8.5" front axle ball joints installation

[Wilfred]

I came across this torque sequence for installing my ball joints:

1. Position the knuckle and sockets to the yoke. Install new nuts finger tight to the upper (the nut with the cotter pin slot) and lower ball socket studs.
   
   
2. Push up on the knuckle (to keep the ball socket from turning in the knuckle) while tightening the lower socket retaining nut. PARTIALLY torque the lower nut to 30 ft. lbs.
   
   
3. Torque the yoke upper ball stud adjusting sleeve to 50 ft. lbs. using Spanner J-23447.
   
   
4. Torque the upper ball socket nut to 100 ft. lbs. After torquing the nut, do not loosen to install cotter pin, apply additional torque, if necessary, to align hole in stud with slot in nut. Install cotter pin.
   
   
5. Apply FINAL torque to lower nut, 70 ft. lbs.

This worked for me with a new moog ball joint. Every video or Haynes manual article I see says to torque these things to spec casually as if they just magically fit back together.

Has anyone else ever have an issue torquing their new ball joints to spec on the old chevy corporate axle? What do you folks think about the above procedure?

 

[TubeTruck]

I am currently doing the same thing and have been looking for the correct torque and sequence. I found this, which pertains to original GM factory specs. I would use this if buying OEM style ball joints.

http://chuckschevytruckpages.com/chevy_truck_4wd_front_axle_ball_joint_replacement.html

But I installed MOOG ball joins. Per their instructions you need to install the upper sleeve with a couple threads sticking out of the top, install the knuckle and torque the lower nut to 70ft-lbs. Then torque the upper sleeve to 70ft-lbs, and finally the upper nut to 100ft-lbs but continue to tighten to line up the cotter pin, do not back off the nut.

I did mine this way and had a hard time seating the ball joints so they wouldn't spin. I wound up using a deadblow sledge to seat them. One is good, easily movable but not too easy. The other is tighter than I would have liked but not so tight that I can't move it by hand.

If the ball joints you buy come with instructions I would just follow them.

 

[Wilfred]

Cool, thanks for the info.

 

[AuroraGirl]

1980 says 25 lb with fish scale should be the force to pull the hub in air one way or the other(constant force, not what is required to overcome static friction)

 

[AuroraGirl]

I came across this torque sequence for installing my ball joints:

1. Position the knuckle and sockets to the yoke. Install new nuts finger tight to the upper (the nut with the cotter pin slot) and lower ball socket studs.
   
   
2. Push up on the knuckle (to keep the ball socket from turning in the knuckle) while tightening the lower socket retaining nut. PARTIALLY torque the lower nut to 30 ft. lbs.
   
   
3. Torque the yoke upper ball stud adjusting sleeve to 50 ft. lbs. using Spanner J-23447.
   
   
4. Torque the upper ball socket nut to 100 ft. lbs. After torquing the nut, do not loosen to install cotter pin, apply additional torque, if necessary, to align hole in stud with slot in nut. Install cotter pin.
   
   
5. Apply FINAL torque to lower nut, 70 ft. lbs.

This worked for me with a new moog ball joint. Every video or Haynes manual article I see says to torque these things to spec casually as if they just magically fit back together.

Has anyone else ever have an issue torquing their new ball joints to spec on the old chevy corporate axle? What do you folks think about the above procedure?

"Push up on the knuckle (to keep the ball socket from turning in the knuckle) while tightening the lower socket retaining nut. PARTIALLY torque the lower nut to 30 ft. lbs." my 1980 manual for ball joints(not king pin axle) says 70ft lbs(95 nm)

my manual says the enxt step is your step #3, which is correct torque.

it says nothing about partial torque or retightening. that could be a bulletin from GM or someone elses work. but it also changes the order of the directions, so not sure.

then at the end of the section under front torques, it says upper 100 ft lb and more if needed to align cotter, lower 80 plus more to align cotter.

 

[Wilfred]

Love the conflicting information. I wonder about alignment considerations with thin install of the new ball joint. There is typically an adjustment cone that is not symmetrical that you rotate to adjust the camber but I wasn't sure how to check it for the correct position and now the tire is wearing on the outside.

 

[ucs75]

But I installed MOOG ball joins. Per their instructions you need to install the upper sleeve with a couple threads sticking out of the top, install the knuckle and torque the lower nut to 70ft-lbs. Then torque the upper sleeve to 70ft-lbs, and finally the upper nut to 100ft-lbs but continue to tighten to line up the cotter pin, do not back off the nut.

I did mine this way and had a hard time seating the ball joints so they wouldn't spin.

I think you are referring to this line from the instructions:

14. IMPORTANT Thoroughly clean all rust and dirt from the threads of the axle yoke. Thread the new adjusting sleeve into the axle yoke until approximately two threads are exposed to facilitate installation of the ball joint tapered stud.

It's important to note that this is followed by Torque the Lower Ball Joint, and then.....

Torque the adjusting sleeve in the axle yoke to 70 ft. lbs. using an appropriate spanner socket. Sleeve should go below the top surface of the axle yoke.

[ https://www.moogparts.com/pdf/installation-documents/balljoints/AXCF4319().pdf ]


Per Moog,
You would install the adjusting sleeve, torque the lower ball joint to 70ft-lbs, torque the sleeve to 70 ft-lbs, and then torque the upper ball joint to 100 ft-lbs. Then align the castle nut with a cotter-pin hole by continuing to tighten (never loosen).