77 K10 LS Swap

[rpcraft]

Nice!!!

 

[Madhorn]

Spoke with a drive shaft shop in Texarkana today. Described the remaining vide I have along with some details of the looseness/slack I am seeing in the splined slip joint. They claim that is my problem. I hope to have time soon to run the rear drive shaft to them and have it checked out. A rebuild should be approximately $200, a custom built unit $400ish.

 

[rpcraft]

FWIW if you are running the stock driveshaft you probably want to upgrade to something larger and aluminum. Do a search on driveshaft critical speed and you will learn why.

 

[hoagster]

They fit great!!!! The only mod was I had to cut a small ear off the bell housing. Cleared the manual clutch linkage with out issue and no issue with front drive shaft. O2 sensors fit great as well.

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which bell housing did you use to mate to your NV4500, will it work with a SM465?

 

[Madhorn]

The 465 bell housing will not work. I ordered mine from High Impact PN 712576. It’s made by Advance Adapters. You can also use the GM bell housing that used with the NV4500 in 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. Don’t know the PN.

 

[Madhorn]

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New drive shaft. The old one was in bad shape. New one is the correct length and diameter. Last thing I need to address is the pinion angle. 4 degrees at Transfercase 9.5 at pinion. Need 6 degree shim.

 

[Madhorn]

With the new drive shaft installed the vibe has gotten much better. Still a bit there at 60+. Just ordered a Warrior 6 degree steel shim kit, a bit pricey, but I did not want to take a chance with aluminum shims. Especially with that much of degree. This should take are of the drive line vibe.

 

[Madhorn]

6 degree shims installed. They seem to have done the trick. I only run the truck for about 10 miles, but everything seems much smother. The operating angles (10ish degrees) are still a bit high, but should work. I am told that I will ware out u joints quicker. Will put some miles on it next week.

 

[Madhorn]

Change to the change. The degree wedge/shim didn’t work as well as I first thought. On the pinion/axle side in swapped the 6 degree wedge for a 4 degree wedge making the pinion angle 5 degrees. On the transfer case side I lowered the cross member an additional 3/4 in an inch making the yoke angle 5 degrees. The drive shaft sits at 12 degrees. This makes the working angles of both u-joints 7 degrees. I was able to comfortably run the truck at 65-70 mph. Hopefully this will be the end of the drive line vibe issues for a while.

 

[Madhorn]

Next up is sound system and exhaust. Here are a couple pics of the axle wedge swap.

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[Madhorn]

Got board today and decided I needed a place for a beverage and my wallet. This is what I came up with.

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[Madhorn]

I may not be alone in this, so feel compelled to share this idea. Saw a short video on YouTube today on how to fix door strikers so that slamming doors to shut them is no longer an issue. First off I had no idea that the door strikers had a plastic bushing. Of coarse mine have been missing for the 19 years I have owned my 77. In the video the guy takes a price of 1/2 inch PEX tube, cuts it length, then cuts a slit down the side then puts it around the door striker. Problem solved. Less than $3. Never knew my doors could close so well.

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[rpcraft]

I may not be alone in this, so feel compelled to share this idea. Saw a short video on YouTube today on how to fix door strikers so that slamming doors to shut them is no longer an issue. First off I had no idea that the door strikers had a plastic bushing. Of coarse mine have been missing for the 19 years I have owned my 77. In the video the guy takes a price of 1/2 inch PEX tube, cuts it length, then cuts a slit down the side then puts it around the door striker. Problem solved. Less than $3. Never knew my doors could close so well.

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Now I have an excuse to buy the PEX to do the airlines in my garage, lol.

 

[RoryH19]

I found the replacement bushings at classic parts, but you have to pay shipping.
https://www.classicparts.com/1973-91-Door-Striker-Bushing/productinfo/18-638/
I've also seen a youtube video were someone used electrical tape. Not a long term solution but it does work.

 

[rpcraft]

I found the replacement bushings at classic parts, but you have to pay shipping.
https://www.classicparts.com/1973-91-Door-Striker-Bushing/productinfo/18-638/
I've also seen a youtube video were someone used electrical tape. Not a long term solution but it does work.

FWIW you can go down to a local autozone or other name brand store and they are in the help section, usually right next to the door pin repair kit. Usually if you need one then you need the other. I think we all know there is a replacement part, just pex is cheap(er) and probably will have the same life expectency, in case you happen to have some kind of plumbing project going on.