"77" Chevy K10 SWB restoration, need help

[HotRodPC]

The good 205 too without the slip yoke. I've got a few more springs if you need some.

 

[Swims350]

ok I never saw a 205 in person, but have seen a 203 and know it's a full time cast iron deal. the 205 is part time cast iron aint it? I know everyone seems to want a 205. They had a 205 with a slip yoke too? I know the 203 we had was non slip yoke too.

 

[HotRodPC]

ok I never saw a 205 in person, but have seen a 203 and know it's a full time cast iron deal. the 205 is part time cast iron aint it? I know everyone seems to want a 205. They had a 205 with a slip yoke too? I know the 203 we had was non slip yoke too.

Yep there is a 205 with a slip yoke output housing. I'd have it too, just that the bolt on yoke is a better unit. I'd take a 205 anyway I could get one. They are also cast iron, and are gear to gear driven rather than a chain belt driven like the 203, 208 and 241. Certainly the strongest unit, but only a 1.96:1 crawl ratio in 4Low. Which is fine with me.

 

[crazy4offroad]

I wish it was the "good" one. It has the 27-spline output shafts for the front and rear yokes. The best has 32-splines, which means mainstream aftermarket parts manufacturers make chromoly yokes, with 1350 or 1410 u-joint size. That's what I'd like to find, better than the 3R front and 1310 rear I have now.

 

[HotRodPC]

I wish it was the "good" one. It has the 27-spline output shafts for the front and rear yokes. The best has 32-splines, which means mainstream aftermarket parts manufacturers make chromoly yokes, with 1350 or 1410 u-joint size. That's what I'd like to find, better than the 3R front and 1310 rear I have now.

True, but can't you change out the output shafts in these to make the splines and yokes you want? I have not researched them enought to know for sure if you'd have to change the output housings too though. Its my understanding there is a wealth of aftermarket parts for converting 205's to whatever you want. I'd imagine its not real cheap though. And I've never heard of anyone breaking a 205 and many have broke 208's and 241's. I just think for what I'd be doing, a cast iron gear driven unit is going to be fine no matter the outputs. I'm sure with a big enough tire and enough hp/torque you can break a 205 too.

 

[Swims350]

yea the 86 we had, it had a 208 in it, got a th400 and t-case which was a 203, and then my 88 has a 241 in it. The 32 spline would be the ones from a th400 and the 27's would be th350 or 700r4, which would have to be 350 if stock because didn't all the 700r4's get 208's? except for newer which would be 241's I guess.

 

[crazy4offroad]

The main reason I would like to upgrade the u-joints is I have toasted so many in the last year, it's rediculous. From what I've heard, they are mainly found in Ford 205s. There's also the circular pattern I'd like to find. With a lifted truck you can "clock" your t-case. In other words, unbolt it from the adapter, and turn it to the next set of holes. This sets your front output lower to help alleviate a steep front driveshaft angle.

 

[HotRodPC]

yea the 86 we had, it had a 208 in it, got a th400 and t-case which was a 203, and then my 88 has a 241 in it. The 32 spline would be the ones from a th400 and the 27's would be th350 or 700r4, which would have to be 350 if stock because didn't all the 700r4's get 208's? except for newer which would be 241's I guess.

I do beleive you are correct. But I am about certain the 32 spline can also be made to work with some SM465's too.

 

[HotRodPC]

The main reason I would like to upgrade the u-joints is I have toasted so many in the last year, it's rediculous. From what I've heard, they are mainly found in Ford 205s. There's also the circular pattern I'd like to find. With a lifted truck you can "clock" your t-case. In other words, unbolt it from the adapter, and turn it to the next set of holes. This sets your front output lower to help alleviate a steep front driveshaft angle.

Now the clock idea, does sound like a cool plan and makes sense to hell and back. That's not gonna help in the rear much though. Although in the rear, you can have your spring perches cut off, reindexed and welded back on. I just prefer to go long bed and avoid that rear problem, not to mention the Long beds are alot cheaper to buy.

 

[crazy4offroad]

The rear shaft is almost 3x longer than the front, so u-joint angle is not as big of a problem, up to 6" lift, for the rear. Clocking the t-case for the front also requires crossmemer modification or fabrication.

 

[Swims350]

lol yea lb's are cheap. I forgot about the sm465's.

As for clocking I too have heard numerous times on clocking them and makes good sense to me. I just never got to work on them much or had alot of experience on 4x4's. We only owned one other then the one I got now that I was old enough and big enough to work on or help with.

What was this thread about again lol.

 

[HotRodPC]

Here's a Tcase for you C4. I am not impressed with his price. He has had this listed for several months. I agree, he spent alot on it. Once you hear the words Advance and Transfer in the same sentence, you better grab a hold of your wallet, cuz its about to get emptied out.

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/2106881923.html

 

[HotRodPC]

lol yea lb's are cheap. I forgot about the sm465's.

As for clocking I too have heard numerous times on clocking them and makes good sense to me. I just never got to work on them much or had alot of experience on 4x4's. We only owned one other then the one I got now that I was old enough and big enough to work on or help with.

What was this thread about again lol.

Same here. Worked on many many things, but rarely 4x4's other then to R&R a trans and rebuild it, but never modifying. But, I have done quite a bit of research in the last couple years and starting to catch on.

I like the clock idea, but makes me wonder how you'd handle the shift linkage since its obvioulsy gonnna be alot lower too, so you'd obvioulsy have to twin stick it, and those sticks would have an awful long throw by the time they got up in the cab.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Here's a Tcase for you C4. I am not impressed with his price. He has had this listed for several months. I agree, he spent alot on it. Once you hear the words Advance and Transfer in the same sentence, you better grab a hold of your wallet, cuz its about to get emptied out.

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/2106881923.html

That one says 32-spline input, which means it mates to an automatic. The 32-spline I'm talking about is actually on the output yokes. I read some about the LoMax kit on their site. You not only get the gearsets, but you also get a main case, since the gears are bigger they need machine work. You basically tear yours apart and rebuild it in their case. The cool part is, it has the circular bolt patter AND the "racetrack" pattern for bolting to the trans adapter. So if you found another adapter you could still do the clock. I've also read of "clock rings" from AA so you could do this on any t-case. The shifter wouldnt change, since it pivots on the trans adapter. The rods that go to the t-case might need to be longer though.

And yeah we have gottan WAYYYY of topic here.

 

[HotRodPC]

Also on that clock plan, aren't Fords driver side drop???