'79 Camaro Restomod

[bucket]

love it!!!!!!!!!!

been working on the TA again myself, ordered more parts as well. I've also done more interior on the truck, need to get pics and/or vids.


It looks like the wiring harness is now (or always was?) in the car? I may need to refference some of the interior plug ins for the TA. I did get the underhood harness figured out for the TA just need some ends.

The interior harness is in, however it was when you left off. I think all I've undone is the plugs that go to the steering column and the brake pedal.

 

[cstew47]

Subbed. I vote 383 stroker/M22/4.11. Something that pulls to 7k rpm

Agree wholeheartedly. A BBC is pretty heavy for that car. A 383 opens a lot of possibilities for HP and TQ.

 

[bucket]

Agree wholeheartedly. A BBC is pretty heavy for that car. A 383 opens a lot of possibilities for HP and TQ.

350/T56/3.90 will have to do for now, lol.

 

[bucket]

The other day, I was dismantling an '88 Chevy Celebrity that I got for parts many years ago. When I removed the brake booster, an idea smacked me right in the face. Figuratively, lol.

You must be registered for see images attach

The rusty one is the original booster from the car. The nice gold one is a new restoration type booster that was damaged in shipping. The black painted booster is a dual diaphragm type from the Celebrity. Notice that it has convenient mounting studs.

So I first cut the eyelet off the Celebrity pushrod.

You must be registered for see images attach

Then began harvesting parts from the new (damaged) booster.

You must be registered for see images attach

And boom!

You must be registered for see images attach

All that's left is to get a tall 7/16" nut to couple the pushrod and then blast it with a few spot welds.

Now, I could have accomplished the very same thing with a Summit universal booster, F-body mounting brackets and a pushrod kit... but I had all these parts already and it saved me close to 200 bucks.

 

[Swims350]

ok that's weird I'm doing my booster right now as well.As a matter of fact I came on to give you a warning, do it with the front end off!!!!!!!!

I've got 2 deep cuts on my left forearm, couple on my knuckles on that hand, tons of cuss words, broke back, sore arm and worn out hand later, wished I had done it with at least the fender off.

I wanted that style of booster, in chrome. I was gonna go ebay but eh money and all the adjustments etc.they have I could screw up.

I went with an sks booster from rockauto, was 90 not counting shipping and tax and a raybestos master from them as well for like 20 and change excluding tax/shipping costs. Now I need a prop.valve and bracket, the TA OG one is rusted BAD!!!!! I was going to use the c10 one but can't find it have to look again.

I had to open some holes up on my new booster to make it fit on the studs and all the way back as well.

 

[bucket]

Yeah, once I got the brackets mounted to the booster, I found that the holes needed some work so it would fit the studs in the pedal assembly. The new replacement booster would not have fit either, without hogging some holes.

 

[bucket]

Here's a better shot of where the trans tunnel needs enlarged for clearance.

You must be registered for see images attach

And here's where I hacked out a large portion of the floor crossmember. I might need to remove more for sufficient u-joint clearance. I'm not worried about floor rigidity, DSE subframe connectors will take care of that.

You must be registered for see images attach

The auto console can be used, but it needs moved forward compared to stock. Luckily, GM included a handy dandy 2nd set of mounts that will make that modification very easy.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Oh yeah, and here's the Hooker shifter hump that is meant for T56 swaps into the F-body.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Swims350]

damn I need some interior. Mines upstairs in the master bedroom. The glass is still in the attic.

That console to me actually looks to be in a better position to rest your elbow then before.

 

[bucket]

Well, it's been over a year so I guess it's time for a "no real update" update. Earlier this year, I put the car together enough to be a roller again. That was needed for a move to a new (to us) house. Since then, I have been busy with work, house, barn and the normal family stuff. The only wrenching has been to keep the running vehicles running, mostly.

Here's how the car looked when it came to the new place. All that has happened is a new coat of dust.

You must be registered for see images attach

Today I aquired a set of wheels to use for mockup purposes. They will be useful for figuring out the backspacing I need and to determine what may or may not need modified in the wheel tubs for clearance. They are Centerlines from '95 and look extremely dated. But the fronts are 9.5" wide and the rears are 11", with a 275 and a 315 tire. I'm really hoping I can make those widths fit.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Strick]

That's a great looking car to start with. I like the Fisher T-Tops and 78-79 Z28 hood. They are easily made into functional hoods. I just sold a 76 that I've been working on for a couple years that had that same hood. I had a really nice 80 Z28 that I sold a few years ago too. It was a T-top car like the 79 you have.

 

[Swims350]

it's junk bring it back to me and I'll let it sit around my garage for years lol

 

[bucket]

That's a great looking car to start with. I like the Fisher T-Tops and 78-79 Z28 hood. They are easily made into functional hoods. I just sold a 76 that I've been working on for a couple years that had that same hood. I had a really nice 80 Z28 that I sold a few years ago too. It was a T-top car like the 79 you have.

Yeah, the hood I got hasn't been opened up below the scoop yet, but the scoop itself has been modified for functional use. Once it's running and moving under it's own power, I'll figure out exactly how I want to tackle the air induction. I could use an '80-'81 scoop with the flapper, but I have always liked the look of the '79 scoop.

 

[Swims350]

Yeah, the hood I got hasn't been opened up below the scoop yet, but the scoop itself has been modified for functional use. Once it's running and moving under it's own power, I'll figure out exactly how I want to tackle the air induction. I could use an '80-'81 scoop with the flapper, but I have always liked the look of the '79 scoop.

they make kits to have a flapper in the back of ta scoops like motor etc. might work for yours. take some steel or abs or whatever you choose for a flap door.

 

[Midnightmoon]

it's junk bring it back to me and I'll let it sit around my garage for years lol

Or, he could just drop it off here. I've got the space.....LOL

 

[scrap--metal]

Cool car, Andy. Just read through the whole thread.

But the fronts are 9.5" wide and the rears are 11", with a 275 and a 315 tire. I'm really hoping I can make those widths fit.

I doubt you'll be able to get 275's up front. Especially since you've gone with drop springs (good decision). I had 245/45R17's on the front of my '79 and they would rub bottom rear portion of the wheel well at the steering locks. They might've rubbed the top edge of the wheel well on really big dips too, but it's been years since I had those tires so I can't remember for sure. A little less back spacing might have fixed it though??? 235/45's I currently have on the fronts are no issue. Next set I'm going to try 245/40R17s up front. I can't remember how wide my wheels are at the moment. 315's will be the biggest you can fit in back, and will require the seatbelt hump to be smacked in and likely the quarter lip to be rolled.

Something to look for... These cars regularly have the rear axel biased to one side. I don't think it was intentional, just a product of the quality control at the time, or lack thereof. The rear end in my car is off center by at least a 1/4" or more. Take a look at how your axel sits before you get too giddy about 315's out back. They might fit well on one side but rub on the other. Some guys on another forum have been anal enough to cut the perches and reweld them just to get the axels centered. I envy their ambition, but my car is driving and I don't like taking it apart for nit picky things like that.

A couple other things... Get the '78/'79 Z/28 fender vents. They look better than the '80/'81 vents IMO, and they're correct for your '79. Also, FYI, Classic Industries reproduces the '79 grill emblem now. No need to run the incorrect one ('78?) you have shown in post #36 when the funds are available.