.

1/2 ton? 3/4 ton? 2wd or 4wd?

Here's some of the brake charts I have scanned ('86 should be the same) to give you an idea of the proliferation.

K

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[Keith Seymore]

Lastly - my humble opinion: I'd put the same as what's on there back on there.

When I was a brake engineer for GM I decided I wanted to go from the cast iron unit to the plastic on my drag car, for weight savings.

I tried probably a dozen different GM offerings, both obvious and obscure (including a "C car limo" master) and never loved any of them. Closest I came was L Van (aka all wheel drive Astro van) in terms of pedal feel/travel/effort, but the reservoir was so small (and angled) for the rear system I had to jack the car up in the driveway to put fluid in it.

I eventually went back to the cast iron unit just to be done with it.

K

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[Wallace6]

I appreciate the effort and I agree with kiss lol