700R4 Information Thread

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NickTransmissions

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This is the transmission that I bought. With a 2,200 stall converter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/175836827581 I can reach out to them tomorrow and find out what style TCC kit it came with. And I already bought the trans cooler, so I’m still gonna install it anyways.

Haven’t even started to venture down the wheels and tires road yet… sooo much out there to choose from.

I haven’t fired up the new engine yet. Installed roller rockers on it right after I sat the engine down in the truck. So I’ve gotta adjust the valves and finish up all the other odds and ends before firing it up. Just got done installing all new gauges and wiring them up. Plus stripping all the extra junk off the engine harness and putting new loom on it. Getting pretty close to the first time turning it over. So once it’s running I will make sure to figure out how to do the pressure test and adjust the TV cable.

Also, I just thought about it. Can I just fill the trans with fluid. Or is there a certain way I should go about it…?? Thanks!!! So informative.
Follow these instructions once you have filled the trans to capacity (700r4 w/stock pan should take 10-11.5 quarts, not counting cooler capacity).

Look at the first digit of the number stamped into the case on the rear passenger side of the trans, right above the pan and let me know what it is. Then tell me if there's a large upside down "U"-shaped crease cast into the passenger side of the trans that runs between the two cooler line fitting locations.

Here's a picture of what im referring to:
You must be registered for see images attach

Those two pieces of information will tell me what year 700R4 you have.

Mad Dog should have supplied some paperwork and parts if they installed an internal-external TCC lock up kit as half the kit has to be installed in the transmission. If you have an early 700 (82-87) they may have used a mechanical lock up kit. If so, no other TCC kit is needed.

You will need to make a decision on tire size before you choose a final drive ratio.
 

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Follow these instructions once you have filled the trans to capacity (700r4 w/stock pan should take 10-11.5 quarts, not counting cooler capacity).

Look at the first digit of the number stamped into the case on the rear passenger side of the trans, right above the pan and let me know what it is. Then tell me if there's a large upside down "U"-shaped crease cast into the passenger side of the trans that runs between the two cooler line fitting locations.

Here's a picture of what im referring to:
You must be registered for see images attach

Those two pieces of information will tell me what year 700R4 you have.

Mad Dog should have supplied some paperwork and parts if they installed an internal-external TCC lock up kit as half the kit has to be installed in the transmission. If you have an early 700 (82-87) they may have used a mechanical lock up kit. If so, no other TCC kit is needed.

You will need to make a decision on tire size before you choose a final drive ratio.
Here’s a pic of the transmission. Don’t see the “upside down u”. And I think they told me they would sell me the TCC kit separately or something. I didn’t know what it was at the time so I just said no and didn’t ask anything else about it. Until I started researching it just recently.
 

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NickTransmissions

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Here’s a pic of the transmission. Don’t see the “upside down u”. And I think they told me they would sell me the TCC kit separately or something. I didn’t know what it was at the time so I just said no and didn’t ask anything else about it. Until I started researching it just recently.
Looks like a pre-auxiliary valve body unit. Ask them if they installed a mechanical lock up kit in the valve body.

If they didn't and it still has the two aluminum slugs installed in the TCC control valve bore location, as many of those came from the factory, you can install a Transgo or Superior Technologies mechanical lock up kit in place of those slugs. The kits each come with several springs of different stiffness. The stiffer the spring, the higher in terms of road speed it locks up. I always install the stiffest spring to keep it out lock up until the vehicle is moving at least 50 mph...
 

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Making sure I'm not overlooking something obvious-
My TCC brake switch is starting to fail. Currently it is hooked to the cruise control vacuum brake switch. (I don't have cruise control anymore) I know the circuit must be opened when brake is pressed (opposite of brake lights). Wouldn't a 4 terminal brake light(cruise control) switch work? Or is there another switch that is preferred?

sorry the question might be slightly off topic-
 

NickTransmissions

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Good question - hopefully someone else can chime in as I don't do anything with the vehicles themselves, my work is entirely bench/carry out but I would imagine any brake or similar switch could work for what you're trying to accomplish. But that's really just a guess at this point.
 

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What's your opinion on Alto Power Pack vs Borg Warner High Energy (with 7 frictions) in the 3-4 stack for a race application?
 

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Nick, 3 Questions that I am curious about...

Are the speedometer housings all the same on the 700r4?

Original slip yokes have a hole on them and the aftermarket does not. If the trans is leaking out the slip yoke hole, and you weld it up/ swap it out, will you cause damage?

Is it worthwhile to seek out a late "K" case to use as a core in a performance 2wd application as it has the thicker mounting bosses and braces to the cover?


Thank you for your time to post this type of information and answer questions.
 

NickTransmissions

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What's your opinion on Alto Power Pack vs Borg Warner High Energy (with 7 frictions) in the 3-4 stack for a race application?
I like Raybestos Blue Plates for full race; I don't use the Alto Reds too much. Either Alto's or Borg Warner's high energy max pack/power pack modules will work nicely in a street/strip application.
 

NickTransmissions

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Nick, 3 Questions that I am curious about...

Are the speedometer housings all the same on the 700r4?

Original slip yokes have a hole on them and the aftermarket does not. If the trans is leaking out the slip yoke hole, and you weld it up/ swap it out, will you cause damage?

Is it worthwhile to seek out a late "K" case to use as a core in a performance 2wd application as it has the thicker mounting bosses and braces to the cover?


Thank you for your time to post this type of information and answer questions.
Speedo housings vary based on drive/driven gear tooth count combinations; there's two that I'm aware of: one for 34-39 tooth driven gears and one for 40-45 tooth driven gears. Not sure whether welding or not would cause issues but I'm inclined to think not assuming the weld was done properly. "K" cases are good foundations for any serious street/strip, off-road or heavy duty rigs. Standard cases are also fine for street/strip performance but if swinging for the fences, I'd build off a K case...
 

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Nick,
When does your book debut?
 

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Speedo housings vary based on drive/driven gear tooth count combinations; there's two that I'm aware of: one for 34-39 tooth driven gears and one for 40-45 tooth driven gears. Not sure whether welding or not would cause issues but I'm inclined to think not assuming the weld was done properly. "K" cases are good foundations for any serious street/strip, off-road or heavy duty rigs. Standard cases are also fine for street/strip performance but if swinging for the fences, I'd build off a K case...
Thank you, exactly what I was looking for!
I was told previously that the speedo housings were different based on year but couldn't find anything that supported that. My trans is leaking at the speedo cable and there is a ratio adapter on there. I was going to swap the gears out to match the tire size/ gears and remove the ratio adapter and put a new housing on. Basically eliminate 2 issues at once. I suspect the trans came out of a Camaro with 26-27" tall tires and went into a truck with 30 inch tires so they installed the adapter.

My question on welding wasn't about strength or quality but was told by multiple people that eliminating the hole whether by welding or replacing with an aftermarket slip yoke would increase pressures in the trans and cause it to leak. Coincidentally, once I welded up the weep hole, my trans started leaking at the speedo housing.
 

NickTransmissions

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Thank you, exactly what I was looking for!
I was told previously that the speedo housings were different based on year but couldn't find anything that supported that. My trans is leaking at the speedo cable and there is a ratio adapter on there. I was going to swap the gears out to match the tire size/ gears and remove the ratio adapter and put a new housing on. Basically eliminate 2 issues at once. I suspect the trans came out of a Camaro with 26-27" tall tires and went into a truck with 30 inch tires so they installed the adapter.

My question on welding wasn't about strength or quality but was told by multiple people that eliminating the hole whether by welding or replacing with an aftermarket slip yoke would increase pressures in the trans and cause it to leak. Coincidentally, once I welded up the weep hole, my trans started leaking at the speedo housing.
You're welcome. Yep, putting the correct housing and gear set w/a new o-ring should solve those problems for you.

Regarding the yoke, I must have misunderstood...Can't really speak to that one way or another because I don't get involved in the transmission's removal/reinstallation and can't say whom amongst my 700R4 / 4L60E customers have aftermarket yokes that may or may not have caused leaks in the rear of the transmission.

Perhaps someone else with more expertise in driveline components can better answer it for you.
 

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When it comes to TCC I get confused because there is roughly 23 internal wiring types. The 4 prong connector- you could have anywhere from one to four wires. Some use ECM, ground, etc. Do you deal with the internal wiring when you rebuild a transmission? I included images to help explain. At the top right of the images notice the 3-4 prongs labeled differently-A,B&D. For example my trans is stamped 2KJM140A which tells me Its a 1992 wire type 18 (2nd image-ecm). Its a rebuilt trans so it could be wired differently than what it is stamped. My truck is an 85 - no ecm K10. A question for those who understanding wiring for the TCC- wouldn't the "internal wire types" determine how you would have to wire externally for it to work correctly?

or am I overthinking everything?
 

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NickTransmissions

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When it comes to TCC I get confused because there is roughly 23 internal wiring types. The 4 prong connector- you could have anywhere from one to four wires. Some use ECM, ground, etc. Do you deal with the internal wiring when you rebuild a transmission? I included images to help explain. At the top right of the images notice the 3-4 prongs labeled differently-A,B&D. For example my trans is stamped 2KJM140A which tells me Its a 1992 wire type 18 (2nd image-ecm). Its a rebuilt trans so it could be wired differently than what it is stamped. My truck is an 85 - no ecm K10. A question for those who understanding wiring for the TCC- wouldn't the "internal wire types" determine how you would have to wire externally for it to work correctly?

or am I overthinking everything?
I don't get deep into the weeds with the wiring beyond simply installing the harness. However your transmission shouldn't have anything electrical going to the transmission as your transmission's valve body has a mechanical TCC command valve train installed from the factory. All 82-E87 700R4s have this valve train (or placeholder aluminum slugs if the TCC is ECM-controlled) in the valve body. The 88+ valve bodies changed and that bore cast over so it doesn't exist in those later units.

There were a few different TCC apply strategies used in the 700R4-4L60 prod run. Some had the TCC lock in 2nd gear while most had the TCC lock in third and forth. Consequently, there were a few different variations when it came to internal wiring harnesses as well as pressure switch configurations as the harness, pressure switches and TCC solenoid would all work together with the external harness, brake light switch, etc to properly control the transmission's torque converter clutch.

I have a 700r4 Valve Body Differences video where you can see the various iterations throughout the years of 700R4 and I touch on the pressure switch changes made over those years.
 

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