454 upgrade

[74 Shortbed]

Turbos are where it's at these days. Or even a Procharger. Blowers are old school these days.

Or use a screw type blower, they don't go away on the top like a roots type does..

 

[74 Shortbed]

A lot of reading out there says 2 bolt blocks better if you spade em

That's converting them to 4 bolt with center splayed caps, a 2 bolt is stronger because you don't have material gone from the outer bolts on a 4 bolt, which won't be used anyways..

 

[AzGeo]

I meant 15 degrees yet still having down sides obviously, its not the optimal way to run the motor yet it'll work in a situation in which the injection system cannot be used, the injection system will not be ran off of vacuum rather a tps so its going off of throttle position. And I'm not gonna be getting 600 HP I know that I think that might have been someone else's post. I'd be getting mid 500s and I have a lunati voodoo not some thumpr pos.

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I'm still trying to understand what you are trying to do, and yes I may have gotten the "Thumper Cam" from another thread, but .....?

Is this going to be an "off road/race" vehicle 90% and 10% serious race truck ?

I don't see why you would STOP at just 11.0 to 1 with oval port heads, while doing all the trick additives to make it live .

IMO, normally aspirated motors "work the hardest" at making higher power levels, and it always includes lots of high RPMs .

IMO, making normally aspirated power you may get away with 28 degrees (total) spark advance on a closed chamber head (more quench), but an open chamber head will not live very long at 30 degrees and would be more happy at a minimum of 32 degrees total .

YES, you could richen up the A/F to where it will not die, but it won't make power there .

I'm always ready to learn, show us how it all goes together, and how it runs .

Good luck .

 

[cisco8604]

Also would be good to know your budget. With the heads you have, easiest path to 600hp would be a blower with about 9.5:1 compression on the motor.
I have been down that path with my camaro and was pretty happy with it. Ran a 750 carb if I remember correctly

My budget is roughly 3000.-10,000


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[cisco8604]

Nothing wrong with turbos, I'm working on one now with a good friend of mine(engine builder)getting a customer's boat ready for a ski race coming up next week, and they're great for dual purpose. BUT, there's nothing like a blower for that instant power, or the sound for that matter.

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That’s badass


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[yevgenievich]

With that budget you can go either of the three routes.
Either head/cam/intake/carb for NA power
Weiand 6-71/carb for blower equiped
Or a custom turbo set up

My budget is roughly 3000.-10,000


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[gpmorgan]

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ml...MIsoGioo6w1gIVUbXACh2Ayw6qEAQYAiABEgKQkPD_BwE

 

[Honky Kong jr]

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ml...MIsoGioo6w1gIVUbXACh2Ayw6qEAQYAiABEgKQkPD_BwE

No fuss no muss just put it in and go with a warranty.

 

[AzGeo]

What I read about that motor showed a pretty big cam for a street rod .

"Just throw it in" ........ Yeah .

 

[Honky Kong jr]

What I read about that motor showed a pretty big cam for a street rod .

"Just throw it in" ........ Yeah .

That cam is feeding a lot of inches. Lift an duration is somewhat proportional to displacement. My BB 407 is @.050 243 and .590 lift. When you see cams in the .900" lift area on BBs thats huge lol

 

[AzGeo]

That cam is feeding a lot of inches. Lift an duration is somewhat proportional to displacement. My BB 407 is @.050 243 and .590 lift. When you see cams in the .900" lift area on BBs thats huge lol

Just seems that those kinds of numbers @ .050" off the base circle, are not going to hold much cylinder pressure under 3000 RPMs, even on 112 lobe centers .

But OK, I guess you are the expert here ...........

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Just seems that those kinds of numbers @ .050" off the base circle, are not going to hold much cylinder pressure under 3000 RPMs, even on 112 lobe centers .

But OK, I guess you are the expert here ...........

By no means am I an expert. My cam is pretty radical for my displacement, but it's not a "street truck" I'm sure that 540 probably makes that peak power way up top and not truely useable for street but that's a big hole to fill and

 

[AzGeo]

I understand that it's a "budget crate motor", but for use on the street (IMO) it does not deliver the BIG power where a street driven vehicle could use it .

Looks to me that they used a cam that worked best with their heads, which don't seem to be working all that well .
A 540 with Dart (non-CNC-345-121) aluminum heads, 9.7 to 1 and a hydraulic roller of .630/238-.630/248 on 110 @ 106, will easily pull 690 lb-ft and 740 HP with a single 1050 carb, under 6500 . (2200 to 6400)

I build them in this manner for "outdrive boats" which cannot use RPMs above 6000 for long runs, but need all the torque they can get in the mid range . Since "torque moves the load" .

At $10K the motor is "cheap" for what you are getting, but I don't agree with where it makes it's power, for street use

If you really wanted a "street beast", I'd go with an Iron headed 496, 8-71, 2 X 850, .590/240, .590/250 on 110, flat tappet cam, and be all in for around $12,500 .

Buy a used blower and have it rebuild, spend your hard earned money on the parts and combinations that give the most power WHERE YOU NEED IT, not just on the dyno .

A 7 lbs street blower will make a 496 breath like a 744 cubic inch motor (half an atmosphere more breathing) and still have a STREET-ABLE RPM and power range .

This can also be done using 91 pump gas, if you keep the heads/cooling cold enough .

If it were me, I would build this "strong, simple, street blower motor", but run a "hat" rather than carbs .

But I'm old and I don't want people looking at me go fast, so I'll keep my turbos .

 

[gpmorgan]

I think blueprint is after longevity with the warranty they offer. They advertise it as a street friendly motor. 10:1, 640lb ft. I have one of their 632s. Street use only. Dyno sheet said 803lb ft at 3800rpm. I was running 410 gear . 1 to 1 and it would break loose at 75mph. I put my 308s back in so at least I can feel the power now from 75. I'm looking at putting some street radials on it so I don't get out run while spinning front a start. I've had it in my truck since Feb and so far everything's good. When the op mentioned his budget and crate engine, this was the first thing that came to mind. I built the last engine I had in my truck . It's hard to get machine work done where I'm at. Being an otr truck driver I really don't have time either.

 

[AzGeo]

Sure, they are not building a "bomb", they want it to last and have no problems . They are a production shop, compromises are made to bring the power and the warranty in at that price . (it's good for the price, but not ideal IMO)

But I'll again say that the cam specs listed for that motor (even on 112) will begin to hold cylinder pressures at 3000, and that (to me) is not a "street motor" .

How often do "street engines" get run over 5500 or 6000 ?

How often are they run up right off idle?

I would use cam timing that makes "usable street power", and to me that's 1800 to 5800 , and have enough spring pressure to run past peak power on up to 6000 plus when needed .

If a street driven vehicle is not SCARY QUICK , who cares if it's FAST ? This ain't Bonneville .